Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

This is what I’m wanting to do, ie replace a standard switch to control a bank of LEDs.

  1. I only have 2 wires into the switch (I’m in UK) that are both live, so will the dimmer 2 work for me? I don’t want to dim just switch on and off, controlled by ST and still allow wife a normal switch.

  2. So the existing wires go to L and the arrow on the diagram. Then 2 new wires would go from the wall switch to S1 and Sx and looped to N?

  3. So a standard looped in live, 2 wire UK wall switch can work? If so this is exactly what I would want, rather than buying numerous smart bulbs.

  4. Can this also do a 2 gang wall switch with the 1 dimmer switch?

  5. Do you have to have it connected with dimmable LEDs? I don’t want to dim,just want on/off, and so mine currently are non-dimmable, will I need to replace with dimmable GU10 LEDs?

  6. Is it fully compatible with UK ST, or does it need any “hacks”?

  7. Is it this one too be exact as I bought a Aeotec Micro Smart Switch (2nd Edition) DSC18103-ZWEU - Z-Wave but can’t access my ceiling rose, as I believe this doesn’t need a neutral either.

Fibaro FGD-212 250 W Universal Dimmer

Hi R2D2,

Our aims appear to be exactly the same!

I’ve been a ST user for a couple of weeks now and I am really enjoying the possibilities that exist!

I have a dimmer 2 (212) in a single gang light switch with a simple on/off faceplate (i.e. not a dimmer), and have also just bought a Bypass 2 to try and get this to work.

Still struggling to get it to work exactly right!

Very interested to know how you get on then please.

What bulbs have you got, dimmable, not-dimmable, what wattage, how many in the bank your trying to control?

What haven’t you got working exactly please? I’ve just ordered today a 212, will be messing at the weekend with it.

I bought ST originally to first and foremost control lighting for security, still haven’t got it did!

I’ve now got 3 Lightify bulbs working fine, however if the wall switch switch is off then ST is defunct, the reason I want this dimmer to work!

Keep us up to date, was hoping someone would have answered my post above (214) for some confirmation…

Don’t put smart dimmable bulbs in a setup where the current to them is controlled by a dimmer device. The bulbs will confuse the switch/relay and vice a versa and you can burn out one or the other.

If you have dimmable smart bulbs, you need to let them control their own current draw. You can use a smart dimmer device which is not controlling current draw, like the hue dimmer switch or the osram lightify smart dimmer. Or the Popp or Z wall-mounted controllers. These are all battery operated, so the bulbs continue to draw the current that they need, these switches just send an instruction.

If you are using the fibaro dimmer, you should be using it with dumb dimmable bulbs. Not smart bulbs.

I’ve got some Samsung Outlets all running table lamps, a couple of door and motion sensors dotted around, but this is my first attempt with another device.

I’m trying to control a single 9W LED bulb, it is dimmable, but I’m not really interested in this feature.

This is the main reason I’m staying away from Philips Hue, as once the light switch is off its rendered useless!

@JDRoberts Thanks, I am indeed using a dumb dimmable bulb.

This used to be true, but there are now a number of devices which can solve this issue.

In particular, as I mentioned, there are now at least four battery-operated switches available in the UK that can be wall-mounted and will work with smart bulbs.

The following thread discusses some of the options. Although it does mention some devices which are only available in the US, like the Cooper, there are others which are only available in Europe, like the Popp, which serve a similar purpose although they have a different form factor. So the approach is the same even if the exact device may be different.

Some UK members have even created 3-D designs as mounting platforms for these.

The Fibaro is an excellent device and serves many use cases very well. So it just comes down to your own particular needs and preferences. But there are definitely more options than there were even six months ago. Choice is good. :sunglasses:

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My Lightify are on separate circuit.

If using the 212 do you HAVE to use dumb dimmable bulbs or can you use non-dimmable, reading around it’s a maybe/maybe not. Also it stays minimum 50W or use the bypass, but again a maybe/maybe not. Mine will be 4 LEDs each 5W each?


