I didn’t think about using a rib relay to achieve shutting the unit down. I can do the wiring no problem. I just need some insight. Thank you for the great idea and quick response!
So you have two outputs off that Kidde relay, a set for normally open and a set for normally closed. You are using the normally open set to trigger your alert. However you can use the normally closed set also. The relay isn’t rated for the furnace load but a standard RIB should work fine. Wire the existing 120v hot to the kidde NC wire then your RIB “hot” to the common. Wire the RIB neutral to your 120v neutral. Your RIB should be ON since the Kidde NC is making the connection. Wire the relay side of your RIB to the power feeding the furnace.
On smoke the NC will switch to open cutting the power to your furnace. Under normal conditions your furnace will run like normal. If there is a issue with your smoke or you have the circuit turned off it will still run since it’s on the NC side.
Note: I’m not a electrician although I work in a field that has had me do lots of electrical stuff. You might want to run this by one you know (or maybe @Navat604 ?). Also you are sharing the common from the Kidde between your 120v and your EcoLink sensors input. In my industry this would be fine and “should” work. But if in doubt just buy another Kidde relay…maybe even run some 12/3 or 14/3 wire over to your furnace. You can have multiples relays on the same link since they are just listening for the signal.
Here is an awful picture in a attempt to describe what I’m talking about.
I wouldn’t have a wet contact connecting to the Ecolink sensor. Also installing the sensor in the same junction box as the smoke detector is also not a good idea. I can suggest something else though.
How about using a Vision single relay module instead? have the kidde relay dry contact trigger the Vision relay module. Use the dry contact of the vision module to control your furnace circuit. You can create a simulated smoke detector and sync it to the Vision relay for smoke detection. By going this route. You will not need the Ecolink and the RIBU1C and it’s much safer.
Has anybody thought about incorporating some sort of wire in 120V to 3V regulator to power the sensors? I’ll be mounting mine in the attic and it would be nice to not worry about battery, even though the CR123’s would probably last a long time.
I was thinking there might be a wire based input and potted UL approved module with a DC output in the 3-3.3V range, but so far the reputable stuff is around $20 or so. Something along these lines would probably work well and carry the necessary safety…
I have a couple ecolink sensors I use on doors, in addition to the one I wired up to one of my smoke detectors.
The door sensors have been in use for like 2.5 years and I still haven’t had to change the batteries.
Using the sensor with a smoke detector could last even longer, since it will be reporting far fewer open/close events than a door sensor would (assuming you don’t have several fires a day ).
Yes done it on several sensors including the one connected to my smokes:
All - first let me say thank you for the DIY and the custom device handler code. I have it all set up now (I bought both the SM120 and CO120) and a single zWave sensor. I’ve got it added to my smartthings and it toggles like I would hope, however the most important aspect is integrating it into automation and that’s where I’m stuck. I’m trying to create a new automation that will turn on all the lights, however I can not find the sensor anywhere. Where would I find it (I’m looking under “perform this automatically when something happens” and have looked in each of the different submenus, but my “Smoke / CO2” switch is not visible in any of them.
Also, for reference to anyone else, I wired up the normally closed outputs (blue/yellow) in series from the two relays to the sensor. (e.g. - blue wire from one relay to the Zwave, tie the yellow wire from that same relay to the blue wire of the other relay, and the yellow wire from the second relay to the other Zwave terminal). That way if either device trips (I really don’t care which it is, I just want to be able to see to get out) it will break the circuit. I’m can’t think of a scenario where this “or” wiring is better than simply doing the orange wires in parallel to the Zwave, but just FYI if you chose the normally closed wire route.
Final note for vseven: Under sensorValueEvent, the inverted conditions are backward. The text in the log reads that it’s in alarm when it’s not, and vice versa. Icon is correct, just text is wrong.
I use Smart Home Monitor. It turns on the lights, sends SMS, etc.
Yeah, I found the same thing with my leak detectors. As DITPL said, for some reason those categories of sensors are only accessible through SHM’s safety features.
I’m not sure what you mean…I show both the correct text and icon. I’m not even sure how the icon would be correct but the text wouldn’t be…they go hand in hand.
@vseven Turns out I am using a fork of yours, with the toggle code.
@doncaruana if you’re still managing this there is a slight bug in sensorValueEvent where the inverted conditions text is backwards. The text in the log reads that it’s in alarm when it’s not, and vice versa. Icon is correct, just text is wrong. No big deal and I corrected in mine… Thanks for building it
New member, first post here. I’m also fairly new to Smartthings. We are building a new house and are trying to incorporate some smart features, and tying in the smoke and Co detectors was this morning’s project. Unfortunately it didn’t work.
I used the same parts as in the original post. Install was straight forward. We have 4 detectors on a total of 3 floors (including loft and basement office). One is 3 feet from a hidden electronics shelf (where a router, smartthings hub, etc will be located). I tied the 120x relay into this detector. Hot to hot, neutral to neutral, red link wire to the detector’s red link wire. The blue neutral wire and orange open wire were extended to the electronics shelf where I located the window sensor. The sensor linked to ST hub first try.
The sensor showed normally open. Then I tested the smoke detector and nothing…still open. I had a second 120x so I swapped that one in, same result. I switched the orange Open wire with the yellow Closed wire, and the sensor now showed Closed. Ok, sensor is working and so is the wire between it and the relay. Tested the detector, still Closed…no change.
It’s as if the red link wire isn’t reading, but I have checked and double checked that it is connected, and correctly.
If anyone has a suggestion I’d appreciate it.
Might be a dumb one but the lid was closed on the sensor when you did the testing, correct? I can’t remember if those have a tamper switch and don’t read when the lids off.
Other than that it should be straightforward. When you say test it you mean press the test button? Because I honestly I’m not sure if that sets It Off. I know I’ve hit the test button I don’t remember it triggering but when we actually had smoke in the kitchen it went off
When I push the test button on my smoke detector that has an sm120x wired up to it, the contact sensor does get tripped.
Good question, but yes the cover was on. Using the test button should work fine, since all detectors go off, so it stands to reason the signal should set off the smartbsensor as well.
That doesn’t make much sense. Can you connect the relay directly to a single smoke with none in the chain and retest? Use a multi-meter to check the output from the relay directly without the sense as part of the equation and work from there.
I find it highly unlikely you have two bad relays.
Problem solved. I was an idiot. Too much going on and missed the obvious. I hadn’t hooked power to the breaker yet so the detectors were running off battery power, which apparently isn’t enough to power the 120x.
Now to make the changes so it is seen as a smoke detector.
Thanks for the help.
Heads up everyone: There’s been a recall for some models (I was notified by Amazon).
Thanks for the heads up.
Bravo kidde, so it turns out they don’t know how to properly manufacture fire extinguishers AND smoke/CO detectors now?
I just order SM120X and CO120X, so I have 2 of WADWAZ-1 I want to use this device, please let me know what the DH I need to use?