Yeah, that sensor, as long as it still has the external contacts, should work fine and use the same DTH.
Hi Allan @vseven,
Success !!!
I removed the Aeotec Door/Window Sensor 7 Pro from SmartThings, I removed the Aeotec Device handler that I had installed/tested earlier from my IDE, then started fresh.
The short story is that it’s now working great! Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!
For anyone looking for the Step-by-Step of installing the Aeotec Door/Window Sensor 7 Pro as a Smoke Detector, see the overview below of what worked for me.
------------STEP-BY-STEP-------------------------------
| Where | Steps |
|---|---|
| In Browser | Of Course, Review @vSeven’s Original Post!!! (click here) |
| Awesome of him to put this together!!! | |
| In Browser | Add vSeven’s Modified Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor for Smoke |
| On Computer, Log Into SmartThings IDE (click here) | |
| Sign in with Samsung Account or SmartThings Account (whichever you have) | |
| Go to My Locations, Select Location | |
| Click My Device Handlers at top | |
| Click Create New Device Handler (top right) | |
| Patience… takes a few seconds to load | |
| Click From Code | |
| Open a New Browser Window or Separate Browser Tab | |
| Go to vSeven’s Code Page: (click here) | |
| Click Raw button | |
| Click Control-A (selects all), then Control-C (copies to clipboard) | |
| Return back to SmartThings IDE Browser Window (with blank “From Code” box) | |
| Click anywhere in box | |
| Control-V to paste Code into Box | |
| Click Create (bottom left) | |
| Click Save (top right) | |
| Click Publish (top right) | |
| Click “For Me” | |
| You should see “vseven : Modified Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor for Smoke” | |
| Status should be “Published” | |
| Leave Browser Open to Confirm Settings Later | |
| In SmartThings App | Install Aeotec Door/Window Sensor 7 Pro |
| First, read the Sensor 7 Pro User Guide and familiarize yourself with the device. | |
| Open the Sensor 7 Pro box; Pull Battery Tab | |
| Launch SmartThings | |
| Select Add (plus sign) | |
| Select Device | |
| Select Scan QR Code | |
| Scan the QR Code ON THE BOX (I didn’t have luck scanning code on device) | |
| Click Start | |
| Small Button on Side of Sensor 7 Pro: Click 3 times quickly (in less than 1.5 seconds) | |
| Note: you should see a red or green light on the sensor indicating you clicked 3 times | |
| Patience… takes a few seconds/minutes to Install | |
| Finish the install process in SmartThings, assigning to room, naming, etc. | |
| (I named mine Aeotec Smoke Relay) | |
| Browser | Go back to the SmartThings IDE in your browser |
| Click My Devices | |
| Find the Aeotec Device you just installed | |
| Confirm that the TYPE is Modified Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor for Smoke | |
| IF NOT, then do the following | |
| Click on the Aeotec Device | |
| Click Edit button (bottom-left) | |
| Click Type | |
| Select Modified Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor for Smoke | |
| Click Update | |
| On the Sensor 7 Pro, | |
| tap the button on the side once to activate & capture the new device settings | |
| Patience… may take a few minutes to re-sync | |
| SmartThings | Open the Aeotec Device to view its status |
It should now have an icon consisting of three burning flames (nice touch @vSeven 
|
|
| If you haven’t already installed SmartThings Home Monitor, do so now! | |
| Install by going to: Menu/SmartApps/SmartThings Home Monitor | |
| Familiarize yourself with its operation | |
| Open SmartThings Home Monitor | |
| The SMOKE icon should now be green (you may have to expand and configure) | |
| For the following two tests, watch the SmartThings Home Monitor | |
| Test Magnet: | |
| Hold the White Magnet Case in the proper proximity to the Sensor | |
| (see Pro 7 Manual to assure you’re holding in the right place) | |
| The magnet should NOT be activating the Pro 7 any longer! | |
| Test Dry Contact Terminals | |
| Use a paper clip or wire. Hold it on Terminals #2 and #3. Confirm it is Activating | |
| If the magnet is NOT disabled and the Dry Contact is NOT Activating | |
| Then something isn’t right. Don’t bother taking next steps to wire into the Smoke | |
| Detector until you resolve these basic operations | |
| Relay, Smoke Det, Sensor | I used the BRK-RM4 (click here), so the steps below pertain to it. |
| IF you use the Kidde SM120X (click here), modify wiring/colors accordingly | |
| Connect Following Wires from BRK-RM4 as Follows: | |
| BRK-RM4 White to Smoke Det White | |
| BRK-RM4 Black to Smoke Det Black | |
| BRK-RM4 Brown to Terminal #2 of Aeotec Sensor 7 Pro | |
| BRK-RM4 Gray to Terminal #3 of Aeotec Sensor 7 Pro | |
| Worth Noting: The Gray Wire on the BRK-RM4 is “Normally Closed”, | |
| Allan/vSeven used the “Normally Open” of the Kidde SM120X. | |
| I’m not sure exactly “why” it’s working for me, but it is, so I’m leaving it alone
|
|
| You might have to try using the BRK-RM4 BLUE Normally Open instead! | |
| Testing/Confirming | While viewing the SmartThings Home Monitor |
| Go to Your Actual/Physical Smoke Detector: | |
| Press & Hold the Test Button until you hear the alarm (continue holding) | |
| The SmartThings Home Monitor should alert you that Smoke was detected | |
| Let go of the test button, you’ll hear a click in the BRK-RM4, SmartThings returns to normal |
I’m new to SmartThings but have some light experience in programing and electrical work. I have the smoke detector working just fine, but I was trying to reprogram the CO detector to report correctly. As I can tell, they updated the “SmartThings Home Monitor” to work with CO detectors, I modified your CO detector GitHub code @vseven. I have the notifications working and the icon changes on the main screen, but I cannot get the status to report when you open up the device.
Can someone help me that understands SmartThings programing to fix the status from within the device.
Sorry for the multiple posts but it only lets new users post one photo in each post. Here is what I see in the device
This is what I’m trying to fix
Yeah, for the longest time the smart home monitor wouldn’t work with CO so I used smoke so it could at least be added.
Now the problem is finding a example. The only CO sensor DTH I see is SmartThingsPublic/zigbee-co-sensor.groovy at master · SmartThingsCommunity/SmartThingsPublic · GitHub and even that is using ocfDeviceType: “x.com.st.d.sensor.smoke” although it is using vid: “generic-carbon-monoxide-3”
I just updated my CO one to match this one. Didn’t test it but it should work as well as the SmartThings one.
That did it, I spent many nights trying to get that to work correctly, thank you for knocking it out.
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@vseven Thank you for clarifying that - I looked all over Kidde manuals for this information and it is not obvious - I kinda suspected that might be the case, but it doesn’t really show that (that I could find anyway!)
Looking through the Kidde Product Portfolio I found some products which could create an interesting setup:
They have both AC and 10 yr Battery Combo Devices that inter-connect wirelessly on their own network
So my thought is, connect the Master (Co-ordinator) as an AC wired Unit*, with the SM120X and CO120X (& EcoLink Switches) directly connected to that; then the Satellite devices will be Battery Devices located in the Bedrooms.
My understanding is that the Satellite Units should still wirelessly trigger the Relay Modules via the Hard-wired Co-ordinator Pigtail. (just waiting for confirmation from Kidde Support to validate that, but intuitively appears to sound like the case)
Interconnect Capability
This model has AC hardwire AND wireless alarm interconnect capability. When one hardwire or wireless interconnect unit sounds an alarm, all other compatible hardwire or wireless interconnected units will also alarm.
*When the House was built, they included 3 hard-wired Smoke Detectors - however NONE of which uses an interconnect wire and NONE of them are in any Bedrooms!
(currently the bedroom units, to meet code are just independent Battery Modules plus a couple of independent 10 yr CO Modules)
Indeed all three AC Smokes are all within the same ‘open’ space (two in downstairs Hallway and one at the top of the stairs) So I’ll just use the most centrally located of those for the Co-ordinator, then Battery Units for each of the 4 bedrooms.
