I have an Aeotec Doorbell device, but because the install location has exterior metal panels, the included doorbell button can’t transmit to the receiver. I was advised here that I could simply get a contact sensor that allows for external wiring and a standard wired doorbell button, and the button would “trigger” the sensor from open to closed. I purchased an Ecolink contact sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2XW9HB5VHKG7H&colid=2B4VWKOV2DG9P) and a wired doorbell button from Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wired-Lighted-Door-Bell-Push-Button-Mediterranean-Bronze-HB-623-02/205957987). It was my understanding that you could use a lighted button, it just wouldn’t light up (my wife really likes the look of this button). With the wires attached to the contact sensor, I can cross them and see the status go from open to closed. But as soon as I attach both wires to the button terminals, it goes to closed and does not vary when I press and release the button. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? Or is this perhaps because it is a lighted button? I’ve attached pics in case it helps diagnose. Thanks.
I use that exact contact sensor, with this button here.
To do as you describe. No problems and works great. My button also is designed to light.
I know my post doesn’t help you get yours working, just figured I’d show my equipment in case someone could see a difference, as I Know nothing about nothing and rely on luck!
Please look at this site:
Maybe off topic. But may help.
The doorbell should be just a normally open switch. I can’t see why it would not work properly unless defective. Do you have a meter you can use to test the doorbell?
Pretty sure I can get my hands on one, but I could use a little guidance as to how to use it to test the switch.
You would put the meter into continuity mode and see if it beeps when you press the button
There are different types of light up buttons, some take the power straight from the doorbell circuit, so allow a bit of power to slip through. Others have seperate power wires for the light.
If you have the former then I suspect it’s slipping through the small bit of power supplied by the sensor and thus triggering a closed response.
Suggest you place a dumb relay and power supply onto the button side of the circuit… that way you can have the button lit up and a true dry contact for the sensor.
That looks to be exactly what’s happening. I get a small reading with the button “off” and a larger reading with the button on. I will look into your suggestion, though I’ll have to work to decipher the diagram.
Glad I lucked out… my button only has the 2 terminals, but must not allow enough to leak by. Total luck, and I wouldn’t have known what to do had my setup not worked the way I wanted!
I’m starting to re-think my advice
Doorbell circuits (and the push button you chose) run on 16vac but I can’t find any dumb relays with a coil rated for 16vac… searching US sites from UK is never easy so you might have more luck than me?
Thanks everyone for the help. I went ahead and ordered a replacement button insert that is non-lighted. Hopefully it will fit as expected (both are for 5/8" holes, so we’ll see). I’ve got a light above the door where the bell is that automatically comes on when it’s dark, so really no need for an actual lighted button.
Rob, were you able to get things working with a non-lighted button? I’m about to do exactly what you were trying to do. Thanks.
@Mark, yes I was. All works well simply wiring the leads from the non-lighted doorbell button to the terminals in the contact sensor. Unless you use a custom device handler, remember that you’ll want to ring the doorbell when the contact is closed. Somewhat backward from typical contact sensor usage.