Well when I unplug it, the COM5 goes away.
I can also do this:
Man - I have no idea what I’m doing.
Yes the directory is F:\desktop\new folder
THAT’S IT!!!
All those dots are the PC sending the firmware to the H801.
Once it’s done, you remove the J3 jumper so as to not accidentally put it back into flash mode, then wire the power up to the 12v vcc and gnd on the right side of the device, and then you can connect to it with your phone!
You can do the wireless setup with the 3.3v power from the adapter, if you want to test it, but it’s safer in my opinion to have a solid power source before messing too much. These are impossible to brick from what I’ve seen, but safe > sorry.
But none of that required the esptool.exe command. And I just picked any random thing for Flash Size and Build at the top. This wasn’t is anyone’s instructions…
So now I’m suppose to connect to you via my phone? I don’t see anything, wifi setttings right?
LOL I didn’t notice the file name, change that to the one you downloaded from the first post. You flashed some default thing that it came with, but that is EXACTLY what you want to see!
Then, you’ll get an access point listed per the instructions that you then connect to, configme is the password, then you can set it up by access it’s IP in your mobile browser, the 192.168.4.1.
I have a few questions I did not find in this threat, sorry if I did miss it - it is getting pretty big:
- What is the most efficient program to make for a single LED color? 1 Action, Flash, Color, how many milliseconds, Forever?
- Can there be more than six programs?
- When the LED is to be off, is best to turn off the H801 or power down the H801/LED strip all together?
- Is it save to have constant 24/7 power to the H801 even when the LED is not on
- Is the H801 save for 24/7 100% power for LED strips? Just wondering how long you guys been running these…
@erocm1231
How does the H801 compare to the Fibaro device that’s $70.
Six programs max, they are stored in the controller, not ST. Use CoRE to do more advanced stuff but timing may not be as good.
By using the second smart app, you can create individual channel virtual switches. I use these in Alexa groups for simple color changes. Can’t recall where this SA is, will try to find the link later, try searching h801.
I keep all strips powered all the time, with lights off they use very little energy. I have under cabinet lighting, closet lighting, entertainment lighting, no issues ever.
Depending on power supply quality, I don’t see issues leaving them on all the time. Just check for excess heat to make sure you aren’t overdriving them.
Thanks a lot, do you know the answer to this one?
What is the most efficient program to make for a single LED color? 1 Action, Flash, Color, how many milliseconds, Forever?
Like, you want it to just turn on to that given color? But not as the default device turnon? Find the hex value of the color you want and put that in a program, choose custom under color to get the hex field. Then flash and probably no duration? Haven’t tested that.
The SmartApp for creating a virtual switch for each color channel is called SmartLife Virtual Dimmer Sync, it is actually mentioned in post one, it’s on post 88:
By using this, I get 5 virtual switches, I then have CoRE turn them on at certain levels to get pre-programmed colors. That way you aren’t limited to the 6 programs.
Should the slider in the main tile dim the lights? I would guess that is the function however I am unable to get that to work, otherwise everything is functioning as should be. Please help if I’m doing something wrong!
I don’t think it does anything, actually, never really used it since I use individual channel sliders or have the levels already automated.
Doesn’t seem hard to implement it since the device is a light, any chance this can be looked in to? Using this for tv backlighting so sometimes it can be too bright
@erocm1231 any chance of making that slider work as a dimmer? I realize the individual colors can be dimmed but once i find a mix I like it’d be easier to just dim with the slider and not change the individual levels
Is there a way to have multiple H801s use the same program?
Or do I need to recreate the same programs or “virtual switches”?
If you can, so if I have three H801s and I want the same 6 programs used by each, I need to remake each program for each device?
Yeah, far as I know. I have three with the same program but it’s only 2 actions so wasn’t too bad. ST doesn’t have a mechanism for cut/paste, would be wonderful for CoRE and a few other apps like this one.
How do you use the same program for the H801s?
When you make the programs, then have it create the virtual switches, the switches only work for that specific H801.
No you still to program for each device individually. I have a “room” with all the program virtual switches and another with all the channel switches just to keep it organized. I use CoRE and Alexa groups to make all the virtual switches synchronized as needed.
Ah, okay.
I was wanting to use the same programmed virtual switch for the multiple devices.
Are you guys have any problems with these yet? Have they been pretty solid with functionality and connectivity?
Any cons I should know or be aware of?
You can create an unattached virtual switch in the ide and use smart lighting or core to tie program virtual switches to that.
Had very good reliability since I fixed some wifi issues, every once in a while one won’t act on a sent command the first time and I may need to send again, but it’s no more common than other ST attached devices.
No real cons I can think of, except sometimes a power bump will wipe the config, just takes a second to set back up, but can be irritating.
Like the power goes out or a power surge?
Yeah, some of us have had both situations cause loss of config. I’ve only had it happen twice and it was while unplugging the device to move it. The ones I’ve left plugged in haven’t seemed to care about power outages.