Where were you looking to monitor the zigbee comm? I’ve rooted my wink hub, but haven’t dug around too much yet.
@mitchp is correct. You do not even need to update the switches firmware. I have updated the main post to reflect that a custom device type is no longer needed. Now if ST would make this a local device 
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I haven’t gotten around to actually capturing the raw serial comms, but I haven’t needed to yet. A lot of information is, at least in the latest firmware, dumped in the logs (/var/log/all.log is interesting). Do a tail -f /var/log/all.log while pairing a device for some interesting data.
I’m getting excited reading that mitchp is making progress. 
What a deal this would be if this thing runs local and even learns to dim a non-smart bulb. I can dream.
I’m still learning a lot about running local – Is there a good FAQ on it? A lot of my lighting so far has been done with GE Zigbee and Hue bulbs (so I assume that is “local” considering I can turn them on and off via standard switches). Is the non-local concept example typically a rocker or button style wall switch which doesn’t respond to commands when the ST hub is unreachable?
Local control would be great. But, I believe as of now, only official ST device types are able to make into the local control list.
You are correct, I had hopes because I’m using the defaulted “zigbee switch” device type which is from ST that it would be local. But it’s not, even though I completely removed and re-added and haven’t attached any smart apps to it.
I share your hopes, my friend. I went through the daunting process of removing from each SmartApp, deleting your the device type (again, thank you for that one), and re-pairing just to get that local control. Bummer. Can’t even begin to tell you all the problems it gave with my wife because “ST is acting out again” during that process.
When it comes to using the Wink hub to update the firmware on the Tapt switch to get it paired and usable with the default device type, does it matter which version of the Wink hub is used (or is there only one version?) Can this work with the AC outlet plugin version of the Wink hub?
It won’t work with the Link hub. You need to use the Wink hub to update firmware. The Link hub (outlet version you speak about) is only for GE Link bulbs.
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Thanks!
I just didn’t know exactly what’s what, I guess.
Thanks a lot for clearing that up for me.
We should still use the custom device type if we can’t get this thing paired with our Wink hub to get it upgraded first, right?
I tried and tried to get my Wink hub to see this thing and it just wasn’t happening.
Of course, my ST hub ID’ed it immediately through this custom device type. But this was its first hookup so I ASSUME it’s still on the old firmware (guess I could remove the device type and device and re-scan just to see if it’s found without the latest Wink firmware…but I’m lazy…)
No, you can remove the custom device type completely. You can either remove and add it back to smartthings or just change the device type to “ZigBee Switch”.
I have one of the first ever shipped TAPTs and it’s never been connected to a Wink hub and it works with the default ST device type of ZigBee Switch
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Worked perfect, thanks. And it’s reporting status this way too just as was said. Perfect.
No idea why the bugger would not pair with the Wink hub but that’s why ST rules. Thanks.
I’ve purchased and installed 10 TAPT switches. here is what i have learned.
Installation:
-These are not easy to install physically.
- They take up a lot of space in the box.
- The “finger trap” connectors don’t work well and take up even more space
I would recommend using an electrician if you are not extremely comfortable with household wiring.
Setup:
I spent many many hours trying to get these to work right and not drop off the network. In the end, it came down to WiFi channel and Zigbee channel overlap.
symptoms: i would connect 3-5 switches, then one would stop responding. then more would stop responding. so only about half would work.
*the only way to reset the switch is to power cycle it. likely at the breaker. once they don’t connect after 3 tries, they won’t connect until reset.
that meant that i would reset several switches, some of which were working, only to have other ones stop working.
Updating the firmware: i went and bought a wink hub. and updated my switches.
-they go from 0.20b/0.06a to 0.20b/0.10a
-also, when triggering remotely, the LEDs on the switch flash twice on top OR bottom depending on if you are turning off or on the switch. before the update, both LEDs will flash either way.
that didn’t fix my problem though. switches would still drop off after connecting.
i finally read about these switches having low antenna power and how you can get interference from WiFi. i looked up the channel cross overs on google and moved my WiFi to the other side of the spectrum from the Zigbee channel. After that, no switches have disconnected for over a week.
these still only work at switches on load. they don’t send button presses, only state change, so you can’t double click “on” on the switch and preform a custom function.
that said, they are fast and accurate now. i can turn them all on in under 3 seconds, all reporting state immediately. they now work as i had hoped.
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Installed one and it’s been working great. Hasn’t dropped and reports status quickly. One issue I’m having is my amazon echo doesn’t recognize it as a device…
You need to authorize that switch in the SmartThings Amazon SmartApp
The echo doesn’t see it even though I’ve tried the discovery mode multiple times.
Discovery won’t find it until you authorize that device in the SmartThings Amazon SmartApp
Do not have to remove and re-add. simply edit the device and change it’s type to “zigbee switch”