[Solved] Light switches in Spain

smartlighting
hubv2
lights

(Pablo Valenzuela) #1

Hi all,

I’m completly new and I’m trying to build everything. I live in Spain (just in case it’s a relevant thing to say) and I would like to have the light wall switches handled by the smartthings hub

I have both single and double switch, the double ones each switch handles a different cealing lamp.

I have tried to look in the forums, but I don’t get a clear idea of several things:

  • Double light switches, like for instance the TKB TZ66D are not supported due to a hub constraint, so the hub simply doesn’t support any double switches?
  • Can anyone recomend me switches (both double if the first question is wrong, and also single), that are sold/wok in Spain? dimming would be nice but not mandatory

Thank you very much in advance


(Robin) #2

Look into the Fibaro Dimmer 2 micro modules… they go behind your existing switches, one module per switched load.


(Pablo Valenzuela) #3

First, thanks for your reply!!!

It would have to be on top or bellow in the wall, since there is no space “behind” the switch for this.

Any ideas of switch replacement?


(Robin) #4

The micro modules are tiny… how deep are your back boxes?

Also, depending on your existing wiring layout, you can often put them behind / inside the light fitting instead.

Do you have power going to the light first or to the switch first?


(Pablo Valenzuela) #5

Hi!

Once again, thanks for the reply. I’ve checked and you are correct, it fits! the images of the product are bigger (of course) but it fits.

Just to make sure. Inside there are 3 cables, that’s “ok” for 2 switches right? i saw this image

and seems so, but wanted to make sure


(Pablo Valenzuela) #6

Another question: in one room, I have 2 switches for the same light. Does this work also for this? in which one should I put it?


(Robin) #7

Your diagram above is for the dimmer 1… wire it like that and you’ll be pizza. (Unless you somehow managed to buy a dimmer 1 in which case send it back).

Number of switches connected to the dimmer 2 is not dependant on the number of wires entering the switch box. The wires between the dimmer and the switch are new wires that you need to make yourself.

You have 3 wires entering the box, assuming one is earth (ground) then you have power to the light.

Wire as follows:

If you have a 2-gang switch just connect L2 to S2 and wire the two COM terminals (on the switch) together.


(Robin) #8

For two seperate switch positions, you put the dimmer 2 in the main switch box (the one with the most wires).

Toggle switches:

.
.
Momentary Switches:


(Pablo Valenzuela) #9

I see, didn’t know I’d have to rewrite.

My current wires are like this:

(this is actually a 2 button switch for 2 different cealing lamps)

So i guess one is the ground cable and the other two are the electricity ones so I’ll have to rewire like you explained, right?


(Pablo Valenzuela) #10

(like this)


(Robin) #11

I’m sorry… I have no idea how those 3 wires can work with 2 different lights???

None are ground…

Are those switches toggle or momentary??

Are there other switches that control the same light?

You need to look at every switch position, and every light position and sketch out a full diagram of the existing layout before I can even consider giving further advice.

I think you may need to employ an electrician!


(Pablo Valenzuela) #12

I agree hahahahaha

That double switch controls 2 different lights in the room actually. every one of the 2 buttons is “on/off” for 2 lights in the same room…

I was surprised also, 3 cables 2 lamps, my idea is that 1 could be power into the switch, the other 2 would go to each lamp basically


(Robin) #13

Possible if the neutral ring goes straight to the light, but you have no ground which seems very wrong and I would have expected to see two wires the same colour??


(Pablo Valenzuela) #14

I guess, before callling an electrician, I’ll do some tests (disconnect one, then the other, etc etc)


(Robin) #15

Just sketch out the exact wiring layout (find both ends of every wire using a continuity tester).

A photo of the wires entering each light fitting would also help.


(Robin) #16

I’m guessing this is what you have (with a second light instead of a fan):

Can still be wired with two dimmer 2 modules but there will be problems:

A) your existing switch has a shared COM input so needs replacing for one that has two fully separated switches (suggest momentary / retractive switches)

B) you don’t have much room behind the switch for two modules, probably won’t fit.

C) you don’t have enough wires to put the modules in the ceiling instead.

As well as the above, you don’t have an earth which, though not required directly for the modules to work, is still unsafe!

Now if you’re not worried about earth but can’t fit two modules in the box; you could put one module in the box and one in the ceiling. You won’t however be able directly switch the ceiling module and will have to use S2 on the box module to virtually switch the ceiling one. This will introduce lag.


(Pablo Valenzuela) #17

Hey,

I consulted some other forum in Spain and they told me that the device would work great if I got a neutral cable into that box, or I placed the box in the room distribution box (every room has one here), so… thx for all the effort! really appreciate it :). I’ll post a final post confirming as soon as I test it :slight_smile:


(Robin) #18

You still only have 3 wires entering the switch box, you typically need 4 wires between switches and seperate Dimmer 2 modules, to operate two seperate lights. (2xSx & 2xS1 terminals)

I’ve never tried (and it might go bang) but it’s probably possible to wire the two Sx’s together at the two modules, letting them share a common switch wire. They are both grounded to neutral so should be ok wired this way in the distribution board.

In regards to pulling a neutral to the switch, the Dimmer 2 modules don’t require a Neutral. You just wire a small loop between the Sx and N terminals on each module. If it’s not too hard to pull the cable though, it’s certainly a bonus to have a neutral, as it reduces the chance of needing the bypass modules.

Pulling a neutral won’t however solve the biggest problem you have which is not having enough room in the switch box for two modules. If you pull the neutral and don’t need a dimming ability, you could just use the Fibaro Double Switch (FGS-223) which will control two sets of lights via one module. Also, The Double Switch already shares a common Sx so very easy to wire at your distribution board without having to hack two seperate modules together (saving the mess of pulling a neutral / unforeseen consequences).

Of course, having two Dimmer 2 modules behind the switch position will allow you to turn a 2-gang switch into a 4-gang switch. Two switches for controlling the loads and two switches for controlling scenes / other things linked to the hub. In your shoes I would chop in a deeper back box, buy a 4-gang retractive switch, and use the dimmers.


(Pablo Valenzuela) #19

Didn’t know about the neutral cable, thanks!

The product seems to work with 3 cables, look at this imagen from the manual (http://manuals.fibaro.com/double-relay-switch/)

Space can be an issue I have to still face. I think it can fit with a bit of tetris, but I can put it con the main room electric cable box

Having said that, on a couple of weeks i’ll share my result, i’ve found that one of my friends actually knows about electric systems in houses, so he’s coming by when the device arrives (21th), so I’ll be able to share the experience :slight_smile:


(Pablo Valenzuela) #20

Just to sumarize, with this schema it’s working as expected :slight_smile: