5 in. or 6 in. Commercial Electric Smart LED Downlight

Devices & Integrations
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Wrap each friction prong in electrical tape, and put it back in the recessed can. You can thank dspin below. I had the same issue and this fixed it.

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Hey everyone. I’m working on a better device handler for the 4-inch and the 5/6-inch models. Handles the correct ranges of temperature, has the correct temperature names and ranges based on Google Home’s understanding, has persistent settings for brightness and temperature change rates, and even support some blinking as an alarm and notification device. I’ll have it ready for publish soon, just cleaning the code and UI up.

1 Like
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First draft commit here: https://github.com/gtabmx/SmartThings

Taking any and all feedback. I can make changes very quickly, and I’m fairly active.

EDIT: The first unlabelled slider tile is the level change rate, and the second is the temperature change rate. Keep in mind, these rates are defined as the time it would take for the light to go from max to min. So half the change would result in half the specified time, etc.

EDIT 2: The 5051K is for the downlights. The 6536K is for the Commercial Electric GU10 lights of the same functionality (which are being discontinued by the way!!! They were $17!).

3 Likes
85

I picked up one to test out. A big negative for me in THIS situation, if you turn the light off via Alexa / smartthings, when you try to turn it back on via physical switch ( flip switch off, then on), it remains off. It seems to remember it’s last state ( dimmed, color temp, on / off state) , unlike the normal behavior for smart lights ( ie. philips hue will turn on to default brightness and color temp regardless of previous state / color). Normally this would be great for situations like when you lose power, when the power comes back, all your lights on max brightness ( not fun at 4am in the morning), but in my use-case scenario, I would like to yell at Alexa to turn the hallway light on when the kids leave it on in the morning after getting clothes for school, but then when the lady gets up she needs to be able to turn the light back on without talking to Alexa. Is there a way to set this in the firmware somehow?

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I often read comments of people having issues getting the lights to come back to the status that they want. I just wanted to share my setup and how it’s working for me.

In my Family Room I have 6 of these downlights on a GE Smart On/Off Switch named as of such:

  • “Family Room Lights” (GE Smart On/Off Switch)
  • "Family Room 1" (CE Smart Downlight)
  • “Family Room 2” (CE Smart Downlight)
  • “Family Room 3” (CE Smart Downlight)
  • “Family Room 4” (CE Smart Downlight)
  • “Family Room 5” (CE Smart Downlight)
  • “Family Room 6” (CE Smart Downlight)

I run downlights 1 & 2 Off (They’re right above my mounted TV on both sides) and I run downlights 4 - 6 at 1%. (1% is bright on these when you have 4+ of them). When I want to turn all of them off no matter their illuminated state, I either hit the GE Smart Switch or tell Alexa to “Turn Off Family Room Lights” (which turns off the switch only). This does disconnect them from my ST Hub, but for me, this is not a negative result. When I want to turn them all on, I again either hit the switch manually or ask Alexa to “Turn on Family Room Lights”. This results in downlights 4 - 6 illuminating back to 1% and downlights 1 & 2 being powered to 0%/Off.

Now Disclaimer: I just switched to ST from Wink this past weekend, so the next statements will be what I did on Wink, which I know can be done on ST but I haven’t set up yet as I’m still bringing everything online.

When I want to change the brightness/dimness I have a few options, I go into my Family Room downlights group in Wink and change the slider, it kicks downlights 1 & 2 on as well and changes to whatever brightness/dimness + color temperature I selected. If I want downlights 1 & 2 off again, I either do so via manually turning both off in the app or triggering Alexa to turn off Family Room 1 and Family Room 2. Of course, I can even go further by making scenes to do all this for me as I want it that can be triggered via Alexa or the App that turns the switch on and adjusts the downlights to whatever brightness/dimness + color temperature I want.

To me, this is the proper setup to run smart downlights in a home. Doing any other way results in headaches. I know there’s more than likely scenarios people will want to know “what I do” in, so feel free to ask what my solutions are.

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I can probably add something in the device handler state that causes the light to turn on if its been unreachable for some arbitrary time,and then becomes reachable. Obviously this would be an option. I’ll look into it.

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Found these on clearance at Home Depot for $7.53 a piece. YMMV

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Canada or US?

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I just bought a few at $8. Added it then when and changed it to the Zigbee White 
 in the device settings. I am using SmartThings.

Notice that you can’t change the color. Also noticed that Alexa cannot find.
I use the SmartThings app.

Any ideas how to get Alexa to discover?

thanks

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I decided to drop the ge downlight. Although it was just plug and play, I decided to go the hard way and refit my cans for philips hue color br30s (huge pain since the previous people caulked? around the recessed lighting, which was 6 inch trim rings, and the cans only actually fit 5 inch rings, so now we have to create our own trim covers to cover up the damage / miscuts) . I figured the extra $20 per light was worth it to get nice color effects. Additionally, since whoever wired my basement crappy (8 total lights, but they all flicker when using 2 GE Zwave dimmers, but not classic switches) it works out better because I added a hue dimmer remote. Me and the lady have been putting up with lights flickering randomly when set to different levels for the past year so she’s pretty happy that’s fixed.

