Help Confirm GE Z-Wave Wiring Plan



I am trying to install a GE 12723/ZW2004 Add-on Switch and GE 12724/ZW3005 Smart Switch and know that I need to pull some Neutral wires. Hoping the community could confirm my logic here before I start. These boxes are on a first floor and I have basement access below for stringing new Romex.

Based on the info from this GE 3-way FAQ, I believe the lights are wired like the 2nd “3-way Switch (Power into Light)” diagram:

Using this method (link), I have identified the box with the Load wire (call this “Box A,” like left box above) and the other box with the Line (call this “Box B,” like the right box above).

There is another circuit passing Box B through that DOES have a Neutral bundle, but I would like to avoid using its Neutral because it is not a lighting circuit and I do not want to start tripping breakers.

My plan:

  • Pull new 2-wire Romex to the Box A, effectively adding a Line and Neutral where there were none before
  • Install the GE 12724/ZW3005 Smart Switch in Box A
  • Still in Box A, wire nut (1) of the (2) travelers to the new Neutral (e.g. the taped white one in the diagram)
  • Install the Add-on Switch into Box B, now that Neutral is being provided by an old traveler

As far as I can tell, this is equivalent to:

But physically, the right-most wirenut does not deliver Neutral to the light because it is connected in the ceiling at the light.

The only downside of this plan was that I wanted to use the Smart Switch in the other box because that side of the house already has the SmartThings v2 Hub, and I wanted to maximize the benefit of the repeater functionality. I believe I cannot put put the Smart Switch in the other box unless I pull a Neutral wire to each box.

Can anyone confirm that:

  1. The wiring plan above is sound
  2. I cannot put the Smart Switch in Box A unless I pull two new 2-wire Romex lines


(Michael) #2

Is this circuit on the same breaker as the light?


It is not on the same circuit

(Michael) #4

Your plans on pulling a new wire is fine. Just make sure it’s on the same circuit as your fixture.

Another option is to use the other circuit in box 2 but this will require changing wiring at fixture. Basically you are moving this light to another breaker. Given you have line and neutral from another circuit in that box you have enough wires to make the Aux work in the other switch but again you will need to change the wiring in the fixture to make it work.


Thanks for the replies. I had not thought of rewiring the fixtures with the line and neutral from the other circuit.

Just to be explicit, I forgot to mention that this 3-way circuit has 5 fixtures. Does that affect either of the answer?

I do not think that it will (except for making it potentially more difficult to rewire at the fixture?)

(Michael) #6

It could depends on the load, how many bulbs and wattage. The key is finding the fixture that is powered from switch for wiring.


Thanks ritchierich

I was with you until your last sentence. What is important about finding the fixture that is powered from the switch? Was that only relevant for the “rewire at the fixture” solution?

(Michael) #8

Yes it was to your comment of making it difficult to rewire fixture. If you find the main one you won’t need to touch the others.