Hi got it working first then used a 74HC86 to generate a one shot from the switch for both on and off. The one input goes for the logic gate has a cap/resistor tuned to deliver .5 sec of pulse.
After weeks of problems, my Hue’s have worked perfectly for the last two days.
Maybe they’ve fixed it.
Frankly, I wouldn’t trust smartthings with anything except adding control to existing systems.
I have a hardwired DSC alarm and Fibero switches that can still be used when smartthings does not work.
Like when they update the hub and shaft the whole system…
For me, any extras are a nice to have!
Has anyone in the UK tried these?
There are some members using Broadlink devices, but it may require that you have an android phone (not an iPhone). And the integration is only a partial integration.
The devices on the broadlink don’t report status so although smartthings may try to keep track of state it has no way to know you manually turned off a device
Please ask any follow-up questions about Broadlink in the following thread. That’s where you will find the people who are using it.
Any one tried
The images are showing switch without Neutral requirement, I have contacted the seller to confirm as well.
I’m not sure about the first one, but the second one shows that it requires a neutral. (In the US, a white wire is typically neutral.)
I thought that is the case when a bypass is needed for low wattage light
Not the way they’ve drawn it.
Third generation Z wave switches usually did not require a neutral, but they were only intended to work with incandescent lamps.
Once you got to fourth-generation Z wave, many people wanted to be able to operate dimmable LEDs and CFL’s. Not smart bulbs, just dumb LEDs.
At that point for technical reasons it became necessary for most manufacturers to start using the neutral wire to power the radio inside the switch. That way, the radio would be available to hear the next “on” command from the network even when the lights appear to be off.
Lutron and LightwaveRF each have their own unique method for continuing to be able to use two wire (no neutral) set ups with switches that control dimmable LEDs, but neither of these brands is directly compatible with SmartThings.
Most Z wave manufacturers switched over to using three wire switches and using the neutral to power the radio.
The exception is some models of the Fibaro in wall module, and to be honest, I don’t know exactly how they made it work. But they did.
I don’t know of any cheap Chinese switches that will work with dimmable LEDs that don’t require a neutral to power the Z wave radio, however. You might find some that are intended for use only with incandescent lamps.
Based on my personal experience on these switch, they have 2 type of similar looking switches, one that support switch with neutral and one that support switch that without neutral but this come with a small relay box to power up the radio in the switch as mentioned by JD.
They have different switch that support US and UK frequency.
Has anyone tried to use the Fibaro Universal Dimmer 2 ( http://www.vesternet.com/resources/application-notes/apnt-111 ) with Momentary Switches like https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLXENM2S.html
Hi All. I’m new to SmartThings and was a little disappointed to find out there’s no great light-switch options here in the UK.
I did, however find this (albeit not currently in stock). Would this work with ST in the UK??
It should work, but you should know that that type of two wire switch is only rated to work with incandescents and some halogens. It will not work with a conventional dumb LED. So it just depends on what kind of lamps you want to use with it.
It looks like it’s in stock at the following vendor if you want to give it a try:
I think the new logitech pop is what you are looking for.
I’ve just ordered it so I’ll let you know how I get on!
Can these be wired in to control ‘dumb’ lights, and controlled via ST/Z-wave?
The Logitech pop buttons? No, they use their own Bluetooth bridge. There’s an official SmartThings integration which works quite well. But they’re just a battery powered button.
Or were you talking about a different device?
I just wanted to be clear (for the sake of others as well as myself) on @Roy_Martin’s suggestion, as it may not be what everybody is looking for!
OK, maybe I misunderstood the original aims, my apologies.
But if all you are looking for is to control your smartthings with a physical button, this is the item to use.