Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

You need to enable parameter 28 to start with, that will get both S1 and S2 transmitting on the Z-Wave network when pushed. That’s as far as I’ve got. Please let me know if you get anywhere with this, as I’d dearly love S2 to be a ‘smart switch’.

I’ve got a Fibaro Dimmer 2 setup with a toggle switch, a bypass and the custom device and most of the time it works well.
There are times when it will switch on (1/2sec), off (1/2sec), on-off(1/2sec), on(1/2sec) and can get stuck in that cycle.
I have an Ikea PS 2014 light (Nicknamed the deathstar) that states:
“Due to the built-in overheating protection this lamp can only be used with an energy efficient light bulb, max. 13 watts”

Would my guess be right that the Bypass is puching the load over 13 watts and the Ikea light is doing the cycled switching on off?

I suppose I can try it without the bypass, or look to remove the overheat protection from the Ikea light…

I.

I Doubt that is your problem, the bypass wont increase the load at the light. That is fixed.
The over heating protection is likely to be just a thermal cut out. I would not expect this to cycle anywhere near this quick.

Are there any other lights on this circuit? Overload
Did you calibrate it with the bypass? From memory I think there is a specific setting to calibrate it with the bypass to the one without a bypass.

If this happens at the same times, I would think more likely you have some rules or logic conflicts causing it.

(Copied from a Project thread)

My understanding, which may be wrong, is that the use of S2 changed a little bit between the first version of the Fibaro dimmer and the second version.

With the second version, you have a couple of options.

  1. You can use it in a regular two-way where there are two dumb physical switches both on the same circuit with the dimmer module.

  2. or you can use it with just one physical switch so that S1 controls the load on the same circuit that the dimmer module is on. And you can use S2 via Z wave association in association groups four and five to send “basic” (that’s a Z wave term) commands to other zwave devices that support association. Those devices have to be within one hop of the dimmer module, but they don’t have to be on the same circuit. The SmartThings hub will not know that those commands were sent, which can cause the status to get out of sync.

But I don’t think anyone has 3) created a device handler to use this as what SmartThings calls a “button controller” where instead of sending Z wave commands directly to the other devices in the association group, the dimmer module would send the command to the hub who could then send it to any SmartThings-controlled device, regardless of protocol or how far away it was from the dimmer module.

So you should be able to do option 2) pretty much out of the box once you have the configuration set up, but it will only work with Z wave devices that support Association and are within one hop of the dimmer module. Which is how standard zwave association works, it’s just that you can do a lot more with SmartThings if you can set the device up as a button controller instead. :sunglasses:

I’m glad you’ve picked up on this, as I certainly rate your knowledge! I have Dimmer 2s (212). In a ‘two way’ scenario as you describe in 1), I have not used S2 at all. I’m using momentary switches, so that might be different for toggle switch scenarios, I don’t know. The Vesternet diagrams suggest not though.

It’s the third scenario we’re interested in here though, and I may have made assumptions before understanding how Z-Wave works properly. The second is good, and for all intents and purposes will probably be ‘ok’ most of the time as you’d want to control something else in the room.

So, yes, I’d like to use S2 as a button controller and get it to talk to the hub directly :slightly_smiling:

What you say about transmissions only going a single hop might scupper that though. Is that something that’s defined in the term ‘Basic Command’? From the manual it looks like S2 can be a ‘Scene Controller’ which is effectively what the Popp switch is. Have I put 2+2 together and made 5?

You’re on track. :sunglasses: The one hop issue only applies to option two in my post above. Button controller removes that limitation because in that set up the switch (or in this case the dimmer module) talks to the hub and then the hub sends the request to the end device. So You’re fine up to four hops each way. The single hop is a limitation of Direct association in Z wave.

Zwave scene controllers vs SmartThings button controllers

“Scene controller” is actually a whole different thing then what we were talking about. Typically that means the device is using the Z wave scene command sets, not the basic command set.

But if you’re using a SmartThings “button controller” device handler you’re not using the zwave scene commands. The end result will hopefully look the same to the people using the switch, but the big advantage is that you can include devices of multiple protocols in the same “scene,” which you can’t do with a Z wave scene controller.

So for example a button controller like the Aeon minimote could use a single button press to turn on all the lights in the room, even if some of those lights were zigbee smart bulbs and some were on a zwave dimmer module. :wink:

I just honestly don’t know if the Fibaro dimmer module can be set up this way or not.

Setting Association Groups 4 or 5

BTW, for anyone who does want to try option two or three above with the Fibaro, you’re going to need a way to set association groups four and five. You can’t do that with a minimote, or just with the devices themselves. so You need something that can send the zwave instructions to do these associations.

Some controllers have an association feature in the UI which lets the controller do it that way. SmartThings as yet does not.

Fortunately @Duncan, senior Zwave engineer at SmartThings, has previously posted code to allow people to set up associations for two-way lights even if they didn’t have a minimote. It does allow you to set the Association group ID as well, so you’ll be able to use it for groups four and five.

You’ll have to temporarily Assign the Fibaro module to an accessory switch device handler, but you just change it back to the actual device handler once the association groups are set.

Anyway, just in case someone wants to use this feature, here’s the link to the thread explaining his code:

remember that in lighting set ups, the accessory controls the master

Remember that in a lighting set up the accessory controls the master, that is you press the accessory switch and it tells the master switch to power the lights on or off. So for what we’re talking about here with Association groups , you want the fibaro module set up the way the other thread discusses setting up an accessory switch, so that the Fibaro will be able to tell the other device to turn on or off.

