I agree with Brian that the Hue Tap totally misses the point by not following the right form factor. I do not need a Hue switch to sit on a table - that’s where my phone or iPad is already at, I need it in the wall. I did have this hard-wired approach working with my Hue lights by just bypassing the switch for the load and thus always powering them. I used a Jasco dimmer through to ST which then had a SmartApp set to turn the Hue bulbs on and off as well as change the dimmer settings. It “worked” but the delay in on/off and dimmer change was too high in my environment to get to a reasonable WAF so I ripped it out. I also had lots of problems with general reliability with the hue bulbs and ST, which is a real problem in this case since which the switch out of the loop you can no longer just “turn them off”. A direct to Hue wall switch is what is really needed here IMHO.
Here is the other thread on this: