Experience or comments about NuTone switches? (2016)

I’m looking at purchasing a few of these switches:

NuTone NWS15Z 15 Amp Smart Z-Wave Enabled Wall Switch

Does anyone have any experience or comments on using these with ST?

They are discontinued by Nutone and there aren’t many options or features.
For example: factory reset, pairing, etc.

I have a couple. @John_Schutzman what do you mean by no pairing or reset. The instructions are pretty clear how to do that. For the price they are great for smart light switches.

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You are replying to a post which is three years old, and a lot has changed in that time. :wink:

In any case, most of the Nutone Z wave devices are just rebranded Nortek/linear/GoControl devices. I believe that’s true for this one, it’s the same as the older Linear WS15 and should have the same features. Note that this is not a Z wave plus device. As @Jwwhite said, it can definitely be paired and reset.

The price is lower on the Nutone because Nutone has discontinued that line. However, It’s old technology now. Personally, if I were buying new switches I would pay the extra to get the Zwave plus ones. :sunglasses:

I did not catch that the post was 3 years old. My bad.

Yeah I guess the plus would be better, but on a budget and for my use they are fine.

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The instructions are basically “follow your controllers instructions”
Other smart devices, even cheap WI-Fi units from China, typically have a “hold down button for 3-5 seconds” type process to put it into pairing mode or reset it.

The Nutone from what I’ve gathered, pairs when you 1st power it on. You don’t really have control over putting into a pairing mode like Bluetooth, WI-Fi, or even Z-wave door sensors.

My instructions says push button one time to pair, two times to unpair. Pair worked as stated. Didn’t try unpair.

Nutone May have A poorly written set of instructions, but you can definitely put these into pairing mode, people do it all the time.

Here are the manufacturer’s instructions. You put the controller into inclusion, which is the “add a device“ in the SmartThings app, and then It’s just a double tap on the switch

Classic inclusion: Tap the button twice
• To remove a node: Tap the button twice
STEP 3. You should see an indication on your Controller that the “device was included” in the network.

The “follow your controller’s instructions” verbiage usually applies to getting your hub ready to add a device. But having the switch accept the inclusion command is always the same, and on most zwave switches it’s just a physical tap pattern.

JD I think those instructions say tap once, not twice.

After looking again, it says both. I used one.

It says the device automatically goes into inclusion mode when first powered up. That’s probably what happened with yours. :sunglasses: Or if you have a full path back to the hub with networkwide inclusion (that’s with the NWi is) And you are including a bunch of devices at once, then you can use the single tap.

I guess I’m confused as to what you are saying. Or I’m confused about what the instructions say.
They say “To add a node: NWI: Tap the button once. This can be done on power up…”
I don’t see where it says it automatically goes into inclusion mode when first powered up.

None of this makes any difference, or at least not to me, I’m just curious about the whole thing. So please don’t take this as doubting what you are saying, I’m just trying to understand.

I have one more of these I haven’t used yet. I might experiment with it to see how it actually works.

No, you’re right, I was wrong. My bad. As I mentioned elsewhere, I’m having some vision issues so the stuff that can’t be read with the text to speech readers hard for me. It’s saying at the time that you power it on you can then do a network wide inclusion and just use one tap. But if you are using classic inclusion, then two taps.

As we mentioned, this is an old device, and at the time the instructions were written there were probably a lot of hubs out there that didn’t do network wide inclusion yet. So they’re telling you you could do it either way, depending on the hub you have.

@JDRoberts, I sure appreciate you on this forum. I have learned a lot reading your posts. And I certainly didn’t mean to quesition you on this issue, just wanted to clarify. So forgive me if I inadvertantly offended.

In any event I guess we answered the original posters question, even if it was 3 years old…:slight_smile:

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No offense taken, I appreciate the correction. :sunglasses: I just misread the user manual, my error.

I don’t have the same vision problem you have, but at my age that small print becomes a challenge also…:grin:

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So I am the recipient of a pair of the NuTone versions of these switches. Documentation on them is as expected, poor. Can anyone tell me…

#1. What is the minimum load required? I don’t see one listed.
#2. Will these work with flourescent fixtures with LED conversion bulbs?

I wanted these switches to control the kitchen fixture, a 4 tube flourescent fixture fitted with 4 FEIT T8 / T12 direct replacement LED tubes, and my garage workshop that has 7 2 tube T12 shop lights soon enough to be fitted iwth FEIT T8 / T12 direct replacement LED tubes. Even with the flourescent tubes I am within the upper limit on the switch, and it is a non dimming switch, not sure why there would be any issue switching a circuit on and off. Not like it is a complex task.

Exact model number?

Also, just as a general comment, you should not use a dimming switch with non-dimmable bulbs even if you only intend to use it as an on/off switch unless that particular model has a parameter which lets it be set to operate as on/off.

The physics are just different for dimming switches and 100% bright is often not the same as just on. This is particularly an issue for LEDs and fluorescents.

NuTone NWS15Z as best I know. I don’t have them in hand yet, probably tomorrow…

Yeah, I kind of messed up and currently have the Zen27 hooked up to the 4 tube non dimmable LEDs… Ugh. I am ready to fix this and I am going to either just go with a dumb switch or the NuTone… Hoping for the NuTone.

That’s a standard on/off switch. It should work with any kind of lightbulb, including fluorescent. There’s no minimum load. It’s just a relay that cuts power.


The switch is compatible with all incandescent, fluorescent, compact fluorescent, halogen and LED lighting, with a capacity of up to 600 watts, resistive loads up to 15A and motors up to 1/2 HP. 's

Minimum load and type of load generally only matter with dimmer switches, which are a completely different kind of device.

That is what I kind of figured, however. Good to know for sure! SInce NuTone was reselling someone else’s devices, and has since sold off that part of their business off… So bupkis for support I guess…

Smart switches / Zwave switches are certainly a different animal from standard dumb switches.

FWIW, I found a long time ago standard dimmers that have a normal on / off function work no problem with flourescent bulbs, however not not having the same results with smart switches…