Thanks. I’m using the 3 Leviton Dimmers from Home Depot but plan to do the rest of the home with GE.
@johnconstantelo I hear ya I see that the new and old GE aux switch doesn’t get included in ST and don’t have zwave chips. Just wondering since linear/evolve aux switches can be included to ST. Thanks
Hmm I about to install some switches in my new home but I’m a bit confused. I have a 4 way light setup in one hall (2 lights 3 switches) but I have the older GE 45613 3-way dimmer switch kit and the 45609 on/off switches.
Can I just add one 12723 Aux switch to the 45613 setup and be good to go?
@santiagodraco you should be able to but do realize that the new GE switches were made for LED bulbs. W/o the neutral connection if your using LED bulbs they could start to flicker.
I’m trying to figure out if I can install a 12729 (3-way dimmer/toggle switch) and two 12728 (Add on toggle switches). I have three switches controlling one set of lights. I assume the first and last are 3-way switches, the one in the middle should be a 4-way. Will these replace those switches with current wiring?
No way to know until you open it up and look at the actual wiring. There are at least 5, and probably more like 8, different ways to wire a 3 way. It all depends on exactly what is where.
In particular, these models need a neutral wire.
Screw Terminal installation; requires wiring connections for Line (Hot), Load, Neutral and Ground. Traveler wire required for multi pole installation
The GE 127XXX series is now a Non-stock items at Lowes. Does this mean a new line is coming out or that Lowes is just not going to carry the current line any longer.
They’re definitely bringing out a new line of zwave plus switches, they’ve already gotten certification for them but I haven’t seen them for sale anywhere yet.
I know they say indoor only but has anyone installed these outside? 12721 - In-Wall Smart Duplex Outlet
I want to put them outside by my porch up around the ceiling (would never get wet where I want to install it) so I can plug christmas lights in but still have an available outlet for something else. I was using the 12720 - Plug-In Outdoor Smart Switch Module (works great) but I want to try and avoid running an extension cable.
Not rated for outdoor use. It can be really dangerous to use these kind of outlets outdoors because when they get moisture in them you can get a fire hazard. And it will never pass inspection. And if you don’t care about either of those things, it’s also likely that the switch will die after a year or so.
Use the outdoor rated ones. In some jurisdictions you can use an indoor rated one if it’s inside a plastic box intended for that purpose and it doesn’t freeze, but check your local jurisdiction.
Another alternative is to get a regular outdoor rated outlet and then use a micro inside the wall.
@Navat604 or one of the other electrical experts might have more to add.
@JDRoberts Do you know if they make outdoor z wave or zigbee outlets?
They don’t in the US because of the recommendation that outdoor receptacles be GFCI. ( they do in UK because they handle ground fault protection differently). That protection is required because of the water issues.
An outlet can’t be both GFCI and Z wave because zwave outlet has to be always powered while a GFCI outlet has to be able to cut power.
So in the US, you either have a GFCI outlet that you plug the Z wave pocket socket into, or you have a GFCI outlet and you put a micro in the wall upstream of that.
Or you get a zwave switch ( not an outlet, a switch) which is rated for outdoors ( there are a couple made for pool equipment) and then you wire that to a GFCI outlet which is rated for outdoors. But those switches tend to be really expensive, around $200.
All three of these options give you GFCI protection on the outlet where you need it.
All of these reasons are why most people just use a pocket socket unless it’s really heavy duty equipment.
Thanks! I think I may just stick with the regular outdoor outlets and just use the plug-in outdoor smart switch module. Since I only use it once maybe twice a year.
GE does make a very durable outdoor module that you just plug in, great for holiday lighting and my hot tub clorine generator timer. I use the same unit, summer for hot tub, then later for holidays.
Because of you I am now researching the NEMA electrical code
I was not aware of these requirements.
It seems that the standard actually states more, outside outlets need to be TR (Tamper resistant) and (Weather resistant) and enclosed in a box and be GFCI.
also outlets in garages and many other places need to be GFCI now.
also the requirement states that there MUST be outside outlets
All balconies, decks, and porches that are accessible from the inside of the home must have a receptacle installed within their perimeter.
A receptacle is required at the front and back door outside every home. This receptacle can be mounted no higher than 6’6" above grade.
NEMA is the national electrical manufacturers association. Not a code in and of itself. They can only make recommendations.
NEC (National electrical code) or NFPA 70 is the “national electrical code” in the US, but it still isn’t a federal law.
Instead, the NFPA publishes its codes, and then it is up to individual cities and states whether to adopt it, amend it, or choose their own standards.
It is typically adopted by states and municipalities in an effort to standardize their enforcement of safe electrical practices. In some cases, the NEC is amended, altered and may even be rejected in lieu of regional regulations as voted on by local governing bodies.
That’s why we always say you need to check with your local jurisdiction to see what your local codes are. There are some significant variations.
@Navat604 or one of the other electrical experts might want to add more.
The above is true but also there are many exemptions to them as well. Such as garage opener plug, non accessible plug etc… are not required to have GFCI. I would definitely put in an outdoor GFCI outlet for outside outlet with a waterproof box/cover as well. Remember, it’s for your safety and code is just the minimum standard.
If you wanted a smart outlet and you have no downstream GFCI outlet then a GFCI breaker is another option.
@JDRoberts Not sure if this is old news or not, but the new GE dimmers are available directly from Jasco: https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-plus-wall-smart-switch
Out of stock at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8SR0/?tag=zwavall-20
Can anyone who has the current (or new) GE dimmers comment on the physical nature of the switches? How much side-to-side “wiggle” is there? (Meaning how much can you move the paddle left and right, unrelated to actually activating the switch.) How firm is the button depress?
I ask because I’ve tried a Homeseer dimmer which is nice technically, but which has a sloppy/mushy paddle. I have to decide on buying the rest of my ~20 switches this week on sale, or wait for a new option (with instant updating) by GE or Lutron in the near future.
Yesterday I compared a new GE switch to a Cooper Aspire dimmer. IMO, the GE felts a lot nicer. You described it exactly right - the Cooper feels “mushy” whereas the GE feels solid and has a positive “click” when you toggle it. I may end up sticking with the Cooper because everyone reports that you can dim them very low, but I’d be lying if I said that I wasn’t disappointed when I opened the box. If they could dim low enough, I’d likely go with GE for the whole house.