If someone does already have a Fibaro dimmer module or the relay set up as a SmartThings button controller, let us know. :sunglasses: That would be especially nice functionality for UK households where there are so few switch options as yet.

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Well, I do have a minimote. I also have a grid style double retractive switch.

I think it’s time to get it wired up!

Thanks for this

I just wired in my first Fibaro.

Weirdly it got recognised as a home energy meter!

I applied your code. It now switches on and off (from the toggle switch on the wall and updates correct state on my phone)

On my phone though there is a dimmer slider. This part does not function at all.

Is there a way to get that to work? I would like to be able to use rule things to have the switch come on at different levels depending on time of day etc.

Thanks

Andrew

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I have some problems with this device. I have installed it and have used the custom code from RMbhatia. It now switches on and off at the wall using the toggle switch there. It also updates status on my phone and will switch on and off on the phone. But I would like to be able to dim it from my phone (and this does not work using the slider) and use it in some rules in rule machine.

Has anyone been able to get the dimmer function to work from their phone? Or from a toggle switch?

Thanks

Andrew

I have solved this with a bit of fiddling. I changed the parameter in line 232 of the code (parameter number 32) to 0. It now switches on and off at the wall. But it also allows the dimming to be set by the phone. In addition, the light turns on and off with a nice dim up and down feature!

sweet

Andrew

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Can anyone help with a bit of wiring advice? The switch on the left is the one I want to use for my Fibaro Dimmer, but I’m unsure as to the best / correct way to wire it up. Anyone able to help?


This is the diagram you should use. Your red wire (Live) Goes into L on the dimmer. Your switched return (black with red sleeving) goes into the switch output. You can ignore the second dotted switch.

You also want to change parameter 20 to 1 for a toggle switch and parameter 26 to 0 to disable S2.

I hope you have enough room in that box. it looks a little tight to me.

Thanks for this - very much appreciated. The knockout box originally was smaller than that, the picture actually shows it after I swapped it out for a larger one (47mm).

I’m hoping it’ll fit but we’ll see!

Actually - just re-read the above is that right…? The blue with red sleeving is for the other switch i.e. nothing to do with the switch I’m wanting to control (the one on the left).

I presume you mean put the black wire (which is currently in the L1 terminal) into the Output Terminal of the Dimmer?

Sorry, yes I meant black and typed blue!

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Works a treat! Bit of a squeeze in the knockout box, but managed to screw it all back up! Thanks again!

This is what I’m wanting to do, ie replace a standard switch to control a bank of LEDs.

  1. I only have 2 wires into the switch (I’m in UK) that are both live, so will the dimmer 2 work for me? I don’t want to dim just switch on and off, controlled by ST and still allow wife a normal switch.

  2. So the existing wires go to L and the arrow on the diagram. Then 2 new wires would go from the wall switch to S1 and Sx and looped to N?

  3. So a standard looped in live, 2 wire UK wall switch can work? If so this is exactly what I would want, rather than buying numerous smart bulbs.

  4. Can this also do a 2 gang wall switch with the 1 dimmer switch?

  5. Do you have to have it connected with dimmable LEDs? I don’t want to dim,just want on/off, and so mine currently are non-dimmable, will I need to replace with dimmable GU10 LEDs?

  6. Is it fully compatible with UK ST, or does it need any “hacks”?

  7. Is it this one too be exact as I bought a Aeotec Micro Smart Switch (2nd Edition) DSC18103-ZWEU - Z-Wave https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JGSDJKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OsvfxbYEKR1J6) but can’t access my ceiling rose, as I believe this doesn’t need a neutral either.

Fibaro FGD-212 250 W Universal Dimmer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012X0I8JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZqvfxbVKYAC9T

Hi R2D2,

Our aims appear to be exactly the same!

I’ve been a ST user for a couple of weeks now and I am really enjoying the possibilities that exist!

I have a dimmer 2 (212) in a single gang light switch with a simple on/off faceplate (i.e. not a dimmer), and have also just bought a Bypass 2 to try and get this to work.

Still struggling to get it to work exactly right!

Very interested to know how you get on then please.

What bulbs have you got, dimmable, not-dimmable, what wattage, how many in the bank your trying to control?

What haven’t you got working exactly please? I’ve just ordered today a 212, will be messing at the weekend with it.

I bought ST originally to first and foremost control lighting for security, still haven’t got it did!

I’ve now got 3 Lightify bulbs working fine, however if the wall switch switch is off then ST is defunct, the reason I want this dimmer to work!

Keep us up to date, was hoping someone would have answered my post above (214) for some confirmation…

Don’t put smart dimmable bulbs in a setup where the current to them is controlled by a dimmer device. The bulbs will confuse the switch/relay and vice a versa and you can burn out one or the other.

If you have dimmable smart bulbs, you need to let them control their own current draw. You can use a smart dimmer device which is not controlling current draw, like the hue dimmer switch or the osram lightify smart dimmer. Or the Popp or Z wave.me wall-mounted controllers. These are all battery operated, so the bulbs continue to draw the current that they need, these switches just send an instruction.

If you are using the fibaro dimmer, you should be using it with dumb dimmable bulbs. Not smart bulbs.