This looks like it should be useful - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Popp-009303-Z-Wave-Battery-Controller/dp/B013VFVTX2/
It certainly can be, it just depends on the exact details of your set up. Like all battery controlled switches, it does not control current, so it has to be combined with devices that are also networked devices. So it can work well with smart bulbs. If you’re going to use Dumb bulbs, then there has to be yet another networked device controlling the current to those bulbs, typically either an in wall relay or a pocket socket.
Also, these will not work straight out of the box with SmartThings, you will have to use some of the custom code created by community members.
These details are discussed in option 3A of the first post in this thread.
FYI - thanks to the efforts of other members of the community, these Popp or Z-Wave.me wireless wall controllers can now be used to their full feature set with my latest device handler. Actions can be be triggered off button presses, releases, double clicks, clickholds and clickholdReleases - with the use of the smartapp you can dim as you hold as well, and thanks to an update to Rule Machine yesterday you can now use any of these click actions in rule machine as triggers.
Personally I’ve gone totally down the smart bulb route - using these wall switches - you can get loads of different face plates and buttons so you could have an all chrome finish or glass or whatever you want.
The only downside as far as I can tell is ST reliability - you are totally reliant on ST working, which is not always the case. We can live and hope that this changes - and if it doesn’t, the first competitor that comes along that can offer reliability for these z-wave switches interoperating LIFX and Hue bulbs I’ll upgrade to.
Agreed. The popp and Z wave.me battery operated switches don’t physically control the current to the devices. Which means that if The home automation system is unavailable (either because the Internet is down or because the SmartThings system is not functioning correctly), there will be no way to turn the lights on and off using these devices.
Of course if you kept the regular switches in place and just added these as a parallel means of control, then you can use the original switches in case of an outage. But it may be confusing to people.
This is an issue with many types of controls, including the official SmartThings mobile app. So it’s just something to be aware of.
At my house, as I mentioned, we do keep the original switches in place and use battery-operated switches and voice as additional means of control. Different households will have different needs in this regard.
I spoke to the Energenie guys as they have uk automation kit (which needs a hug) and they are working on a ST integration, which I think they are trying to make official. Sounds like they hope to have a demo at the gadget show in March.
Just had a look at the Energenie Products and website etc.
So wish these were Z-Wave
From what I can see and correct me if I am wrong is the following states its one way, and can only send the signal to command the device and thus its stateless, a super quick browse and I cant see any of the retrofit Items (Light Switch and Sockets) as having anything other that one way
Radio Frequency 433.92Mhz
-Data Protocol Simplex one way, OOK
- Receiving Range 25 meters in open area
- Encoding 20 address bits (preset OTP), 4 data bits
- Socket Rating 220 - 250V~ 50Hz, 13A, 3000W max. each socket
Not sure what the OOK is however, but if in fact they are stateless, then its no different to LightwaveRF which are also stateless and a bit cheaper I think too.
@adamclark_dev has already created a great setup to allow UDP control of LWRF via Smartthings.
Lightwave /SmartThings integration
Anyway I hope I am wrong and they are stated and then if they did integrate then it would be a great solution for the UK market. Given we lack so much device diversity here.
Until then for me its Re-Tractive Switches with Aoen Micro Switches and LWRF Retrofit Switches and Sockets.
@CraigJohn - Looking at their pimote - https://energenie4u.co.uk/catalogue/product/ENER314-RT. It would be fairly simple to stick one of these on a RaspberryPi and then convert HTTP requests from SmartThings to the pimote and escape the need for the Energenie hub altogether, If there API isn’t bad, then a cloud to cloud integration would also be fairly easy.
So today I got my Hue Bulbs and I’m trying to find a solution to people switching my light off at the wall, making it unable to work from my mobile.
Am I correct in thinking, I can wire my existing switch to be always on, and replace it with a blank faceplate and stick one of these on top?
Yep, just put a blanking plate on and use a wago connector to connect the switched live and live and you’re good to go. I didn’t bother with any switches as I’ve got 17 motion detectors and some cameras to detect motion for lighting.
2 posts were merged into an existing topic: Motion sensor inactivity turns lights off too early (2016 discussion)
I have created a new thread for you to discuss the various options for turning lights off after inactivity in a room. That’s getting kind of off topic for this particular thread, but you’ll be able to discuss details there:
Got this touch screen switch for testing from one of the z-wave manufacturer, tested with my UK hub, ST able add it easily and identify it as Z-Wave Switch. Turning on / off the switch will trigger the status update in the ST app almost immediately.
The switch do not need neutral wire to work (the 3 wire) but come with a relay box.
Quite easy to install & a good deal consider it’s cost (+relay)
This is the prototype before replacing my wall switch
Hard to see from your photos, but I take it the relay DOES need a neutral?
Is the relay essential? If the wattage of the light is low enough (LED) can the switch-plate control them directly (i.e. wire the lights in place of the relay box).
The relay, link back to the same neutral, you don’t need to install another neutral wire. I hope this photo give you better idea.
Looking at the photo the relay needs a neutral so you could put it above the rose pendant if you have space and pick up the neutral there. This is a good solution for single switches I wonder if the make double and triple?
You are right, the relay can just attach to the lights fittings.
What do you mean by if the make double and triple?
The relay is essential, I guess it act as triacs to trigger the on/off.
I have a triple switch in the kitchen that controls 3 different lightening circuits - To replace this would be cheaper than buying the 9 smart bulbs in these 3 circuits.
I also have other switches that have 2 outputs.
So I’m guessing that a relay would be needed for each switching circuit so it can become more complicated but possible.
However personally I live in a new build with neutrals in the light switch housing so I am lucky I have just took a punt on a zigbee triple switch from China so will see what I get in a few weeks
I tried the double switches to control 2 lights, it work with 1 relay only, I don’t really understand but it work
Looks a big relay to get in the ceiling rose?