What country are you in? The device selection does vary.
binary on/off switch, or dimmer or some of each?
style preferences are always individual. The one you described as “big and clumsy” is actually smaller than one of the ones you described as “small and elegant” so that’s a little confusing. But it looks like you are looking for a standard European style rather than a North American style.
of your preferred styles, one is triple gang and one is double gang. Do you need something that supports triple gang?
your switch box picture and specifications are for a rectangular box but your preferred styles are a standard European square. That makes things complicated. Do you have a picture of a current dumb switch installed in those switch boxes where you like the style?
do you have a neutral wire at each switch box?
what’s the maximum load on each switch? And what current is the mains?
any preferred safety certifications? For example, I myself only use UL listed or ETL listed devices if they will be wired to the mains, but not everyone cares about that.
is this for a single pole application? Or are there any double pole applications?
are there any locations where you want to control the same lamp from more than one switch?
are you willing to consider an inner wall module that fits behind the face plate rather than an all in one device? That usually gives you more style choices.
what units are the dimensions of your switch box, the photo doesn’t say. I’m guessing millimeters, but if so, the dimensions given for the depth in the graphic don’t appear to match the photo. That would be a very, very shallow switchbox if the graphic is correct.
Once we know the answers to those questions, we can be more helpful in making suggestions.
Hey,
About 5 - I added necessary photos to the album (switches I found that are compatible with the box) (The ones eith no label on the photo).
7. I don’t know but added an example to a switch that work for me in the album (Photo 4)
9. Edited in the post.
12. I added fixed photo with the specific dimentions.
It’s pretty hard to start with recommendations without knowing the current and max load. Those are the basic specifications for any switch.
Most homes in Israel are 220v AC, but not all.
Are all the switches limited to controlling a single light fitting with no more than 3 standard lamps in each fitting? No sun lamps, no motorized devices like fans or heaters, no outlet control, no fluorescent tubes, no photography lights, no outdoor floodlights or other very bright security lights? No microwave ovens or other small appliances? No workshop tools? Just trying to get a sense of max load.
(Also I added Israel to the topic title in the hopes that some other community members living there would have some suggestions.)
The house is still under construction, so it is equipped with the newest means available - three-phase electricity, etc. The current and electrical load should not be a problem. Probably also 220v, like the rest of Israel.
The problem would be with the switch, not the wiring. Many home automation devices made for the do it yourself market try to keep costs as low as possible. So some of them are designed only for a couple of standard lamps, they won’t support anything above 10 A, and if you have two channels, that may mean 5 A per channel. it’s enough to safely run a single ceiling fitting with two lamps, but not enough to run a plug-in vacuum cleaner or microwave oven. This is even more true with ones that only have a CE safety rating. so that’s why we have to ask about the planned uses.
Max load for each smart switch still depends on what you specifically are going to do with it.
Are you only looking for Switches/Dimmers to control light fittings? No plug control or fan control? No switches wired to specific devices like an air conditioner?
Your switch boxes are a horizontal rectangle designed for 220v. So since it’s a small market, there just aren’t very many devices designed for your specifications.
That’s why if you are willing to use a in wall module it would help a lot. The problem is, those are either single or dual, I don’t know of any triple and there might not be enough room in the switchbox for two modules.
That’s why I’m hoping some of the other community members from Israel will have some suggestions for you.
Oh, and before we go any further, we should confirm what model number is your hub? In particular are you on EU frequency zwave or North America frequency zwave?
I don’t think that any member in Israel could help me, the market for smart homes in here are very small.
What did you find in the in-wall switches?
And my hub is Aeotec Smart Home Hub in EU frequency.
We do have some forum members in Israel, and if they’re in this forum they have a smart home, so they could at least share what they’ve done. We’ll see if anybody joins the conversation.
As far as inwall double gang modules I know @Mariano_Colmenarejo has looked at quite a few for Europe. He might have some tips or model suggestions. But again, I don’t know what you’re going to do about triple gang. I don’t think there’s room for two modules in your switch box.
OK thank you very much for helping
Can I tag the Israeli members or something? I don’t wanna risk them to miss the post because I need to order all the switches tommorrow or on Tuesday so it’ll come before I move to the house…
Thanks!
My argument against the relay modules that install “behind” switches is that to maintain them, you have to remove the switches themselves. So anytime you’d need to exclude/include (zwave) or re-pair (ZigBee) anything in front has to be disassembled. Cover plates too. With smart switches/dimmers you use the buttons themselves.
I understand the argument, but it’s a question of what options are available. I do have a friend in Vietnam where they also use the horizontal rectangle light switches, who ended up changing everything out for the square shape. But that required replacing the switchbox, not just the switch, and was a much bigger project.
The only double switches I have are two fibaro fgs-223 and they work fine.
To pair it does not need disassemble anything, with 3 quick presses on the dummy switch it is enough to exclude and include.
What you have to do is approach the hub with an Ethernet cable when they are already installed in the wall.
The zigbee devices are easier to pair, i think
There is a very active israel group in the community, maybe @dotan_shai can help you.
