I asked a similar question. I ended up using a Linear WD500Z-1 dimmer and a Linear WS15Z-1 non-dimmimg switch. The dimmer has a low wattage LED bulb in it and it works great. No hum, dims down smoothly. I’m very happy with it. The only downside is that the switch takes up a lot of room in the wall box and is a tight fit.
Sorry about that. I misunderstood your question. So you want a switch that doesn’t control an actual load but just one that send out zwave commands?
Maybe the Linear slave switch (sorry not sure of the model number) that is intended to be used in 3-way scenarios would work. I’ve not used one of those yet so I’m not sure how it would work without a master switch but it might be worth investigating.
The wiring situation I have is that power goes through the octagonal box in the ceiling where the light is attached – and then a 3 core (2 insulated wire plus neutral) descends from the ceiling to the switch box.
Power definitely goes through the switch box – but only to turn that ceiling light on or off.
Beckwith: Am I understanding correctly that the switch wire would be permanently connected to feed a z-wave switch – and then wired onto that unit which would be installed in the octagonal box to do the actual control of the load?
@sjansen, Thanks – But I can’t replace bulbs in these for a whole variety of really annoying reasons…
@beckwith, Unfortunately, I don’t have all of those wires to the switch.
It looks like what I really need is some sort of z-wave module to put right in the Octagonal box the LED/CFL light fixture itself is attached to (Where there actually is Black, White, Neutral and Load wires) and then a battery powered (or repurposed switching wire powered) switch to put in the wall box.
The Fibaro one looks to be sold out. Is there any other product like it (Or that would accomplish the above) that works with Smart Things?
You’re lucky to have both hot and neutral at the light fixture box
Do you have conduit? If so, you can pull a neutral wire from the fixture to the wall switch. This is your ideal solution. I’ve done that in a couple of cases.
Otherwise, you can make the load wire from the switch a neutral and use a powered wall switch and then associate it with a microswitch in the light fixture. The powered wall switch would turn on the light fixture through the software like you were considering with the wireless wall switch. There are tradeoffs you will have to consider but it is doable. I have one switch done like this.