Zooz vs. Inovelli Switch?

do you have any with integrated motion sensor?

Hey Tony,

Great question - currently we don’t, but it’s a good idea and we can explore it. I can’t promise it will be in our new switches (at least the ones we’re developing) but it’s something we’re exploring for some other products.

The thing with the switches and motion sensors is that personally I just don’t like the look of them. However, the team can definitely veto my preferences :slight_smile:

My reasoning is that we want to make a switch that blends in with other switches in the house and I think it would be overkill to have all motion sensor switches.

I believe GE makes some and I swore Zooz was coming out with some (or has already, I’m not sure).

I think if we were to do it on our switches, we could put it in our remotes, I’m just not sure how that would affect battery life.

Thoughts?

Alright, I figured out what was wrong with the repository. The files needed to be moved into a sub-directory because SmartThings is very picky about that.

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IIRC, they’ll be showing those at CES.

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Fantastic, I’ll be sure to check them out too! They’ve been innovating like crazy lately, which is awesome :slight_smile: – awesome to see them pushing S2 as well, great technology.

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The switches in my IDE are brown now. I don’t see the files for the NZW30 anymore. :frowning:

I think you just need to click on it and then click ā€œsaveā€.

Edit: ā€œThe save that is next to the publish buttonā€

It says my NZW30 files are obsolete. Should I change over to the NZW31 files?

If they are obsolete then you should probably update them to the newer version. You can also change the NZW31 handlers over to the Inovelli repo by either checking the checkbox in the screenshot you posted and publishing, executing, and assigning it to the device.

Or you can copy and paste the code over the top of your current NZW31 handlers and do the couple of tricks we’ve discussed in this thread.

That’s weird…after installing the NZW31 files, now the NZW30 files show up and it’s black in the IDE.

Heh, computers…

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Well an additional switch that has motion would be a win! It would be more discreet than an additional motion switch for security or motion lighting. Also I have to spend at least $60 on two z wave devices for this currently and still have to change batteries in the motion sensor. Would prefer Inovelli or Zooz than GE.

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For motion sensors… Would it be possible to make an IR-transparent paddle and hide the sensor behind it?

@Eric_Inovelli, curious on if the form factor of the latest switch hardware is getting any smaller, or a new location of the ground screw?

Maybe it’s just the cheap gang boxes my builder put in the house, or my inefficient re-cramming of wires back into the gang box, but my nzw30 seems to catch on that ground screw. Also putting 2 of these in a 3 gang box created a frontplate bulge.

Good point! Something to consider for sure. I’ll run it by the team :slight_smile:

Yeah, we’re trying to get the form factor smaller. At first I thought it was the Z-Wave module that was causing the depth of the switch to be so large, but it turns out it’s the relay that causes the depth. However, it’s something we’re looking at. From personal experience, it’s been a pain to have the switches so deep bc my house is actually older (1966) and it had all metal boxes in it, causing me to have to rip those out (on the positive side, I learned how to fix drywall haha).

We’re also looking at the ground screw placement as well – I’ve heard this complaint before and it’s definitely something we want to address.

As for the putting two side by side, have you removed the heat sink tabs (there are six total… three on each side)? If you remove those, the switches will fit perfectly side by side. To do that, you can take a pair of needle nose pliers and wiggle them until they break off. For the On/Off switches, it will have no affect on performance. For Dimmer switches, if you remove one side, it will drop the amount of Wattage the switch will be able to handle from 500W to 400W and if you remove both sides, it will drop the Wattage to 300W.

I’ll PM you too – curious on your thoughts of the design. I’d post it here, but don’t want to tip my hat quite yet (this goes for anyone else, if you’re curious on the design, I’m happy to share – I’ll post it publicly once we’re closer to finalizing).

Have a great day!

Installing the Zooz, GE and Inovelli switches there is a constant issue I have run into with the break off heat sink tabs. They leave a little bit of metal behind and it is just enough to not be able to fit 2 of them next to each other in a 2 gang mud ring. I always have to grind them down with a file or grinder to get them to fit.

  1. Being able to control a ceiling fan - mine is just on/off, but most switches say lights only. (don’t remember if yours do)

  2. Why even make non-dimmable ones? some sort of enable/disable action in the switch itself instead of second product.
    2.1) same with scene control. great feature, anyone without it is missing out, or will be someday when they change hubs

  3. As someone said before, a smaller footprint inside the box would be great. Mine were a bit of a struggle

Existing feature: being able to remap the initial switch action has been great. Never lose that.

I have over 100 switches in my home, mostly GE but a few Zooz and Inovelli, and I have never had to do this. Maybe it’s how they are removed? I use large electrician pliers to remove mine.

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What are the odds either Zooz or Inovelli will come out with a black coloured switch?

The GE colored paddles are super expensive. I shudder to think about the cost if I didn’t want white in my house.