Any 2 wire switches for CFL/LED?

I’ve been googling for an hour already – with no luck.

I need a couple of product recommends:

I need one z-wave wall switch and one z-wave wall dimmer switch that have:

  • Two wires + a neutral. (They are just switching circuits - I can’t use the Evolve Linear load wire configuration)
  • The ability to handle CFL and LED bulbs.
  • The ability to function with loads as low as 10watts.
  • No buzz, hum etc.

Basically, I need something that does what this switch does (passing a small current through when off) to keep the switch powered – but with CFL/LEDs.

Can anyone suggest some options?

In this thread:

I asked a similar question. I ended up using a Linear WD500Z-1 dimmer and a Linear WS15Z-1 non-dimmimg switch. The dimmer has a low wattage LED bulb in it and it works great. No hum, dims down smoothly. I’m very happy with it. The only downside is that the switch takes up a lot of room in the wall box and is a tight fit.

Thanks – but I can’t use those.

All of the Linear switches require a blue wire – a separate load wire – and can not run off of a switching wire alone.

I need one that only requires a White, Black and bare copper ground wire.

Or, perhaps some sort of work around that does not require running a wire?

Sorry about that. I misunderstood your question. So you want a switch that doesn’t control an actual load but just one that send out zwave commands?

Maybe the Linear slave switch (sorry not sure of the model number) that is intended to be used in 3-way scenarios would work. I’ve not used one of those yet so I’m not sure how it would work without a master switch but it might be worth investigating.

You don’t have many options without a neutral. I know because I have the same situation where it is just too difficult rewiring.

You could retrofit a switch with this unit:

But they seem to be out of stock. It also requires Fibaro Dimmer Bypass for loads less than 25W and even that I’m not sure it will dim in real low wattage situations (just on/off).

Other manufacturers pulled their products without neutral because of reliability and functional issues.

The wiring situation I have is that power goes through the octagonal box in the ceiling where the light is attached – and then a 3 core (2 insulated wire plus neutral) descends from the ceiling to the switch box.

Power definitely goes through the switch box – but only to turn that ceiling light on or off.

Beckwith: Am I understanding correctly that the switch wire would be permanently connected to feed a z-wave switch – and then wired onto that unit which would be installed in the octagonal box to do the actual control of the load?

Yes. The Z-Wave switch basically needs power all the time so it needs a hot and neutral (white) wire to the switch and then a load wire to the light. If you have this you are golden.

If you only have one wire to the switch and one to the light without a neutral, your options are fewer.

@kataflok, I have the same situation in many of my switch boxes. I ended up using a separate 3-button zigbee switch and Link bulbs per the advice of another ST user. In case it’s helpful:

@sjansen, Thanks – But I can’t replace bulbs in these for a whole variety of really annoying reasons…

@beckwith, Unfortunately, I don’t have all of those wires to the switch.

It looks like what I really need is some sort of z-wave module to put right in the Octagonal box the LED/CFL light fixture itself is attached to (Where there actually is Black, White, Neutral and Load wires) and then a battery powered (or repurposed switching wire powered) switch to put in the wall box.

The Fibaro one looks to be sold out. Is there any other product like it (Or that would accomplish the above) that works with Smart Things?

You’re lucky to have both hot and neutral at the light fixture box

Do you have conduit? If so, you can pull a neutral wire from the fixture to the wall switch. This is your ideal solution. I’ve done that in a couple of cases.

Otherwise, you can make the load wire from the switch a neutral and use a powered wall switch and then associate it with a microswitch in the light fixture. The powered wall switch would turn on the light fixture through the software like you were considering with the wireless wall switch. There are tradeoffs you will have to consider but it is doable. I have one switch done like this.