In the US, that set up is referred to as a “three-way.“ (A dual throw switch is something else. Your original dumb master switch may have been a dual throw switch, but your Z wave model is not.)
And for the GE model that you were using, you can’t use the original dumb auxiliary switch: you have to replace both the master and the auxiliary switch. See the following threads:
(The topic title is a clickable link)
Brand new to Smartthings and trying to get some areas of the house “connected” ASAP. Most of the devices available are intuitive enough to figure out, but one area that seems to be a bit confusing is the on/off light/scene/etc. switchs that are available. I am mainly confused with the 3/4-way options, the add on switches and how these inter-operate with existing switches (if at all).
My initial understanding is that I can replace a single pole switch with something like the GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, if I want it to be able to dim the lights I need one that supporting dimming.
If I have a 3/4 way lighting setup I need to get a zwave/wireless switch that is capable of supporting 3/4 way. However does this mean I can just replace one of the existing switches with…
.
I’ve decided to put this FAQ together to help those with questions about installing GE 3-way switches.
Definitions of terms:
Line: The hot wire from the breaker (usually black)
Neutral: The return wire for circuits (usually white)
Load: The wire that will be hot when the circuit is completed to your light (usually black)
Traveler: In existing 3-way wiring, this wire toggles hot between two switches. In a smart switch 3-way configuration, a smaller charge is looped through the add-on switch.
Some things to know:
3-way wiring for smart switches is different than standard 3 way wiring.
You cannot use dumb 3-way switches with most smart switches (You must purchase the matching GE add-on switch to wire with your GE smart master switch).
If the line is wired into the light fixture, you …
1 Like