Yeah… It seems like Currys have a monopoly / sole franchise on selling ST branded stuff in the UK!
Vesternet are great… I have bought nearly every device I own from them… They may not sell ST products but nearly every z wave product they sell is compatible (just search this forum for the DH before buying)
They also have great guidance pages, blogs and compatibility lists which include ST.
We are incredibly limited in the uk when it comes to good devices for lighting control… It really comes down to Fibaro and a few others that don’t seem to have DH on this forum.
The z wave switches all need a neutral so again, for most UK wiring, Fibaro micro modules are the only realistic choice! I don’t mind that though, I love my Fibaro’s!!
For irons, hair straighteners etc there are plenty of wall wart sockets available to us. Fibaro do one (never tried it though) and ST’s own socket outlet is a neat piece of kit.
A bonus with the ST outlet is that it works in Zigbee (a rarity for mains powered devices in the UK) so it can act as a repeater for the ST presence sensors (which I find very reliable, others don’t).
If you have stud walls remember you don’t necessarily have to change all the back boxes… The modules can be put on longer wires and hung down in the cavity behind the boxes (just make sure you terminate the wires neatly to avoid anything touching)
Vesternet is always very helpful. They are an excellent resource.
As far as appliance control in the UK, you can definitely use pocket sockets (just check the specs to make sure it will handle what you’re going to plug into it) or Aeon Labs makes a “heavy duty” in wall micro which can handle higher loads.
But if you don’t mind the aesthetics of the pocket sockets, they’re certainly easier.
I’m not familiar with safety codes in the U.K., but I’d be rather surprised if you’re allowed to hang the micro down into the wall cavity rather than fitting it into the back box, that would be considered a fire hazard in the US. But perhaps. @John_Crighton might know.
I’ve come across this retractive switch, which is fine, though a little expensive. The issue I’m going to face is that I have several 2-way switches throughout the house, and I don’t think they make 2-way retractive switches.
I like the idea of the Aeotec switch, but in a 3 storey house the repeater function of the SmartThings power outlet feels like a good thing.
It’s a good thing if you have other zigbee devices paired to the SmartThings hub.
Zwave repeats only for zwave, zigbee repeats only for Zigbee. So What repeaters you will need where depends on what specific devices you are trying to reach.
Almost all mains-powered devices act as repeaters, but only for their own protocol. (battery powered devices do not repeat as it would use up too much battery power.).
The SmartThings branded devices are all zigbee. Aeotec and fibaro devices are all Z wave. The pocket sockets from all three brands act as repeaters, but again only for their own protocol.
In the UK, most home automation is Z wave.
Both protocols are good, and each has pluses and minuses. Some people will choose all Z wave devices, some will choose all Zigbee, many people have some of both just depending on each specific use case.
So when you plan your network layout, it’s typically easiest to just plan ZIgbee and Z wave separately. That way you’ll have the right repeaters in the right spots.
The following Topic in the community – created wiki goes into more detail:
As far as the switches, if you are using the Fibaro light modules, you can use retractive switches at both points of a two-way set up. @RobinWinbourne can say more about this, as he’s previously mentioned having two ways of this type.
There’s also more discussion in the UK lighting control FAQ:
I wasn’t sure on this myself so I checked with an electrician before I did it in my own home… We are allowed junctions (and modules) behind the boxes so long as they are accessible for maintenance and live contacts are correctly terminated to avoid any bare wire showing or coming into contact with metal studs etc.
I actually went belt and braces with mine and placed the modules within terminal boxes… But I was told this was not strictly necessary.
Did the same recently in my mums house which she rents out to tenants… It got electrical certification (required for renting in the UK) fairly easily - after the electrician got his head around the setup that is!!
What’s funny is that when you watch the Fibaro tutorial videos they often show the wires stripped right back and left exposed protruding from the terminals… Very poor practice!!
There are 1, 2 and 3 gang retractable options. Bit fiddly to get the glass faceplate off once clicked into place but I like the look and feel of the big rockers. I also like the fact that there is no gap between the rockers in the multi-gang versions, so you can turn twin circuits off together with just one finger in the middle.
I initially experimented with the MK grid system range, but I found the MK retractable modules a bit heavy to press + they made an annoyingly loud click!!
If you have pull cords in your wet room(s) then the only retractable option I could find was to use an elderly / disabled persons panic cord switch… They come with a red cord but it’s simple to just swap your original white cord onto the new switch:
Retractable switches are nearly always 2 way. This means they have both ‘normally open’ (NO) and ‘normally closed’ (NC) terminals in addition to the common.
For the Fibaro modules you will only need to use the Common and ‘NO’ terminals.
An important point to note is that though the Fibaro dimmers can only control one lighting circuit each, they have the ability to connect to two switches (S1 & S2). S1 is used for the primary light control. S2 is optional and can be used to send scene ID’s to the hub which can in turn be used to trigger anything you want.
For example I have a 2 gang retractable switch in my living room connected to one Fibaro dimmer module. S1 controls the main lights in the ceiling. S2 is programmed, via the hub, to toggle the lamp in the corner (which uses the Swidd switch I mentioned earlier). An easy way to achieve the same result as those old fashioned 5A lighting circuits.
Different scene ID’s are sent for different actions (singe, double and tipple clicks + hold and release) so you can setup all sorts of shortcuts to scenes, routines and rules depending on your needs:
When planning the number of gangs required at each switch location, the above should be taken into account if you want to take advantage of S2.
