I have been lurking and learning as much as I can for quite a while… this is my first time reaching out for help/posting, so please forgive me if I have posted to the wrong area… I can assure you that I didn’t do so intentionally.
Having recently retired from 30 years military service, I now finally have time to explore a little world of smart home automation… Empowered by all the amazing ideas/info exchanged between individuals here in the SmartThings community, I have been successful in implementing many SmartThings devices and lighting automations thus far, but have run into a problem yesterday when I installed my first two set of 3-way GE smart switches… with add-on switches.
I watch the videos/read everything I could and the first set of smart switches that I installed in my garage went smoothly… Just when I thought I had it all figured out, my attempt to install another my second GE Smart Switchto control my outside flood lights… I’m now CLUELESS as to how to proceed/properly wire without destroying the new Switches.
I have 2 sets of flood lights on the back side of my house controlled by 3-way switches… one of the 2 switches located downstairs… The other in the master bedroom… both lights function properly before beginning this task…
How to determine which switch is the line switch and which is considered the load switch… the indication I’m getting from my understanding of the videos is that both appear to be fed from the service panel.
Yesterday’s installation with power on and both switches in the off position as instructed, there was clearly only power being supplied to one of the two common terminals…
Today, with power on and both switches in the off position using multimeter to check for voltage on the common terminal… (here’s where the problem begins) with both switches in the down position/off there is 120 volts on the common terminal of BOTH switches… Grasping at straws, I thought possibly one of the switches had failed even though the system was working fine before I started, so I shut the power and did continuity checks of both switches… and was able to verifiy that both are internally working properly…
Downstairs location: Double Gang Box with 3-way switch that I’m attempt to replace with Smart switch and standard single pole for porch light. The common terminal on a 3-way switch also jumpered and feeds the single pole switch for the porch light. There’s a total of four wire runs entering the double Gang Box… (1) three-way run for travelers (black, white, red and ground) other three runs are two-way (black/white/ground) and all four runs enter through the top of the double gang box. I was reading in one of the post where the Line Feed usually enters the Box through the bottom. All 4 neutral wires are wire tied/capped together.
Upstairs master bedroom location: single box, 3-way switch… Three runs all entering the Box through the top… (2) two-way runs, and (1) three-way run. All three neutral wires are tied/wire cap together.
I viewed very informative post that had the nine different 3-way wiring scenarios none of them seemed (at least in my mind) to apply… although I might be missing something just prior to my retirement I was involved in serious accident and ended up with a TBI, so I might be overlooking the obvious.
I started wondering if my power source was wired to the light fixture itself, but when I looked at those examples… it appeared as if the neutrals were Not tied together, or neutral was being used as hot wire and neither of those scenarios are applicable in my wiring configuration.
I would be EXTREMELY GRATEFUL for any and all help!! The last thing I want to do is needlessly destroy the new smart switches, or worse burn the house down… I’ve already been there and done that several different time in different applications since my accident.
I’m sorry the post is so long just wanted to make sure that I gave ample information to aid in the troubleshooting.