The links I already gave you should be enough to get started on devices. But we will also throw in the device class FAQ if you want to look at switches that you would use with dumb bulbs, not smart bulbs. The discussion of light switches starts around post 40 in that thread
But here’s the critical bit that you may not have yet internalized:
Most smart bulbs are intended to always be on power. It will say that in the manufacturer’s user guide. That’s so the bulb can hear the next “on” command from the network even if it appears to be off.
If you put these bulbs on a regular switch, either a binary on/off switch or a dimmer switch, which changes the amount of current that the bulb receives, then the next time you use the switch to increase the current you can have a problem because of something called “inrush current” where the current is very high when the switch first activates. Overtime this can damage the radio inside the bulb and significantly increase the cost of what are already expensive bulbs.
If you just have an occasional power outage two or three times a year, that won’t be an issue. But if you are using the switch to vary the current to the bulb multiple times a week, you will probably reduce the lifetime of the bulb by 25% or even more.
And you should never put a dimmable smart bulb so that it is controlled by a dimmer switch (smart or dumb) that varies the current as you can also burn out the switch itself and create a safety hazard.
If you want to put it on a binary on/off switch (smart or dumb) that just operates as a relay you won’t have the same safety issue, but you will reduce the working life of the bulb if you are using that switch a lot.
Fortunately, there are many different ways to add a switch, either on/off or dimmer, Which doesn’t itself vary the current flow to the bulb, but instead just triggers a network instruction to the bulb to make a change. That’s what you’ve been doing up to now with the Phillips hue battery operated dimmer switches.
There are other battery operated switches you can get. There are switches that fit over the top of the existing mains powered switch. There are also mains power switches Which do not control the current “load” to the light fixture but just use a radio to send a message to the hub which then sends a message to the bulb. Or, as @nathancu Mentioned, you can even in some cases wire a switch model which was designed to control the current load so that the load itself is bypassed.
So in general a GE smart switch, which does control the current load, would only be used with dumb bulbs, not smart bulbs. However, some people do wire it in such a way that the switch is not actually controlling the current to the smart bulb. You can do that, and it will be to code in most places in the US except attics, but It’s important to understand that if you choose that particular method you will lose one of your other requirements, because the switch will not turn the bulbs off unless your home automation system is working. Precisely because it is not controlling the current directly.
All of these various options are included in the discussion is that I already gave you the links to. I just wanted to give you a heads up that you can’t just take a regular GE smart master dimmer switch, wire it into the wall Following the directions in the user guide, screw in a smart lightbulb, And get good results. Because then you would have a smart dimmer directly changing the current to a smart bulb, and that is not a good idea.
But read the threads I’ve already given you the links for, and you will see a lot of different possible options.