I originally just went for the same number of gangs as the existing (dumb) setup, but I have recently had to replace a whole load of switches to take advantage of the S2 functions. If you can, save yourself the cost and the hassle by getting it right first time.
2 Way circuits
A bit of confusion here that @JDRoberts may be able to clarify… Here in the UK, a lighting circuit with 2 switches is known as ‘2-way’ but I’m fairly sure it’s called ‘3-way’ in the US? I think the same applies to the switch type naming? Always helps to know the terminology for when you need to search this forum!
Anyway, before I try to explain how to wire Fibaro dimmers into a UK 2-way lighting circuit, can you confirm if the following diagram matches your existing setup (this is the standard setup for the UK):
If it does, you will only need one dimmer module to control both switches (technically unlimited switched actually) and I will then explain further.
Oh, and don’t worry about the retractable switches being 1 or 2 way, you only need 1 of the ways anyway. 2 way switches are only really relevant to traditional toggle types unless you are doing something particularly specialist with a retractable.
Exactly right – – wiring terminology in the US and UK does vary a bit.
UK “two way” = two switches controlling the same fitting. (UK terminology refers to the number of switches)
US “three-way” = two switches controlling the same fitting. (US terminology refers to the number of circuit branches)
So a UK “three-way” is a US “four way.”
As to how many wall switches you’ll need, that varies from household to household and the exact set up for each light.
The two most common places to have a UK two-way are at opposite ends of a long corridor and when there is a staircase so that there is one switch at the top of the stairs and another at the bottom. In both cases, this is just for convenience.
Once you get into home automation there are typically many different ways to control the same fitting. These might include:
physical wall switch
Two) voice control such as with the Amazon echo
Three) mobile app
Four) by time schedule, such as coming on 15 minutes before sunset
triggered by another device, such as a motion sensor for a hallway or a contact sensor on a closet door
Some people find that they need fewer physical switches once they have created the other control methods. Others find that they still want the same number of wall switches as they had before, either because that will be intuitive for guests, or for those convenience situations like the opposite ends of the corridor.
I currently work as the group H&S Manger for a large Construction Logistics Contractor, primarily visiting new build projects throughout the UK, but I used to be a Site Manager.
New homes normally tend to come with 10 year NHBC Buildmark warranties… I would hate to kill your ambitions but you may want to check how your HA plans could effect this.
Probably not going to be an issue as it will mainly cover structural aspects but worth checking with the developer.
Also, (good) developers typically re-visit homes 6-12 months after completion to carry out “snagging” such as making good settlment cracks and the like. You may loose out on this service if they see you have replaced every single switch in the home, as you will likely crack up the paint around each switch.
Personally, neither of the above would bother me too much… Electrical standards are so high in the UK that you’ll be very unlikely to need that part of the Warranty. Not getting some small cracks filled and painted would also not bother me in the grander scheme of things.
Just thought I would throw it in the mix so you were aware.
In regards to LED’s… Don’t forget to get the Dimmable types and my recommendation is that you don’t skimp on the wattage… Get the brightest the fitting can handle, you wont regret it!
Very true. Now I think about it, I might want to add a motion sensor for the passage and two landings in future and not need the switches at all. Would still keep the switches since they’re intuitive for anyone wanting to control manually.
You’re right, and sorry ‘new home’ is a bit misleading. It’s new to me, but it’s actually almost 10 years old and therefore NHBC no longer applies in any case!
Yup, I’ve always gone for the brightest bulbs I can find, and dimmable ‘just in case’. LEDHut had some a good black friday sale where I picked up a load of LED filament bulbs for the decorative fittings. Just need to find some good E14 dimmable clear bulbs (wife doesn’t like opaque ones).
They certainly do, although you need to make them up with their grid system. You can buy single retractive modules, and fit them in to a double face plate. In fact, I recently found out that buying retractive modules and a single face plate is cheaper than buying the retractive switch as a whole, and it looks identical.
I have a quadruple schneider screwless retractive switch in my kitchen/diner, and several doubles around the house (all retractive).
The Schneider range look like a good option, and R&B Star (wtf is that name about, ha) definitely are the cheapest around for them.
Issue is, with all the switches and sockets I need, the total cost will be more than £1600!
The other thing with them is that they only have sockets in polished chrome, but modular switches in mirror steel, two noticeably different finishes. There’s no unified chrome that covers everything. May need to go with Stainless (my preference anyway as I don’t want to be polishing everything every 5 minutes).
Look forward to starting to pull everything together!
Little update with some progress. I’m now the proud owner of a ST Hub - great xmas present
All done switching out backboxes to accommodate the fibaro dimmer module, and almost ready to order them, plus a few TKB TZ69E wall plugs for controlling some appliances and lamps. The guys at Vesternet have been amazing.
Was finding it pretty tough to justify paying nearly £2000 just for switches and sockets, and have fortunately come across Scolmore’s Definity and Minigrid system which will let me kit the house out with all the same switches and sockets (even slightly better, as they do a 3-way retractive switch module which will allow me to dim up and down), for less than half the cost!
So today’s the big day, finally trying to start installing everything. Already learned today (though sounds stupidly obvious now) - I can’t use retractive switches for some of the lights that won’t have a Fibaro Dimmer in the circuit.
We’ve wired in one of the Fibaro dimmers and the retractive switch now can turn the light off and on with a single press (not reverting to off when in the 0 position). Trouble is my smartthings app isn’t detecting it… Any ideas? All the instructions I’ve found start with 'Pair the device’s but I can’t even get that far.