Is there any general consensus on whether the new Sonoff mini or Shelly is easier to integrate with SmartThings?
No one has confirmed the Sonoff Mini works with the current Sonoff Basic custom firmware created by erocm1231. However, I’ve read Home Assistant users were able to use the same tasmoto firmware that was written for the Sonoff Basic on the Sonoff Mini. So it has a chance of working. The Shelly 1 is twice the price, but doesn’t require custom firmware to use with Smartthings just a device handler.
This Tasmota device handler would most likely allow you to connect the Sonoff Mini to Smartthings. I just bought 12 minis so I’ll post an update when I get them up and running. They are shipping from China so it will be a few weeks. [RELEASE] Sonoff Tasmota Device Handler
i have flashed both the shelly and the sonoff mini with tasmota and they both work fine.
The are similar size but the choice should be based upon 2 other things (actually 3 thing)
- the connectors - the arrangement of the cabling is different… the switch is either live (shelly) or it is a no voltage switch line… there are pros and cons to each wiring method.
- whether you want the button on the unit and the led on the unit
- if you use a shelly with power monitoring you have extra information in same form factor
Both work and both switch you devices on and off.
I have the shelly inside a socket to control some outside items which need to be able to be controlled but I needed a waterproof box.
The sonoff mini’s ive just bought a load and about to use for lights inside the house (the aeon zwave ones were too expensive - 4x difference for the luxury of running on zwave not wifi!)
If you are using tasmota on the devices its just a case of how you will use them in the end.
Keep us updated when the sonoffs get here!
What are the pros and cons of the live vs volt-free switch wiring?
I’m using a few Fibaro switch modules at the moment (live switching). I expect Shelly live switching makes connecting up 2-way switch circuits easier? eg top and bottom of stairs.
I think live vs no voltage is a choice thing and also can depend on the country you are in.
Personally I dont have a preference, but it might be easier for some sitiuatations for live switching but i’ve found I’ve got both in use and havent really found any issues with either.
I have a two way switch on a zero volt circuit and it works fine. You just need to get your head around the circuit and connections… ie what pair makes the switch turn on and off… what pair provide power to the live feed of the thing you are switching… what happens to the neutrals.
Yeah I suppose you’re right. I looked at some diagrams and yes you just need to isolate and consider the switches a separate circuit don’t you.
Probably worth a note left in each of the switch back boxes to say they’re a low voltage setup and the location of the controller to help anyone in the future who might need to work on it!