I have been looking for a solution for this one off switch I have in my master bathroom, which controls an exhaust fan, a heater, and a light. Every single switch in my home is connected to Smartthings and Control4 with the exception of this one switch. Does anyone have any advice on replacing this switch with something that can be integrated into the rest of the home? I currently have a complete Lutron Caseta solution for all lights, lamps, and shades. A couple of Z Wave fan control switches as well as Z wave switches on all bathroom exhaust fans. This one last switch is the only device not integrated into Smartthings and it would be super nice to be able to automate the heating of the bathroom. I can’t seem to find anything with this configuration that supports Zigbee or Z Wave. or even Wifi. I would settle for any solution at this point. On top of the complexity of a 3 function switch, all 3 switches are rocker type switches.
Thank you. The only problem is, I still need something at the switch. This device is more like a remote control for devices rather than the actual control module
This actually might work. The loads are close @ 12 AMPS and the micro controller being rated at 10 AMPS. I am thinking if I only hook up 1 load to 3 separate micro controllers that it might work and be within operating parameters. I ordered a couple of the Fibaros to test the theory.
That’s not my understanding of how load works with these devices. I don’t think the load gets distributed in that fashion. @Navat604 or one of the other electrical experts can say more.
10 A is a typical load for lighting. If you need to draw more than that, there are some in Wall devices available that can handle higher loads, notably the Linear/gocontrol fixture module and the smartenIT Relay. Both are spec’d to 15 A for single device and work well with SmartThings. Then as far as what you put on the wall, there are a number of different switch models that can work with them. Probably you would put one of the in wall devices on each of your devices that you’re controlling, presumably where there’s a neutral, and then just run the control wires to a retractive Switch like this:
Or if it’s easier, as @tamttt mentioned, you could just use a battery powered three toggle device on the wall.
So basically you use an in wall micro to individually “smarten” each of the end devices to be controlled, and then you either run wires to a triple retractive switch or you use a battery device with a similar form factor.
You do need to be careful about the wiring. Heaters frequently have a surge of energy at the beginning and you need to make sure that both the wire itself and the switch are rated to handle that, as well as the microcontroller.
But I leave further discussion of the load specs to the electrical experts. My interest is more in the networking features of the devices.
I see a couple of issues you will have to figure out. It’s a single gangbox with 3 switches.
Room is your biggest problem here. I don’t think you will have enough room for more than one micro relay module behind the switch.
The heater is rated at 1300 Watts. 1300 Ă· 120 = 10.8 Amps. You should not draw more than 80% of the switch rating so I would definitely go with a 15A minimum for the heater.
If room is available. You could go with one dual relay module for the light and fan and one high wattage single relay module for the heater.
If room is a problem. I would change out the gang box to a 3 gang and have enough room for more smart device selections.
Using 3 under rate switches to control a high load is asking for a fire. Electricity doesn’t work that way. It will try to find the least resistance path.
Edit : depend on your taste. Some people install an extra gang box higher up and have the micro relays in there with a outlet blank cover.
Not sure about Europe but in North America you are not allow to hide electrical box behind wall and most of the Washroom fans have the smallest electrical connection box you could think of so I don’t even think you could have one micro relay module in there. Unless you install a gang box beside the fan with a cover in the ceiling which will not be a pretty sight or violating code and hide it in the ceiling which I don’t think we like to encourage.
I totally understand your point of view. The problem is when someone buy your house. They will probably won’t know about these hidden junction boxes and it would be an electrical nightmare to find these hidden boxes when there is a faulty circuit in one of the box.
You are wondering how could a fault be in a box with just with connectors. Unfortunately, there are plenty of loose connections caused by bad practice and when there is a high load or short circuit at the load or expansion etc… These connections become faulty and dangerous also difficult for an electrician to trace. I am pretty confident people like you and most handy people will do a decent and safe job but there are others out there that will give me a shiver. Sorry for the off topic @robrainer
Yes I was stating that I was planning on using 3 controllers. 1 for each load. The Fibaro is so tiny that 3 of them can easily fit into a single gang if you’re not intending to install a typical switch in the gang box as well. Planning on just covering the box with a switch cover or placing a remote switch over the gang box.
This is exactly what I ended up doing. After much debate and research I installed a dual relay fibaro (Switch 2 is the model) connecting the exhaust fan and the light to it. I then installed a single high load switch for the heater load, being that the exhaust fan and light are rarely used (Bathroom has the standard exhaust fan and plenty of high hat lighting in addition to the 3 function heater/exhaust/light unit) and can be easily programmed for auto-on / auto-off with the rest of the bathroom devices. It works great and I’m extremely satisfied with the Fibaro relay. It was an uneventful install really. Thanks for all the advice.
No problem. I love learning the various points of views, and better yet, learning about regulations and/or thoughts about selling the house and how new owners will navigate things like hidden relays. Great discussion and I appreciate your point of view and well thought out scenarios.
I have a very short wall with only room for a single gang receptical box that has three loads run to it. I currently am using a pair of dual micro relay modules (like the vision/monoprice relays) to give me zwave control of the loads, but would rather use a single gang three load smart switch if there is such a beast. It needs to also have three physical switch buttons for local control. I have been unable to find one. I don’t like the relays as I can’t seem to pair accessory switches to them as they don’t seem to allow local association. Any help greatly appreciated!
