So with the talk about the GE switches dropping off the network, and requiring breaker flipping to get them back, is there any consensus that the issue has been fixed with current models? Namely the 12727, 12728, 12729 models?
I’m looking to outfit some of the rooms in my house with these switches, but can hold off if there are still problems being found…
If they are still slightly problematic, are there any other options for “regular” flip switch style smart switches?
And one last question… If I want to integrate these with some more smart bulbs in the future, how would the wiring of the switch go to supply power to the line at all times?
To do this, you can just tie the switch and the bulb directly into the line (black wire from mains), and connect nothing to the load of the switch. Then you’ll connect the switch and the bulb virtually with a SmartApp.
According to @stevesell , he is seeing the same drop off problem with the newest models of switches. So it looks like it’s just some manufacturing issue for them. GE the only brand I’ve heard of that has this problem. And even then, I guess it’s not more than 15% of the devices. So the fact that they’re so cheap may make it worth it to you anyway, you could just replace a switch that dropped off a new model and see if that fixed the problem. It’s a personal decision. I have a bias towards really well engineered devices, and will pay more for them, but many people won’t.
By regular looking switches, do you mean with a stick out toggle instead of a rocker switch?
One thing to note is that even though it’s a toggle, unless you’re actually pressing on it, it sticks straight out. It doesn’t rest in the up or down position. So it will still look different from your other switches if they’re right next to each other.
If you use a micro relay instead, you can put it inside the switch box for the existing switch that you have. It still works as a momentary switch, but it doesn’t change the aesthetics of the room. The Aeotech and fibaro relays are on the official “works with smart things” list and are very popular.
Just to be clear, I’m talking about models 12722, 12723, and 12724 which are the “rocker” style. I don’t know if they are older/newer than the models @talz13 listed above. Maybe they are identical and just a different style (rocker vs. toggle)
Do you have any diagrams, photos, or videos illustrating this installation? I’d like to wire them like this, but just can’t envision how the wiring would look…
It’s pretty simple. You’re just hard-wiring the light to power, so you want to connect line (black) and neutral (white) from the breaker directly to both the switch and the light. Currently, the black wire going to the light should be connected to the “Load” of the switch. You’ll want to remove it from there and connect it directly to the Line. Let’s see if I can make a quick ASCII drawing… Please consider this educational only; check with an electrician if you are unsure!
From Breaker: To Switch: To Light:
line| |neutral line (black)| |neutral (white)
Line(black)---------------------+-|---------------------------+ |
Neutral(white)--------------------+-----------------------------+
EDITED TO ADD: Also, don’t forget the ground, not shown in the picture going to both the light and switch.
So this would be something like, wire nut connecting switch and light line to main line, and wire nut connecting switch and light neutral to main neutral?
Note that although this is generally to code, there are a few jurisdictions that won’t let you do this with current to a light fixture. They are afraid that someone will want to replace a light fixture, Flip the wall switch, start unscrewing things, and electrocute themselves.
Most jurisdictions assume people know to turn things off at the breaker to be safe, but do check your local codes. There are a few exceptions.
