Simple question what is the best light switch for SmartThings hub
Try the Zooz light switches from SmartestHouse. This switch can be a 3-way switch and does not require a dummy or add-on switch. And comes in a toggle form factor.
Depends on whether or not you have Neutral wire at the switch junction.
If not, then you need to consider:
- Lutron Caseta
- or various micro-relay options that can be placed at the fixture.
Loaded question. Different strokes for different folks. I tend to recommend the GE Z-Wave Plus Switches and Dimmers (Rocker Style). They are Z-Wave Plus Repeaters, highly reliable and have extra functions such as double tap up and double tap down (2 Extra Assignable Buttons) and other userful features.
@Degsy5 If your looking for retractive switches for domestic the best solution is mini grid. It doesn’t need a yoke and you can just buy the bits you need and screw them together. They don’t take up the space like MK and other brands do.
There are not really any options for us in the UK for smart switches, you can get a fibaro z-wave dimmer and then put your own retractive switch to that. Your other option if like me you have smart lamps is to create your own using the fibaro USB, the problem with that is they don’t work locally and your probably need CoRE.
Is it just me or does the Zooz switch look exactly like the GE switch? I’m wondering if they are made by the same company and just rebranded by GE and Zooz.
Also wondering why no one ever recommends Leviton. After a lot of searching and hemming and hawing, I’m strongly leaning towards them - they have a full line of Z-Wave Plus and regular switches for any function, and then all your switches (smart and dumb) will look and operate the same way.
Please note that this was posted in the UK category. Most of the responses in this thread so far are for devices that will only work in the US. That includes Zooz, GE, Leviton, and Lutron Caseta. All good switches, but not available for UK wiring.
As far as UK answers, it depends a great deal on whether you have a neutral wire at the switchbox. Many UK homes do not, and for that reason, many community members do not use an all in one Switch device.
Instead, as @borristhecat mentioned, probably the most popular option for the U.K. Is one of the in Wall micros that do not require a neutral, such as the Fibaro or Aeotec Nano models and then combine that with the retractive dumb switch of your choice.
These options and some others are discussed in the FAQ for UK lighting, so you might take a look at that for additional ideas.
If you do happen to have a neutral wire at the switchbox, then the TKB single paddle Z wave plus switch is a good budget option for the UK:
Thanks for this I have bought a tb home single paddle switch but having trouble getting it to work, I have set up a device handler and the SmartThings app says it’s paired but cannot get it to work from the app any thoughts
I bought a TKB - Z55s from Vesternet to pilot my corridor ceiling lights, but I’m not a pro electrician and was wondering if anyone could confirm how to connect the wires:
My installation is as follow (4 switches S1, S2, S3 and S4)
As far as I understood I have to replace Switch S1 with My TKB switch ?
Given the TKB guide:
Am I good to think the connection should be as follow:
But then what is the use of plug “3” auxiliary switch signal output ?
And what with the second L1 output of switch number 2 (S2), or should I replace S2 by a 3 way switch resulting in the following ?
No, the lamp to the device is correct but the live cable (should be brown in the UK) goes straight to L, not vira the switch.
Then one of your common points will go to the auxiliary switch input then the other think of it as the live to the switch but IT IS often NOT LIVE! It is normally 0v and will be connected to ground. But I can’t find the information for this product to be sure, if you could post it I can help further. BTW I’m a electrician and a lighting controls engineer.
Edit : I’m also referencing to the last photo the one before has only one 2 way switch (3 connection switch). You always need 2 for 2 way switching then if you need more you use the intermediate switch’s in-between (the 4 connection switch).
There is also another way to connect 2 way switching if your live and switch line in in the same box.
Hi @borristhecat, thank you so much for your answer:
here’s the link to the pdf from TKB website: http://www.tkbhome.com/upimg/file/1202365814088.pdf
I updated the diagram according to your explanation, let me know if I misunderstood what you meant
Again thank you !
Yes and no, just had a look and it not the type of switch I thought it was and also not the type you thought it was. What you want to do isn’t possible by the looks of it (there is a way but it’s not very good and you could have your light off when smartthings says it’s on). This is an all in one single switch, you could create 2 ways but you would need one of these per switch by the look of it (this is why I couldn’t find the other common terminal). What you want is a fibaro switch or Aeotec nano then seperatly some DUMB retractive switches that way you can create 2 ways without the cost. As per the information at the beginning of this thread.
What you want to do isn’t possible by the looks of it
Ah crap ! Thank you for spotting this out, I was a bit naïve thinking I only had to replace a classical switch with this one would work…
Yes, @borristhecat is right, to use this switch with external switches (ie the rest of the circuit) you would need to swap each of the extra switches with TKBs auxiliary module - which seems to be a branded simple 3 way retractive switch. If you don’t want dim up and down at the switch then you don’t even need to change your switches (but dimming is then only possible via your phone or automation rules - which may be enough)
I have wired my switches as per the diagram, but the landing light which is connected to TZ56S is receiving a input on terminal labelled “3” from the downstairs hall switch TZ57, but the light on the landing light switch does not respond to the Aux input been received from the hall switch output.
the diagram is wrong, if you read the messages it won’t work like that
Ok thanks, any recommendations on how to get it to work electrically, sorry to be a pain.
I can give you a few but there all rubbish with this device, the way to do it with this device is replace all your switches to this switch. This will obviously cost more than using a different type of device (i.e fibaro dimmer) that will do what you want it to do.
I have had a email from TKB which says the terminal “3” aux signal input has been deactivated within the switch.