2.4gh (2400) rf signal - device to control?

hey, no i did not. i bought 2 switchbots (in the sales) which ive tested on the buttons inside the bed but havent installed yet.

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I also have such a device, a smart remote for the 2,4 ghz band would be great!

Any solution for this issue? :wink:

Still looking a Smartthings compatible solution on light that is controled with this remoteā€¦

Hey mate. Did you ever solve this? Iā€™m coming across this exact issue now.

Thanks
Anton

Sorry no :confused:
I couldnā€™t find replacement for led driver or a way to control it smart.

Sorry to bring up an old post but i have a remote kinda like that and ive tried an rm pro 4 and also a bond bridge and neither detect the remote commands. Have you found anything for that remote?

Sorry nothing :confused: Not even a new led controller/driver. Mine light is CCT and using DC voltage between 90-165v (DC!). Soā€¦ no luck

Seems to me the Flipper Zero should be able to get you on your way to solving this.

I literally received a flipper zero yesterday, bought specifically to sniff the remote for my adjustable bed base. Unfortunately, it will not receive 2.4 GHz.
From what I can see after a quick search there are aftermarket boards that can connect to the I/O ports that will allow this but I havenā€™t spent much time researching yet.
Itā€™s funny to me that this is such a common feature thatā€™s wanted; lots of threads on it, not many solutions.
I was just going to crack open the remote and solder some leads to the buttons, then connect them to a cheap Alexa enabled controller/relay set up, but the cheapest replacement remotes I can find online are pushing 100 bucks, and I am not sure I want to take a chance screwing up the only one I currently have.
I may crack open the receiver/bed controller and see if I can hardwire something in that way but I doubt it.

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Ive same problem as looking for solutuon to get my philips living colours lamp gen 1 working again as remotes no longer available , cannot even find used remores to link lamp

Same problem - wanting to control 2.4ghz rf landscape lights.
I had planned to use the broadlink rm4 but the frequency for the bulb is 2.4ghz.

Wondering if this would work - 2.4ghz hub to connect to Alexaā€¦

  • Allows compatible 2.4GHz RF lights to be controlled through free app on smart devices
  • Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant
    -Supports voice commands to turn lights On/Off, adjust brightness, and change colors and color temperature

https://www.ledwholesalers.com/v2/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1098

The trick here is the phrase ā€œcompatibleā€ and ā€œselect models.ā€

2.4 GHz is just the frequency at which the messages are sent. It doesnā€™t tell you the format of those messages. Itā€™s like knowing the size of the envelope that your local post office will carry, but not knowing what language your recipient can read. If you send a message in English and they only read mandarin, they wonā€™t know what to do when they get the message.

So it might work, and it might not, but it probably wonā€™t unless you have the specific models that they list. Your message will get delivered, but the receiving device may not know what to do with it.

Whatā€™s the brand and model of the lights you want to control?

Still on the topic of a way to transmit RF controls to a 2.4 ghz device.
@JDRoberts - thanks for the information
Good to know that thereā€™s a ā€˜formatā€™ and ā€˜frequencyā€™ .
With the RM4 pro hub controlling @433 it has worked on everything so far. Maybe Iā€™ve been lucky.
Is 2.4ghz more configurable/ finicky?
Will look for a 2.4ghz controller that I can return.

**Side note that the OP 4 years ago was asking about controlling a bed lift, and S_E wanting a solution for a Philips liing colours lamp gen 1.

This is the 2.4ghz landscape bulb and RF remote controller that I have

Volt Landscape light Bulbs (rgb rf controlled)

Volt Remote control

FCC ID: 2AI4GVAC-REMOTE-RF1

frequency report
2.40GHZ 0.41 dBi 26.5%
2.440 GHZ 0.58 dBi 29.7%
2.48 GHZ 0.51 dBi 29.1 %
Operation Frequency: 2419MHz~2480MHz

Not lucky, just that 433 is somewhat more standardized. With Wi-Fi, it seems like every home automation device manufacturer made up their own messaging format. Itā€™s one reason so many big companies have jumped on the Matter Bandwagon: this is an issue that everyone would like to see resolved, but itā€™s going to take a while, and then will only apply to those individual devices that have been made matter compliant.

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For the landscape lights running off a transformer, Iā€™m just going to control the power to the transformer with a smart outlet. Then I can give commands to the outlet for on/off control. I donā€™t get zones with that solution - which I may solve in the future. The remote control will be to change the lights color or dimming - which is a more periodic event that I can do manually.

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Hi, Iā€™m not sure if you have got round this or have bought a new bed in the mean time. I have the same control system as you and motor on my bed, I have now completed making it into a smart device so it can be operated by home assistant.

What I have done will void your warranty FYI

First of you need purchase yourself something like these below:

One you have received this what you want to do is the following steps:

  1. Disconnect the power from under the bed so its fully isolated
  2. At the foot of the bed where the power plug is for the motor and TV remove the screws so the housing and bezel come towards you
  3. Disconnect the housing so you can remove it from under the bed
  4. When in a more open environment remove the four screws so you can get to the electrical components in the housing.
  5. Once the unit is fully opened up, you need to wire the positive and negative for the incoming voltage of the 240V-12V transformer onto the incoming terminals for the 240V positive and Negative.
  6. The output 12V from the transformer you need to wire the positive and negative into the input VNC and GND of the smart switch
  7. After you need to connect a cable between the two COM ports and also the centre pin of the up and down switch.
  8. After that you need to put a wire between the NO1 port and the TOP pin of the up and down switch
  9. After that you need to put a wire between the NO2 port and the BOTTOM pin for the up and down switch.
  10. Once everything is wired up you can installed the housing and new components back under the bed.
  11. Reconnect all power and turn the power on.
  12. Now you should be able to see the smart switch on the tuya app or alternative if you have bought a different switch.
  13. Set up the switch on the app to turn the relay off after a set amount of time (I have set 60 seconds)

Now you should be able to control you drive for the TV lift from a smart device (i.e Phone)

That is the basic set up and you can then incorporate it into other devices if you require like Alexa or Google or Home Assistant

I hope that helps you or anyone looking for a solution

This is awesome, im very tempted. Do you have any photos to help me out as Iā€™m not as electrically minded as youā€¦

Hi, Yes i have taken a few, sorry but my photography skills arenā€™t the best but i have uploaded them here. I have used different colour cables so you can trace it a bit easier

[grid]

Black cable goes to the middle pin out of the rocker switch from COM1 and COM2 (COM 1 and 2 are joined with a jumper cable)
Red cable goes to the UP pin out of the rocker switch from NO2 port
Orange cable goes to the DOWN pin out of the rocker switch from NO1 port