Just installed my first light switch. GE 12722 (non dimmer) This is replacing an X-10 dimmer that worked fairly well considering it wasn’t made for LEDs. I had no problem with the wiring…got all 4 wires (inc. the neutral) hooked up just fine. The blue light on the switch is on. When I push the top of the switch, the relay clicks but my light flashes on and turns right off. There are 4 LED candelabra bulbs 40 watt equivalent.
I have tried two switches with the same results. I have not yet tried a switch on an incandescent bulb but I’m sure it should work with LEDs. Any ideas would be appreciated!
40watts is the nominal minimum for some switches. Try replacing one LED with an incandescent. But seems like a 4-wire device should work down to 0.
I will try that. Looking at the package, each bulb is rated to draw 4.8 watts. I must have missed the 40 w minimum in the description of the switch! I think I saw this in an earlier post. I might expect an issue without a neutral but… We are trying to save energy here, right?
I think you might have your wiring reversed. You try swapping your load with your hot and see if that changes anything.
Thanks for all the replies. Here are some things I found out…
- The wires in my switch boxes are not color coded. They are all white. No problem, I figured out which were the load wires.
- There were two bundles of white wires in the box capped off. One was NOT the neutral…oops. Figured that out.
- After switches were working, connecting to system was not a problem…after I read somewhere that pushing the top of the switch AND then the bottom will pair it. That took some time to research. Didn’t see that in the instructions.
Now I’m ready to pursue additional devices. Still looking for the best mobile app to use. I see there are several out there.
What is the easiest way to figure the wires out. I have installed and uninstalled my switch about 5 times now and of course didn’t label the wires. How can you figure out which wire is which?
I am buying a volt meter today but still would love some details.
What helped me was learning that these switches won’t work without a neutral (common) wire. This wire provides constant electricity to the switch so it is always hot. Be careful when handling. If you turn off the circuit breaker to the box, the neutral wire will still be live. Neutral wires are usually white or grey.
The other wires will connect to the two other terminals on the switch. I couldn’t tell which wire was the power wire so I had to try one way then the other. To my knowledge, the switch won’t be damaged if the connections are reversed, it just won’t work.
And of course, the green ground.
Usually, the electrician who wired the house will use the same pattern in all the boxes. Meaning, look at another box and see where the different wires enter the box. For example, in my boxes all the neutral wire bundles come into the box from the same hole.
Hope that wasn’t too confusing!
Here’s how you check for the wires. This of course is for a typical 2 way switch only of course. Remove the switch from your gangbox but don’t disconnect the wires from it. Take a picture for future reference. Put the negative probe of your meter to the white wire (this is your neutral wire). With the switch in the off position. One of the black will have 110v (this is your hot wire) and the other black will be 0v (this is your load wire). Now turn the switch to the on position. Both black should have 110v.
If you are talking about 3 ways switch. Then that’s a different story.
Here’s a good site for reference wiring diagram