Yep. This all makes sense.
So, I guess these ‘Network GPS’ units may not have been the best idea for the ST hub after all. Oh well. If I can’t find an actual 2-pronged smart switch of some sort (I don’t even care if I need to get a different controller to make it work; as long as it’s cheap enough).
Also, this is NOT a high priority project for me. It’s just something that I thought of and decided to get started on looking into possible solutions that may be out there.
I provided a link to the Leviton that I think will work for you, I have no issues with it. That said (and like you mentioned) you will need some other z-wave controller that supports the switch, maybe that is another ST hub or possibly a Wink or Staples Connect hub if the switch works with that.
Ray,
From an electrician’s point of view, would you plug the hub (or the ups itself) into a dimmer switch module like the Leviton?
I normally don’t put anything on a dimmer switch except dimmable lighting. Everything else either goes on just an on/off switch or motor control. But maybe I’m being overly cautious? I honestly don’t know if there’s an issue with something like the hub.
It is also more work but you could write a device handler that does not use the dimming commands, making it an on/off plug only. I am not sure if there would still be concerns if you did that but we can wait for the response from Ray.
Just for safety, I wouldn’t use a dimmer. Most smart dimmer dimming by changing the frequency and amplitude. This is really bad for non dimming device hooking up to it even at 100% brightness. It’s the reason why you see humming or flickering light at 100% brightness. Also the ramping up/down is a killer as well.
So I guess the question stands, how do you power a 2-prong device using a remotely controllable switch. My guess is the answer is going to be that currently there is not an “electronically certified” way to do this since the radio in these devices likely needs to use the ground. I assume because the power is converted to DC which uses ground before powering the radio, I could very well be wrong and please tell me if I am because I would also like to understand the reasons.
I already gave one zwave model in post 2 above. I don’t know if it’s still being manufactured new, but the manufacturer does offer refurbished units at their store site, which I also gave above.
If you open it up to non zwave devices, there are lots of these that use an IR remote or 433 remote. And there are various ways to then control those. There are also X 10 and Insteon models. it’s not an accident that these are all 20 year old technologies. But they still exist. The problem with everything in this paragraph, though, is that it probably ends up being more expensive then you’d want because you have to add additional control devices, not just the plug itself. And some of the solutions are kind of kludgy. 
Yeah, I was not considering the IR or RF methods since I think the ask was to control from away where those would not work. I do agree it seems the one you linked to would work but I am still curious why they would not be made currently or are so hard to find compared to the others, maybe that is just due to lack of demand. I am suspicious if there are other safety or certification issues that make them more difficult to produce.
Too funny, I was going to mention maybe creating a device that you can remotely control that would physically pull the plug from the socket and then plug it back in 
The IR and the 433 can both be made to work from a phone app , but you have to hack the physical remote one way or another. Or Bridge it. Harmony or global cache can bridge a lot of the IR ones. For the 433s you can use a dongle with Vera or some other DIY alternatives. It just gets to be a lot of work and sometimes a fair amount of money.
Separately, Insteon offers this form factor because of their legacy devices, you don’t have to hack anything. But it’s going to end up costing four or $500 because you also need an Insteon controller, which most people running SmartThings would find redundant.
Ya. So, I’ll probably end up just replacing the 2-prong-only UPS with a ‘normal’ one (repurpose the 2-prong one elsewhere), and use one of my 3-prong smart switches.
For me, there are really two levels of complexity which I can live with accomplishing over time. The first will be to have the 3-prong smart switch in place so that I can send the restart command with a momentary button push or something (which should work just fine even though the smart switch being used is in the same mesh as the hub that’s being rebooted). Then sometime down the road, I’ll work in the idea of being able to power it down for longer periods by having a secondary controller system of some sort.
I will still monitor for the 2-prong smart switch for a little bit (in case it pops up soon), but won’t hold out for it long-term.
@motley brought this up earlier, but if you just need it for occasional use rather than a regular maintenance schedule, why not just use the reboot utility in the IDE? Sign into the IDE, choose hubs, and then utilities.
Just been reading through your thread. Just regarding your 2 pin UPS and your unwillingness to use an adaptor to attach a 3 pin switch.
I was until I changed careers many moons ago a trained electrician in the UK so can give you some advice. The Zwave component of switch does not require an earth connection and will not be directly attached to the earth internally. The earth connection is only connected to the load, so as long as you only use double insulated devices such as the Smarthings Adaptor that don’t require earth you will be fine.
Your 2 pin UPS on the other hand will most likely have have the load outputs neutral connected to earth. And may additionally also have its own neutral connected to earth. You can tell this from the UPS plug, is its own input plug 2 or 3 pin? If it is only 2 pin then it’s own earth will be connected to neutral. If this is the case this type of device is illegal in the UK as it can generate ground current and I would look at replacing this device myself and not using it anywhere in my house.
If however the plug is a 3 pin variety then you will be absolutely fine using a 3 pin switch with an adaptor as long as the load of the switch does not require an earth such as the ST hub.
You didn’t say what version of Hub you had is it v1? Because obviously v2 has batteries so won’t power of when power is pulled.
Often people who have a V2 hub on an UPS remove the batteries from the hub. 
I am well aware the statement was just for a FYI sanity check moment to ensure the op was also aware 
@Fuzzyligic
All good info. Thanks! 
I will read through it again and check on the specific point about the pins on the plug of the UPS, and will definitely follow your advice on this one.
Also, thanks for the feedback on the OP. I changed it to read “my v1 SmartThing Hub” now. Very important point when thinking about this specific issue. So, thanks.
I have one of these (HRAM1) I had working with Wink before I got my ST. I have been able to get it reset ok, now have the light flashing, but I cannot find a way to pair it with my ST V2.
Suggestions on pairing?
I have tried “New Device” but no luck. Then guessed at a couple of others that appeared to be made by hawking Tech, but no luck their either.
Thanks!
Monty
I would try just pairing it as a generic Z wave switch and see if you can get on/off control that way.
Start by doing a general exclusion just to make sure it wasn’t a failed pairing the first time.
https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200878314-How-to-exclude-Z-Wave-devices
Then follow the usual add a device instructions.
LoL, that as the problem apparently…It was still active in an old IFTTT smartapp setup. Removed it and fiddled with the “program” button on the device and finally got it to pair!
Thanks!