The bypass presents a dummy load (which always seems a bit wasteful to me), and is only needed when you are using the dimming function and even then only if you dim the bulbs down to the minimum light level. Without the bypass they might flicker.

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So you think my bank at around 20W, no dimming wanted, non-dimmable bulbs will be ok without a bypass and work fine with the 212 as on/off?

I’m just worried on the “try and see”, i.e. if the bulbs turn off completely is that enough as an ok? No risk electrically then?


It should work just fine. I’d be interested to hear what problems @danmarson is having?

The only thing to be wary of is that you get a UK/EU spec device. If you get a US one (they are often a bit cheaper on eBay) it won’t work with a UK ST hub. (I can see from the label that this isn’t Dan’s problem).

@PailOckenden My current problems are that the dumb switch only seems to turn the light off some of the time, and needs maybe 3 or 4 throws to actually turn the light off.

Also the device was originally added onto ST as a “Home Energy Meter” so I have not yet managed to get the light working through ST either.

The intermittent thing sounds like an RF problem. Have you got another mains powered z-wave device (which should act as a repeater) that you can put half way between your st hub and the light switch?

Ot can you position the fibaro antenna wire differently?

What device handler should you change it to after its detected by ST in the IDE also?

Is there a procedure in the thread on how exactly to add it and set it up? Device handler in IDE etc?


Interesting, I’ll have a move around with the antenna tomorrow, The Dimmer is in the room above the ST Hub so I wouldn’t have thought it would be a problem. Happy to try anything!

In the IDE I changed the device type to Fibaro Dimmer, and it appears correctly in the iOS app, but still not behaving correctly at the bulb.


@R2D2 I have this working now!

I couldn’t sleep on this and wouldn’t let it beat me.

The problem seemed to be with the device type itself.

@PailOckenden I did move the antenna around within the backbox, but there is limited space in there, so you can only do so much. The device was getting discovered easily so it must be okay.

I read back through this thread and had a look at @rmbhatia device type code, started using this and boom, dumb switch and ST app working as expected.

I made a few changes to the tiles like removing the dimmer slider from view, as I don’t need it.

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Can you elaborate please, still learning ST. Which post about the code in here please?

So you had to publish some code in the IDE or something. Sorry for noob questions but I’m not a coder so everything I look on here to help!!

Great to see you got it working though. Hopefully can iron out so mine works straight away!!

Have you had a chance to look at the custom code FAQ yet? It might give you a good overview of how the process works for any device, not just this one.

Would the Fibaro FGD-212 be ok if I installed it this way…

Rather than getting a bigger back box as I have a stud wall, I removed the back box and where it’s mounted I could “shove” it above the back box, extend the required wires with “choccy” block and poke what’s required back into the back box.

Would it still be able to communicate with the ST hub like this on another floor?

I can’t fit a bigger back box in here with the way the stud wall is and strut across to fix the back box to.


My understanding is that this can compromise fire safety.

Instead, there are two good options.

One) find a different place on the circuit to put the relay. This is often at the ceiling rose. You may have more space to work with there.

Two) use a box extender that extends the box forward rather than back. These can be made to look quite nice with the appropriate face plate. These are often listed as a “surface mount pattress box” or as an “extension collar.” They come in a variety of colors and materials, as well as different depths. Don’t get a metal one, or you won’t be able to get signal through.

Oh don’t like the sound of this, why is it a fire hazard? Does it have to be in a metal box?

Extending out is a no go afraid, they are flush mounted to start with, where this switch is also in the middle of a wall with nothing but this, so even if did extend out it would be an eye sore.

I can’t access the ceiling rose, I did have an AeoTec relay that required a neutral and tried but it’s all hidden so sent back, heard this didn’t need a neutral so was happy…until now…

What’s the risk, or requirements, maybe another small box if I can access stud wall?