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Also picked a couple up at $7.53 here in San Diego. I don’t think they will be around much longer,

gtabmx - I used your DH and it works well. Some comments: The change rates (at least for me) have too wide a range. I would be happy if you limited it to the range which is currently 1-25. Also it seems like their positions should be swapped. If the color temperature rate slider were right below the color temperature I think it would make more sense. Then if you put the other slider all the way to the right, it would be below the dimming side. Otherwise I like your work!

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I found them in San Jose, CA.

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Got my issue resolved via chat with Customer Support (my original message below)

If I understand correctly from what I read here, it seems like if I use a smart switch for these, then the switch will be able to overwrite the app command, e.g., if I turn off the light in the app, I can turn on with my switch. However, I am currently not being able to do that with my Wemo LightSwitch. Do I have to add the Wemo to ST Hub as well? The Wemo has been working well without a hub so far, I can control it with my Alexa just fine.

Btw the correct link to change handler that the Customer support gave me is:
https://graph-na04-useast2.api.smartthings.com/

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I bought a bunch of these Downlights but unable to add to Smartthings Hub. It always shows as Tiles Missing and I can’t do anything from there; logging to the https://graph.api.smartthings.com doesn’t show the device. Can anyone help here? Thank you

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Hey Joelw-

I have this same downlight and it used to disconnect from my network all the time. Like once a week. Finally I’d had enough and swapped it for another one from the HD, and that one has been trouble free for a year.

I’m not to certain about the QC in some of these zigbee bulbs. What can you expect for a cutting edge LED bulb + radio, all for $20 or whatever this thing cost? Sometimes you get a bad one.

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Sorry I went MIA. Life. I’ve still been updating the DH during the last year. Taking requests for features or bug reports.

1 Like
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Hello, been reading lots of how to connect the CE downlight to the SmartThings system. But I am awash in terminology of device handlers and api’s.

Any chance I can be pointed in a newbie direction


Cheers,
Richard

PS- I can deploy a wifi network that 10,000 people connect to for a festival
 but this is confusing the hell out of me.

1 Like
98

I’m still using your DH with a few of my modifications.

I’ve added some labeling and changed the limits on the change rates and dimming rates to 25 to meet my preference. Also for my two lights, the color temperature never goes down to 2703. It only goes down to 2710, so I changed it to that.

Light%20DH%20After
Light DH After.png1440×2560 237 KB

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The easy way is to first add the light. I prefer using the SmartThings Classic app on Android. If you can’t find the lights with the app, you can reset them. The most common way is to turn the lights off and on again, 3 seconds each state, 5 times, or until you notice the lights turn on and “color-cycle”. Then they should now be discoverable by the SmartThing app.

Next, don’t worry about setting the correct device type. It’s easier do to it using the web portal, which you’ll eventually need in order to use one of our custom device handlers. Just hit “Save”.

Log into https://graph.api.smartthings.com and find the device you just added. Edit it and change the type to the stock “ZLL White Color Temperature Bulb 5000K”.

At the very least, this stock device handler will allow you to get the basics out of the downlight.

Once you’ve reached that point, and if you want to use our custom device handlers, follow a guide on how to install them, or reply back here and I’ll help you out.

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I’d like to merge your changes into my codebase. If there’s one weakness I have with coding device handlers is my poor grasp of their UI system. If you don’t mind, where can I find your code? Also, when is the last you’ve forked my code? I have since made some changes.

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I have about 60 CE Smart LEDS downlights, bulbs, and GU10s in a 1200 sqf condo, and I probably get 3-4 disconnects a month. It’s annoying, but luckily (and often unlike Hue Lights or Wi-Fi lgihts, IIRC) when they re-pair, given their static device id, SmartThings doesn’t add them as a new light, so everything works exactly as before without any fiddling with my scripts/scenes/routines/apps/pistons.

I believe they have been discontinued from Home Depot, likely due to customer confusion, and some QC issues. First, given how cheap they are for Zigbee Light Link LEDs with dim and temperature tuning, I wouldn’t put it past some customers to buy them thinking they are “good” dimmable LEDs, and then not understand why they don’t work as advertised.

In terms of QC, I have noticed that the GU10’s get exceptionally hot above 80% brightness, which actually causes them to disconnect, stop working due to overheating, or break altogether (I have already returned 3 because of this). However, given how bright they are, I usually cap them at 50% brightness (which is perfect for me), and also have pistons to shut them off if they remain above 80% for more than 30 minutes.

I am curious to see how Ikea’s Smart LED line will pan out, since they are in about the same price range.

1 Like