Vision Z-Wave In Wall


Not sure how useful this info is as I’m using some different hardware to control the switches, but for what it’s worth here’s a reply (in bold text below) I received from the manufacturer of my Z-wave controller RE the second switch. Looks promising for possible future updates from all software controllers…


Aeotec by Aeon Labs
20:29 (14 hours ago) to me
Hi Max,

The Z-Stick Gen5 is only hardware, this mostly has to do with the software that you are using with the Z-Stick Gen5 in this case. The software you are using will need to support the Multichannel command class and perhaps may require further development to make the switch be seen as 2.

What software are you using in this case?

There are no current firmware updates for the Gen5 Z-Stick, only drivers available currently. All new information will be on our Freshdesk solutions page.

Chris Cheng
Field Application Engineer
Aeon Labs

On Mon, 29 Feb at 2:07 PM , you wrote:
Hi Aeotec,
Awesome Z-Stick! Keep up the great work!
My Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 works fine with my 5 x Aeotec Micro Switch 2nd Edition…

BUT it will only recognize Relay #1 of my 5 x VISION Z-WAVE IN-WALL 2-RELAY SWITCHES (ZL 7432US)

Physical switching by hand of each light works perfectly for both switch 1 & 2 but only switch 1 is currently recognised/working with z-wave?

Can you please help me get the second relay to work with my Z-stick Gen5?




I feel better that I’m not the only one! Did you get it wired correctly?

I received one of these yesterday and tomorrow I am going to install it, so I was checking out the manual. What’s confusing me is that typically, at least in my house, it’s the hot that is switched to the load, not the neutral. As I look at this it seems to be the same concept. The power goes from the hot through a switch, then into this thing, then out of this thing (via yellow ad red wires) to the load. Then there is an extra hot that goes into this device unswitched (makes sense). White connects to neutral.

I think it would be less confusing if they took out the neutral side of the loads.

At least I think I have this right. We’ll see tomorrow I guess.

Hopefully it will fit into a one gang electrical box. Another thing that occurs to me is that this would work best with switches that toggle as push buttons, since on/off switches would look odd when turned off but the load is on.

No, the extra leads are for the optional manual switch. There is only one neutral, used by the relay, as it uses some power it’s self.

Black and white, self explanatory.

One is an antenna.

Two wires on the relay will go to each of the loads, the other side of the load should be connected to the circuit neutral.

The remaining two wires are connected to your manual control switches. The other side of the switch should be connected to hot wire.

There are a couple of solutions to the on/off markings problem. Euro toggles typically don’t have those markings, so if you have a more modern decor, use those. If you must have a classic toggle switch, use a 3-way, and wire it like a normal toggle. 3-ways work fine as 2-ways but they don’t have any markings.

This little gadget went in easily, worked great on the first try!

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Got it to work first time, old house with different colored wires to make it more challenging. Following to find out when the second switch will work.

Thanks for the post! I Used this handler with the Vision ZL 7432 and it works like a charm.

Is it a problem if I have a switch loop without a neutral to use a neutral from an adjacent switch in the same gang box?

Almost a year later lol still haven’t installed these…but I think the answer to my question is that it’s ok to use a neutral from an adjacent outlet (it’s not an adjacent switch actually) in the same gang box. Please correct me if I’m wrong!

IF it’s on the same breaker as the load

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Just to add to what @NomadTech comment. Apparently the vision relay has a set of dry contact inside so you could also try that if the neutral is on another branch circuit. I am Tagging @jgravert since he has details on this brand relay.

I opened one (2 relay version) the other day. No dry contacts available (that’s what I wanted) and no real good way to isolate existing ones. PCB is extremely small and crowded.

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I guess the single relay is the only one with dry contact. Thanks for providing the info with the dual relay.

Here are the inside looks

Ok here’s my crazy idea. I put the Vision Z-Wave in the fixture, since I have no neutral at the switch. But, I need a switch. So, instead of a battery powered Z-Wave or Zigbee switch, I buy a simple cheap non z-wave non-integrated low power remote relay like this one . I connect the relays together, so that when the user presses the button on the remote switch, it toggles the switch input to the Vision Z-Wave, which then turns on the light, and also communicates with the Smartthings Hub about the status of the light.

Will it work? I would be saving some money on the remote switch, and saving some hassle with batteries on the remote switch (the little battery is supposed to last 6-8 years!).

This device never reports its status. Anyone else have this issue?

I have another z-wave device (GE outdoor plug) that frequently gets disconnected from the network. Could it be the fault of this Vision module not participating in the mesh?

I have the single switch version and tried for a couple hours to get it to work. I had it where both the app and the in-wall switch would change the status of the device but the light would not turn on. My light switch has a built-in light and I know there is a separate wiring and setting for this but this also didn’t work. I even replace the wall switch with one without a light. Still no go.

Is there anyone who has the single switch version working and could you please share your wiring?


Highly doubt that’s the problem but you can disconnect the relay module, repair your mesh and see if the GE is still getting disconnect.

Read this post. Also post your wiring.

Thank you for your reply and my apology for the slow follow up. I have not been able to try it yet.

Without the green wire, would the switch still work? I thought this device would sit somewhat between the switch and the load.

The green wire is the input from the external dumb wall switch so that’s the only thing you won’t be able to do. Control the relay module with an external wall dumb switch.