As @ritchierich mentioned, you can use what is essentially a dummy switch so that it is not controlling the current load to the bulbs but rather talking to the hub which then talks to the bulbs. The Linear/GoControl WT00Z1 is popular for this purpose as it is designed to be an auxiliary switch (you don’t wire the load wire into it) but it is still a Z wave device that can talk to the hub. Because it’s not intended as a loadbearing switch, it’s less expensive then the master switches of any brand. Yet it still has its own Z wave radio, unlike auxiliaries like the GE’s which use physical traveler wires to communicate to their master switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y
That will work fine as long as your home automation system is working.
But if you use a dummy switch and you don’t have a connection to the SmartThings cloud, or if your own hub isn’t working, you won’t be able to turn the bulbs on and off. That’s important to some people, and not to others.
There are a number of other alternative approaches as well. The Cooper 9500 is popular because it looks exactly like a regular switch but it’s battery operated. You can leave the original switch in place and just put a child safety lock on it so people don’t use it most of the time and put the Cooper near it.
There are some other similar wallmount options in the buttons FAQ, and the Cooper is listed there as well. 
Both of these options and a few more are discussed at length in the following FAQ.