Isn’t he the OP?..
Yeah, good point, lol. I was referencing the topic.
Inovelli has their own community support forum, but since @rontalley pointed out this is your thread, we I guess we can go at it here, lol.
There are 2 Line backstab holes on the Inovelli. They are connected together, so if you have the Line from the panel (i.e. a constant hot) fed to that hole the other hole will be hot as well.
It sounds as if you are using the red of the 3-wire going to your Aux switch. You are asking if it should be hot, and the answer is yes, if you feed Line voltage to the Load terminal, whatever else you put in the 2nd hole will be hot as well. It’s not clear to my why you are asking, but if you wired the red from the 3-wire to the Line of the Inovelli and it’s not hot on the other end, that 3-wire may not be going where you think it is.
One other thing . . is this a neutral or non-neutral installation? You said that you have a Line from the panel, which suggests to me that this is a neutral installation. In a neutral installation, you should not be feeding a Line to the Add-on (Aux) switch. In a neutral installation, you pass a neutral (usually using the white) and a traveler (usually using the red) to the Aux.
Take a look a the wiring diagrams here:
Quick update, for those whom may end up using Evolve LTM-5 as their accessory add-on switch, I got it working with the Inovelli. My comment with their red-series so far, (default DTH, I have not update it yet), is solid but not over the top. Energy usage right out of the gate was cool. I am not using any sense yet, so maybe here is where it will shine. But for now, the feels is good, and the delay between hitting the switch to light turn on or off is good also (same a post on youtube where someone commented that there was a minor lag). Will let this run for couple of days while connecting up the Zooz and test that one out.
Nice, I’m glad you got it working with the Evolve switch!
A quick side note. During the setup using the brand name option, it asks for me to scan in the QR code. Given it is November already, and I was working on this around 5:00 PM, indoor, in a room with very little light, it was very challenging to get the QR-code to show up. I end up getting flash light on my third try before I get it into ST. Human error here for sure, but figure I provide my input.
On that note, what was the QR code use for during the setup? It is generic given the same model or unique on each switch Eric?
The QR code is a Device Specific Key (DSK). It is unique to the switch. Scan it when including in ST so that you can connect your switch with S2 security. Take a look in the IDE to see how it connected. If it connected at S0, than you might want to exclude it and re-add it.
That same QR code is on a piece of paper that came with the switch, so you don’t have to struggle with the one on the switch.
Great question - the QR code is unique to every switch and is what allows the switch to pair in S2 mode (latest security). Each code contains a unique identifier that lets the hub know the devices unique code.
I’m sure someone more versed in Z-Wave can explain it better, but essentially that’s the gist of it. If you don’t scan the QR code, it will pair in S0 mode.
Edit: dang, look at you @Bry
That’s interesting as I believe it pairs in S0 mode because it says it was not secure. Would the S0/S2 setting should up in Samsung IDE?
That’s correct. It can’t pair as S2 without that key. You can’t change it in the IDE. You’ll have to exclude the switch and then re-pair it using the QR code.
Just a quick update, I believe I will go with the Inovelli as I think I may run into use case where a neutral wire will not be available.