Hi I tried replacing the GE12722 with the GE14291 after it stopped working. I couldn’t get the first one to work so assumed it was a bad switch and the new one doesn’t work either. I had an handy man come by and he couldn’t figure it out but I don’t think he was familiar with smart switches. I took a coupe of pictures of the wiring. Switch on left is to a different light. The one on the right is what I’m trying to setup.
When you say it doesn’t work, do you mean it doesn’t pair with the hub?
Sorry, I meant no power to the switch at all so can’t get the light to come on or manually control the switch once power is back on. I just read the FAQ and I might need to put an add on switch to the other box but only question is I didn’t need one when I had the 12722?
Is this one side of a 3-way?
Yep, that is a 3-way on the right.
AFAIK, the GE 12722 required a companion switch, the GE 12723. If your old switch didn’t have a companion, I’m surprised that both worked.
The GE 14291 does require a companion switch to work in a 3-way environment.
Agree with Bryan. You cannot just replace one side of a 3-way using GE switches.
You’ll need the matching auxiliary switch and will need to determine which box has line, which has load.
“3-WAY READY – The smart device operates perfectly on its own or seamlessly integrates into multi-switch setups with required add-on switches – models 12728 or 46200. Up to four add-on switches can be connected to the same device.”
I added the 3 way smart switch to the box shown and the add on to the other box. Still didn’t work. The add on is in another box that also has another 3 way switch controlling another light. It looks like that switch might be connected to the addon switch. Does that mine I need to also replace that 3 way switch with a smart switch and put another addon in the the 3 box?
If it doesn’t work then most likely reason is that you didn’t wire it correctly.
I don’t have any GE/Jasco switches so I can’t give detailed advice. You’ll need to look carefully at the wiring instructions from the manufacturer. Be sure you understand which box has “line” (power from the breaker) and which has “load” (wire to the lights). Both of those may be in the same box. Be aware there are several different ways to connect 3-way dumb switches. You must figure out what you started with.
If the switches you have are like most others, the primary smart switch has to be in the box with line and you’ll have to wire the add-on differently than the original dumb switch. But, again, consult the wiring diagrams that came with your switches.
FWIW, I use Zooz ZEN26 and ZEN27 switches for 3-ways wherever I can. With those models you only need to replace the switch on the “line” side and do not need to rewire or replace the dumb switch on the other end.
“Might” is very bad when working with 120v wiring. It’s really important that you completely figure out anything you mess with.
I really need to see the other switch box. Based on what I see in the picture above I suspect you have power going to the light first and then to switches. I need to see the other switch wiring to confirm. Unfortunately if this is the case your options are limited with smart switches since you don’t have enough wires.
Please post a picture of the other box so I can confirm.
Will do once I get home this evening. Appreciate all the help!
The switch on the left is a 3-way to the hallway lights. One on the right is the other switch tied to the entrance light and where I had placed that addon 12723 yesterday
Do you own a non-contact tester?
I think the black wires that are nutted together are your line, power, from the breaker. Both switches and the loads they control are on the same circuit.
If that is so, then these will be live no matter how you flip switches.
I don’t have wiring diagrams for your particular switches but other smart switches I’ve installed require the primary smart switch to be in the box with line. So you’d need to put the primary switch here and the add-on in the other box.
Post a link to the user manual for your switches.
If you don’t have one, invest in a non-contact tester. Not very expensive and safest way to test for presence of voltage.
I’m going to throw in an unsolicited and uncompensated plug for the Zooz ZEN26 from @thesmartesthouse
The ZEN26 can be installed in 3-ways without either replacing or rewiring the non-line side of the 3-way. Makes it cheaper and much easier when doing 3-ways.
Think I might have to order one from Amazon or tryout the GEmyTouchSmart switch. Also says don’t need to do an addon
I have a no touch tester and a multimeter. Let me check them both again
Got it and thank you for posting. Good news for you, you can get this working with your GE switches. You have load in the first box you posted and line in the second. Give me a few and I will post wiring instructions to get this working.
Quick question. Do you have a preference on master switch location? This could work in either box. Things to consider with answer is your zwave mesh and proximity to other switches.
Just to clarify the pictures and how I originally did it.
Blue box is where I put the main smart switch, replacing the right dumb switch and I’m the grey box I put the addon…replacing the right dumb switch but also looks like it is connected to another 3-way switch(hallway)
I’ll need to retry the multimeter again since the non contact tester is beeping on grey box too
Don’t worry about that I understand the wiring and will get you sorted.
No either location is fine because I have other ZWave plugs and switches to help repeat the signal so whichever is going to be easier