You might want to start with the lighting FAQ for the UK. You’ll see that the Aeon micro that you link to is the first option there, and is on the official “works with SmartThings” compatibility list for the UK.
When properly wired, turning the light on or off at the switch will not affect the in wall relay’s ability to hear the next networked “on” command. All the wall switch then actually does is send an instruction directly to the relay. It doesn’t completely cut the power to it.
Thanks, I did read that thread and I was hoping this was the case.
The only other question I will have is WHERE to wire them? I have two lights in the front room powered by a single switch, but I’d like to be able to control them both independently - assuming I put the micro switch between the ring junction and the actual fitting, this will achieve what I want?
Thanks again 
If they are currently wired to operate together, the micro relay doesn’t change that. They would have to be rewired for separate operation. No way to tell how complex that would be, it depends on the details of the existing set up. But if you do split them from each other, you would likely then need one micro relay device for each light.
Also, since there is only one switch wire, you would only be able to control one light with the switch unless you get ST to turn on the second one when the first one is turned on or through the ST app.
That was the plan. Fit one relay for each light so it’s controllable by ST independently. Leaving the main switch free to still control both lights because the relays act as a pass through for the normal circuit?
I’m not sure, it just depends on exactly how everything gets wired. It might be possible, but I would think you would have to have an electrician look at it. If the lights are wired in series, it may not be possible to have the switch at the wall send a signal to the second relay in the series. It might only be able to communicate with the first one.
On the other hand, if the lights are wired in parallel, it might be doable. It just comes down to the details.
Cheers
Got a friend who’s an electrician so he can tell me. Also it’s a new build so I can ask the site manager.
Just need some internet connection so I can start my HA project!
with these panel switches, do you need to by the inserts behind for them to work with smartthings?
Or do i just connect my lights to these switches?
Any update to a wall switch compatible in UK, specifically 2 wire?
I’ve bought dune smart bulbs, Lightify, but it’s becoming costly, and if wife switches off the wall switch, then obviously ST can’t control.
I bought s Fibaro relay, but as mine are downlights I can’t access the ceiling rose, or junction box for what I want to control.
So is there a UK solution yet for 2 wired live replacement. Much better in my opinion, something like LightwaveRF, but I don’t want these as route home pi server and hacks etc.
Thanks
The Fibaro dimmer (not relay) works in a two wire UK setup. And you can configure it for on/off if you don’t want dimming.
Does it… Oh great, can you point to the exact one please, ideally on Amazon UK, and sketch a drawing please to show me possibly?
This is one I bought hoping I could access the ceiling ride but can’t.
Aeotec Micro Smart Switch (2nd Edition) DSC18103-ZWEU - Z-Wave https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JGSDJKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p2rfxbDBWP4VZ
I’d sell it and get the proper one if I can directly for it behind the wall switch. Don’t want dimming either
Looking at the drawing from its manual, it looks like it still can’t be out behind the light switch though as needs a neutral?
The actual wall switch is shown, but then also the wiring to the light bulb, think you’d need the ceiling rose accessible to wire this the same as the relay I bought above? Is it also a compatible ST thing? Or does it need a hack or anything?
I think the diagrams in the manual are confusing. Take a look at the details on the Vesternet site, they explain things much better: http://www.vesternet.com/resources/application-notes/apnt-111
The only thing you’ll have to watch out for is whether your back boxes are deep enough. A standard 25mm lighting box won’t be. 35mm might be OK, and 45mm will be fine.
That’s much easier to understand, and now it looks like I could rather than other diagrams, just worried on below now…
Says this on some info on the dimmer 2, my LED GU10’s are non dimmable so does this mean I can’t use it?
"On/Off mode - supports non-dimmable loads (3-wire installation"
As I have a 2 wire?
I’m pretty sure it’ll work. But have a read of the manual: http://www.fibaro.com/manuals/en/FGD-212/FGD-212-EN-T-v1.0.pdf
Or have a chat with Mark Onions at Vesternet and ask him why the site says this - he’s really helpful.
P.
Mark replied, very promptly, seems very knowledgeable. Wish ST was sold by them as well as Currys who don’t have any idea technically with ST!
Still unsure on a few things…
If it works on non-dimmable LEDs
My load would only be 20W is this enough or would I also need the bypass as well, makes it £60 in total (if I don’t need dimmables as all mine non-dimmable at mo)
Waiting to confirm before I buy…
Holy thread revival, Batman (apologies!)
I’ve been looking at the very problems raised in this thread myself and couldn’t find an easy method (in my case) of replacing the back boxes without “damaging” the plaster-work. There is, however, another option If you don’t mind extending your wall boxes the other way (outwards); you can get 10 or 19mm “extension collars” for a few quid which will give you that extra wiggle room for the insert modules.