I can leave those other two hard-wired units as just ‘dumb’ modules although could replace those too - right now these devices are quite reasonable - on Amazon, $55 for the AC Module and $79 for 2 x smoke only; the combo smoke/CO battery are $61
This is the plan
Note that I am still awaiting confirmation from Kidde that the WiFi interconnect will also cause the Relays to Trigger as well as sounding each module off.
I would think the wireless units would trigger the relays since, again assuming, the same signal they are looking for is what the other wired units are looking for. If so that is pretty neat as you can easily add sensors as needed without hard wiring them although I question the wireless battery life since it has to always be monitoring for a signal and can’t “sleep”.
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That sounds so logical, it must be true, right? 
The Battery Model claims to be 10 year (obviously a larger capacity than the AC model which contains a back-up - that module does have cautions against not having AC Power Connected or it WILL soon deplete and issue warning)
- I hear what you’re saying but would have to think the radio cannot be constantly active, employs some kind of low power mode? HIGHLY speculative on my part here - Maybe the transmitter only kicks on when alarm is triggered and the receiver has a low-power listening mode? I’ll have to try to find more details on that.
Your answer is on page two of this document:SM120X_UserGuide_EN.pdf (shareddocs.com) See case #2. In this case the pull to activate handle closes the connection between the Gray 9V power out of the Kiddie module and the Red interconnect cable Forcing all interconnected smokes to alarm. So you just need to replicate that if you want to trigger the alarm.
If you shunt across the gray and red coming out of the kiddie - you get an alarm signal on red. so - you need a switch AND a sensor. SO because of that, I’d use something like a Zooz Zen16 in place of the contact sensor. You can use it to trap the alarm by connecting one of the switch inputs Orange and Neutral from the Kiddie module, then have it activate an alarm by connecting one of the switch inputs to Gray and Red. There may be some other config - but should work… Jimmy @Automated_House knows more about the Zooz devices and I know for a fact he at least used to have a ZEN16 - maybe he could offer some suggestions on that config.
Sorry, that is not correct @nathancu - case #2 is not being utilized here and only applies if specifically using an alarm handle - if you review the very first post you will see that the Grey Wire is not being used in this instance (and the CO Module does not even have that!)
The relay modules are primarily triggered by the RED wire which carries an alarm specific (Smoke or CO) signal to energize the appropriate relay by detecting a particular signal for each condition; the grey wire is for an auxiliary (optional) Manual Pull Alarm Lever to trigger the alarm manually (in the event it is not already detecting)
I am confident that at least the primary Alarm Module will trigger the Relays - the only question is to whether the other modules connected by WiFi will also trigger those relays (via the Primary module detecting them). All of these WiFi module will sync to ALL alarm in an event, whether or not the Relays are even employed or there is a Red Wire interconnect! The grey wire is completely moot.
I read the question as wanting to trigger the alarm as well as get state. If you want to TRIGGER you need the pass through, if you just want to trap smoke, the config you specify will work and has been used many times by many people in the community
I don’t know whether you actually looked at these specific module:
They interconnect Wirelessly and when ONE triggers they ALL activate (alert) even with NO red wire interconnect at all (that part is not in question at all); my ONLY question is that, when a secondary unit triggers the primary to alarm (which it will), as well as sounding audibly does that also translate to producing the trigger signal out on the Red Wire of the primary. I think that question will only be answered by Kidde themselves (or by my own empirical testing).
I don’t understand the ‘trapping smoke’ comment???
But I thank you for your inputs regardless.
p.s. no - I have no need to activate the alarm(s) other than by their own detectors.
OK - you’re talking about the 4010DCSO-w DC wireless combo /smoke only units correct? In that case the answer is at the bottom of P16 of this document:
UG_P4010DCSCO-W_ENG.pdf (shareddocs.com)
The answer is, yes if the other units are in the list…
BECAUSE of the way fire safety code is written if the device alarms for ANY reason - it should produce a 9VDC signal across the interconnect line. If I remember correctly the device doesn’t get to choose whether an alarm activates the interconnect. It alarms - it triggers interconnect, PERIOD.
