Smart Lighting Automation Constantly Needs Resetting

z-wave

#1

I am new to this. I have the Samsung Smart Hub and GE Zwave Smart switch and Smart Outlet as I need a virtual switch to control lights that are plugged into an outlet in a different room. After way too many tries the Smart Lighting Automation finally connected the two, the switch controls the outlet. However after only a few uses the pairing/connection is lost. I can still turn each device on and off via the app but the switch does not control the outlet. If I exclude the wall switch and go through the entire process again, both devices have to be in their OFF position, it will again work for a while. Is the Smart Switch defective or is this just how unreliable is the entire system? I previously had an Insteon switch and plug that communicated without a hub but the plug malfunctioned and I was assured the Samsung system was a better option which does not seem to be the case. Samsung support has nothing to offer except walking me through the same process I have been following (actually the first support person made things worse but that is off topic).


(Ray) #2

How do you tie the switches together? Syncing it with smart lighting app with a virtual switch? Smart lighting smartapp is actually the most reliable app for me. Possible it’s the switch, outlet or the app itself. Hard to say since there’s not enough info to nail it down. You can get support to look into the root cause and they should be able to find out or maybe try webCoRE.


#3

I am writing in case someone runs into the same problem and finds this on a search

The problem for me is that the wiring diagram in the package is very poorly written for one who is not an electrician or possessing those skills. Talking to telephone support for Jayco was useless as the people who answer the phone seem to know nothing about using the switch as a virtual device.

After consulting with a real electrician and thinking about the problem, as it was not immediate at first why the thing did not work as a virtual switch when it worked as an on/off switch, it became clear that the switch must have power even in the off position in order to work as a virtual switch. If the instructions had explained this it would become evident why the “black” wire must be sent to two of the poles on the switch. Perhaps I am particularly stupid but after showing the instructions to several highly educated people who suss through “simple” home repairs none of them came up with the answer or understood the instructions. I think that explains why the internet of things that do not work like they should is what it is and relies mainly on wireless plugs that plug into wired outlets. I will be using mostly the latter in the future.


(Ray) #4

This is not to give you a hard time and mostly trying to explain thing. I am an electrician and I did not understand your first post. I would probably get it right away if you posted the drawing you wired the switch/outlet with or if you said you wanted to control a smart outlet with a smart switch by physical wiring.
Virtual means there is no physical connection between the two devices.
Most people would not know what a virtual switch is and virtual switch is not something you described above in Smartthings.
Don’t think I blame Jasco support for not knowing either since that’s not the term they use and they would probably know even less about smartthings hub. All smart devices in HA need constant power to operate and keeping track of status so it’s kind of a new thing for newcomer or non HA DIY folks.
Hopefully your next experience will be better and welcome to the never ending world of HA.


#5

To help avoid any future confusion, the usual term for what is being described would be a “networked switch,” not a “virtual switch.” That is, a device that communicates wirelessly because of a radio inside of it.

The term “virtual switch” is typically reserved for representations of devices where there isn’t any physical device at all.

As @Navat604 mentioned, networked devices have to have some kind of power at all times so that the radio inside of them will hear the next “on” command from the network.

In most of the devices that are compatible with SmartThings, this power comes from the neutral wire. The wiring diagrams for the devices are pretty explicit about that, so I’m not sure where the confusion arose. But there are a few older models which are wired somewhat differently. Again, the user manual does have the wiring diagram.

If you could give us exact model numbers of the devices that you are using we might be able to clear up the confusion more easily.