Don’t put smart dimmable bulbs in a setup where the current to them is controlled by a dimmer device. The bulbs will confuse the switch/relay and vice a versa and you can burn out one or the other.
If you have dimmable smart bulbs, you need to let them control their own current draw. You can use a smart dimmer device which is not controlling current draw, like the hue dimmer switch or the osram lightify smart dimmer. Or the Popp or Z wave.me wall-mounted controllers. These are all battery operated, so the bulbs continue to draw the current that they need, these switches just send an instruction.
If you are using the fibaro dimmer, you should be using it with dumb dimmable bulbs. Not smart bulbs.
This used to be true, but there are now a number of devices which can solve this issue.
In particular, as I mentioned, there are now at least four battery-operated switches available in the UK that can be wall-mounted and will work with smart bulbs.
The following thread discusses some of the options. Although it does mention some devices which are only available in the US, like the Cooper, there are others which are only available in Europe, like the Popp, which serve a similar purpose although they have a different form factor. So the approach is the same even if the exact device may be different.
Some UK members have even created 3-D designs as mounting platforms for these.
The Fibaro is an excellent device and serves many use cases very well. So it just comes down to your own particular needs and preferences. But there are definitely more options than there were even six months ago. Choice is good.
If using the 212 do you HAVE to use dumb dimmable bulbs or can you use non-dimmable, reading around it’s a maybe/maybe not. Also it stays minimum 50W or use the bypass, but again a maybe/maybe not. Mine will be 4 LEDs each 5W each?
The bypass presents a dummy load (which always seems a bit wasteful to me), and is only needed when you are using the dimming function and even then only if you dim the bulbs down to the minimum light level. Without the bypass they might flicker.
It should work just fine. I’d be interested to hear what problems @danmarson is having?
The only thing to be wary of is that you get a UK/EU spec device. If you get a US one (they are often a bit cheaper on eBay) it won’t work with a UK ST hub. (I can see from the label that this isn’t Dan’s problem).
Would the Fibaro FGD-212 be ok if I installed it this way…
Rather than getting a bigger back box as I have a stud wall, I removed the back box and where it’s mounted I could “shove” it above the back box, extend the required wires with “choccy” block and poke what’s required back into the back box.
Would it still be able to communicate with the ST hub like this on another floor?
I can’t fit a bigger back box in here with the way the stud wall is and strut across to fix the back box to.
My understanding is that this can compromise fire safety.
Instead, there are two good options.
One) find a different place on the circuit to put the relay. This is often at the ceiling rose. You may have more space to work with there.
Two) use a box extender that extends the box forward rather than back. These can be made to look quite nice with the appropriate face plate. These are often listed as a “surface mount pattress box” or as an “extension collar.” They come in a variety of colors and materials, as well as different depths. Don’t get a metal one, or you won’t be able to get signal through.