As Far as I am aware this photon can output 3.3v which I would imagine I need to output 4.9v?
When this is the particle setup the bed is down.
When this is setup the TV is up.
Anyone any idea how to get the particle to jump between these as a 1click (on/off) option on smartthings. Really happy. @tgauchat
On a side note the photon seems to be OK not running on three USB.
That’s awesome. Nice to see it’s so easy. Congrats. I didn’t even think for some reason you were running the proton right off the existing board. Duh
I might have to get one of these to tinker with. I have a few dumb things I’d like to tie into Smartthings.
yeah so simple. Looks like I don’t need that IR relay. Strange Whats the chances I have just caused a massive fire hazard? lol
From what I can see I need to get the photon to do the following
As default pins D0 (Up pin) and D3(Down pin) need to default at "low"
In my head I press the On button in Smartthings. This tells the photon to set D0 as High for 15 seconds to put the TV to the perfect position. After 15 seconds it reverts D0 to Low and leaves the TV in position.
When I press the Off button in Smartthings, Photon changes D3 from Low to High for 20 seconds to put the TV down. After 15 seconds it reverts D3 to Low .
I am not sure how to make any of this happen due to 0 coding experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a fair amount of Arduino coding experience and can assure you this is pretty easy… What I don’t have is Particle Photon experience, but the whole point of the Particle Photon system is that it provides a rather easy to use cloud layer over top of typical Arduino coding.
I’m not sure when I’ll get a chance to do a hands-on project with Photon, but the lazy answer is that @keithcroshaw (and a few others before him?) built a SmartThings integrated blind tilting project with Photon and could at least point you in the right direction. Send him a PM and/or check out his project…
It’s a long thread, so browse around until you find the latest code.
But frankly … I wouldn’t be surprised if the code in the first mentioned GitHub is a not a bad starting point…
(P.S.: If you have a budget for co-operative custom development; Private Message me. We can work over Skype and I have Photons to build with.)
Yea PM me too if you want to figure out some specifics. Once you understand how simple calling of functions from SmartThings is you’ll see that the SmartThings to Particle Cloud communication is dead simple. The hardest part will be your Particle Photon code.
@darrenflanagan ok looks like you’ve been busy. i think i have the solution you are after
flash your Particle firmware with the following, please take not of the timeTVUP & timeTVDown constants, these are set to 10 seconds (in ms). you need to time how long it takes to raise and lower the Screen and set these accordingly
then add the following Device Type and and SmartApp in the relevant sections of the IDE
and the smartapp
then load the TV Bed (Connect) app from your My Apps section of the SmartThings App and enter your particle username and password click next and select your particle photon Device (the particle has to be plugged in and online) and viola it will create a switch in ST with the name of your photon Device then when you click on the tv will raise and when you click off it will lower…job done
please PM me though as i would like a quick chat regarding how you currently have it wired.
I have tested this with a photon board plugged into two LED’s on D0 (Up and Green) and D3 (Red and Down)
i have made a very quick video showing the setup process of the app which will be uploaded and processed very soon
this should be the missing pieces of your puzzle. let me know how you get on?
Wow you guys are like mad scientist! Very cool.
Someday I would love to learn what all this mumbo jumbo means!
Sorry for the interruption
Off topic, but … May I ask what tool you are using for Android emulation on your PC? Or is that a screencast from your mobile? If so … what screen case software? Thanks! (BTW: I use Bluestacks… not bad, but a little clunky).
im using the android emulator that is part of Microsoft Visual Studio 2015 Community Edition
Well much love to @Fuzzyligic His help over the past few days and specifically the several hours he has spent on skype with me today is greatly appreciated. No only did he take the time to provide me with the smartapp, device handler & firmware for photon to power the device though smartthings but he took time to help me fix my Photon why I complete messed up. Thanks to everyone @celblazer @tgauchat who has helped me find solutions that I didn’t even know existed.
Little bit of clean up to get photon to send information to ST on the current state of the motor (up vs down). But as things stand I couldn’t be happier.
Video to follow
£26 Photon starter kit
£3 Jumper cables
did the video follow?
Hi @AutomateEverything (Kile),
What you’ve done with the Kaydian Maximus TV bed (I have the same bed and system) is exactly what I want to do, I have the harmony hub remote all ready, but want to extend it to control the TV mechanism and sound system. It being RF has had me searching all over the internet to look for a solution and stumbled across your post.
The wiring of IR relay to the remote is a great solution, but probably beyond my technical ability.
Is this something you would consider doing again and supplying to me a final unit? I would of course pay you for the remote and your time?
Hey @celblazer! Can you help me figure out how to get my situation sorted out. It is very similar to what you are talking about in this thread but I am kind of lost. I posted this over on the Avs forums also but no real help was given as of yet- plus I like this community better anyways
Here we go:
Could someone give me some help with this modification if I post some pictures of my remote? I currently have the mk161 built and the 8049 added to my harmony.
I have 2 questions however, 1 is on the same direction as above. I have a remote that uses 2 AAA Batteries for total of 3 volts. The power supply I am powering the mk161 with is 12V. My question is when I come out of the 2 channels of output on the mk161 to go to the remote, do I have to have a dc-dc step down converter in-line on each of the 2 output channels between the output of the mk161 and The 3V remote control.? I plan on continuing to use the 2 AAA batteries to power the projectors rf remote control.
I?m not very sure of myself when it comes to electrical so it’s possible that what I just said makes no sense at all. Because if the power to that circuit is coming from the 2 batteries, then will I even need step down converters??- I guess I’m just afraid that when I solder the wires coming from the mk161 to the proper places on the rf remote circuit board that I will blow it up and I’m confused if the voltage difference between the 2 pieces will mess something up.
The second question is the buttons on the rf remote control on the circuit board look like they are made of a thin concave piece of tin that pops in on the center when pressed. There is a thin clear sticker over the area where this described component is. So the question is, how do I solder to it? (Since it is under the transparent sticker like material and where do I solder my + and - wires to on the described components?)
I am going to try and attach some pictures for in case my descriptions are no good.
Thank you all so much in advance!!
Pictures are attached. This is a homegear 120? motorized projector screen. I would say a great great value for the price you can find it online for. However, I must say also, it is evident, that quality control and build quality is not that of a much more expensive screen so keep that in mind. I just couldn?t make myself spend hundreds of dollars on a screen just to upgrade to a motorized screen.
No need for any step down converter/ The unit just uses a relay to click the switch.
I wired mine to the traces on the board. Just carefully scraped them to get to copper. I don’t remember if I removed that sticker, I may have. Been so long since I did it. LOL It’s been working perfect and is tucked away in my cabinet. I should check the batteries for good measure now that I think of it. If I dig it out I’ll snap some pics for you.
Thank you so much. I ended up getting it working just as you stated. It isn’t pretty but it works and that’s all that matters. I guess I’ll put it in a small project box to hide the ugliness. Haha, thank you so much for your response.