If wireless interconnect triggers a device and it alarms and DOESN’T fire the interconnect - I’d call the device defective. So would your local fire marshal and the NFPA 
If you read the note you highlighted carefully - and also note that I had already quoted that exact specific element in an earlier post - it states what I also said in my last post - that indeed any interconnect device will SOUND an alarm (that does NOT necessarily STATE that it will also trigger the Red Wire signal on a wired device - only that All the modules in the Interconnect will SOUND)
Will it trigger that signal? That is an intuitive deduction that I had already presumed - but the documentation does not specifically actually affirm that it will. The contradiction (per se) is that the connection diagram for the AC Powered modules shows the Red Wires being physically interconnected.
Also - the only time 9V DC comes into play is when specifically using the Gray wire (which IS a 9V DC signal and is connected to the Red Wire by a Manual Pull Switch). However the Activated Alarm signal on the Red Wire by either a Smoke or CO event is NOT a 9V DC signal, and indeed each signature is unique, on that common Red Output (i.e. NOT the same and NOT 9V)
So the Red Wire has three different signals that will trigger the Relays:
- 9V DC (specific to the Pull Switch)
- A Unique ‘Smoke’ signal pattern (that is NOT DC and different to that produced for a CO event)
- A Unique CO signal pattern (that is NOT DC and different to that produced for a Smoke event)
So to say that when a device alarms for ANY reason that it produces a 9V DC signal is incorrect.
And that is why both a Smoke Relay and a CO Relay can be commonly connected to the SAME Red wire and will only actuate whichever when the appropriate Signal is received and decoded.
Once again, my question is not how the Red Wire triggers the Relay(s); nor is it whether the Modules will wirelessly interconnect to SOUND the other alarms in the Chain (which is clearly stated in the documentation as such); my question remains - as it always has - is whether, the Primary (Co-ordinator) Module will produce an Output on the Red Wire (as well as SOUNDING) when one of the Subordinate Modules experiences the Alert and it is transmitted WIRELESSLY.
I’m an Electronics Eng and I read pretty well - indeed I am a sponge - I do not believe this particular question is answered by the literature.
Update - I spoke to a Kidde Customer Rep on the phone (tired waiting for e-mail response):
He confirmed what we suspected - that as long as one of the hard-wired Modules has the SM120X/CO120X physically connected to the Red Wire, a Wireless Alert from one of the other modules will cause that output to Flip (and so close our Contact Switch)
I also asked about the 10 yr battery life - he candidly said he didn’t know how it achieved that - however he did say that they guaranteed the lifetime of 10 years and would replace any that did not meet that capability.
Related to the overall project, in reading the literature for the Smoke (not combo) it states that those, although they don’t have built-in CO sensor, will also Sound-Alert for a CO alarm generated by one of the other modules that does have a sensor. That means can utilize the P4010DSC-W which are considerably cheaper, for the bedrooms - with the Combos in the Hall and Master Bedroom. Amazon has two-pack of the Battery Smoke for $79 vs $61 for a single Battery Combo.
So now just waiting for parts to arrive - first one arrived today, the SM120X - frustrating to not be able to do anything with that until the other parts show up! 
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The FCC filings on wireless devices usually has some good clues. The filing for Walter Kidde Portable Equipment Inc. Wireless Communicating Smoke Detector suggests these communicate at 437MHz and operate under part 15.231. So, it’s likely that the detectors periodically emit short data bursts for alarm conditions and possibly heartbeat, and there isn’t a network in the WiFi sense. Keeping the messages short and few would account for the battery life. It’s very unlikely that this is using WiFi, given both the filing and the battery life.
There is probably a sticker or label on the device with the FCC filing number if you’re interested in checking.
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if it’s 437 Mhz - it’s DEFINITELY not using WiFi…
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