It means i can now automated zigbee devices connected to Xiaomi’s Hub using Home Assistant. It does not have a Zigbee controller so you can’t add cree bulb but you can plug in a zwave stick which allows you to add zwave devices.
It is also possible to connect to ST from Home Assistant. If you have Cree bulb connected to ST, you can control it from HA (Home Assistant).
The reason i use HA is because it uses local processing and does not depends on cloud. Everything happens and trigger instantly. But if you’re good with ST cloud, i recommend to go with ST
Cree is zigbee which is why I ask. I’m very interested in all locally processing but I currently have about 9 cree (zigbee) bulbs as well as 4 iris smart plugs (also zigbee) and from searches don’t see a way to control them in HA. If the xiaomi hub could at least connect with other zigbee devices that are non xiaomi then maybe it could work?
Once you get the HA setup working can you share the steps? Are you running it all on a Raspberry Pi? Do you mean you have HA connected to Xiaomi’s Hub and then control all the xiaomi devices through HA? I’m more interested in local processing with HA as well. That means I don’t even need to get a ST hub
I’ve opened up the smart plug (zigbee edition) with a dremel. It is glued together extremely well. Unfortuately, the circuit looks very complex and I’m not sure if I can decipher how to bypass the 240V input and power it via 12V/5V. The relay used to switch the plug on/off is a 5V relay, so i’m sure the entire logic circuit runs on that.
The door/window sensors device handler with battery works fine for me. As for HA, my head is spinning trying to figure it out :). I just installed it last night to mess with it. I’d like to bypass the cloud too.
Yeah, i wrote a plugin for Home Assistant and it works pretty well. You don’t even need to use the Mi Home app anymore. I’m currently running on raspberry pi 3.
Wow, no wonder i can’t opens it with my hand. Is the Ground pin a bypass? Is it used in any of the circuit? I’m looking to use it like a sonoff, to control my lights which only has a live and neutral wire.
Glad it works for you. HA is a little complex i think. And i just ran into another problem with HA, it seems like i won’t be able to port forward the raspberry pi IP, which means i won’t be able to access my devices from the web… Hope there’s another way around that
Why can’t you fwd the ports? That should be a router configuration, it shouldn’t matter what device or OS you’re running as long as you set a static ip in your router and fwd the ports it should work…
Well, that’s because my router is behind a NAT router. So technically, i don’t have a public IP address. Made a mistake of subscribing to that 3rd party internet provider for a year. But because i don’t live in the city, there aren’t that many choices.
Have you tried contacting the service provider? I am in a similar position and I contacted my service provider to let then know I have a home server with files I need access to and they gave me an ip address direct to the Internet and all is well.
Disclaimer: just an end user without any affiliation with either SmartThings or Xiaomi trying to help out.
Prerequisites: Install the Xiaomi device type found here (general installation instructions can be found in the FAQ):
Please note: pairing of the sensors must be done in close proximity of your hub: 0 ,5-1M (approx 1-3 feet)
Start with opening the sensor box and take the large oval sensor out. Move it close to the smaller bit, back and forth, and make sure that the small opening on the top (below the logo) reacts by lighting up 1 time when you are within range/fall out of range. If so, all is working well! if not, try a device reset by following the next step:
Open the large oval sensor by carefully prying it open, remove the white lid containing the circuit board and battery from the grey bottom part.When removing the battery you have to angle it from getting caught on the edge of the white casing. Wait at least 5 seconds, then put then battery back in its slot. Make sure to line up the protruding pin on the grey bottom part away from the battery, otherwise the top and bottom won’t close. A firm snap will indicate that the parts are closed properly.
Whip your phone/tablet out, and open the ST app. When on the “My Home” screen (as indicated by 4 squares on the bottom selection row), scroll all the way down to “+ Add a Thing” and click this row
While the screen indicates that the hub is searching for new devices, insert a small needle/paperclip into the small hole on the bottom part of the oval (NOT the light indication hole on top of the oval) and hold it for 3 seconds. Once the blue light starts flashing, you start clicking the switch inside the hole fast as you can (with just enough force to make it click, this step can take a while so don’t give up: the more you jerk it, the closer to completion you will come) until the screen on you device indicates “Devices found…” and a window with the text “Thing” and “rename device” appears.
Name your device accordingly, click “save” in the upper right corner, Confirm Paired Devices by clicking OK. Once exited back into your “Things” list, you will see a new unknown device with the name you entered
Log in to your smarthings management account (for me https://graph-eu01-euwest1.api.smartthings.com but you might be on a different chard), Click “My Devices” and scroll to new device that is indicated with Type Unknown. Click the name and “Edit” at the bottom of the page
Change type (in my case from “2015 Samsung TV”) to Xiaomi Door/Window Sensor that you should have installed before you ventured into all of this. Assign the device to a group should you so be inclined, then click “Update”
Go back to your phone/tablet and open the ST app and go to the “My Home” screen, scroll to your new device - now with a proper icon indicating wether the sensor is open or closed. Verify that everything is working by moving the small headache-pill-shaped magnet back and forth from the main sensor. If all is working well: marvel at the immediate-ish response (0,3 to 1 sec)
Without removing the adhesive covers, place the sensor + magnet on the desired locations of the door/window frame. A good rule of thumb is to keep the sensor away from possible exposure to water, and therefore place it on the wall frame, while placing the small magnet on the swinging door/window frame. Take a few minutes to find the correct location of each piece by testing the connection sweet spot while watching your phone/tablet to see the open/closed indication.
Rinse and repeat for the next installation. Having done this 15+ times, I can attest that following the above steps will result in functional pairing. If it will last more than a few hours: time will tell.
YMMV. I will not be held responsible nor liable for any damages in case you follow these instructions and things break. Please use common sense. “Don’t put your dog in the microwave to dry it when it’s wet”-kinda thinking. Don’t feed the lawyers. Be good, do good.
So far all 10 of my door and motion sensors I have, do not stay working overnight. Is everyone else not seeing this? Basically I’m seeing the same problem the original posters of this thread are seeing. Strange that we seem to have lots of people reporting success recently.
Yes Ground pin is a bypass. The Neutral is connected together. Live is controlled by the relay. They definitely will be able to control your lights. The biggest problem then will be to open it. I’m not sure if I’ve damaged something either since the dremel did skin some components too. Are you putting this behind a wall switch? If there is enough room I recommend just crimp the L & N wires onto the plug pins. Then install a standard plug onto the light end and plug into the smart plug.
If you must open this one, dremel around the back where the pins are along the seam. Once you pop the case off, you need to desolder the L & N pins. Once you do that, then the plastic base pops together off with the pins.
I’ve seen some photos of people opening up the old style of smart plug, the bigger version. That looks easier to do if you must open these up.
with your router, are you saying that your router is connected to a NAT router that’s owned by the internet provider? Can you setup the Pi to work with port 443 or 8080 or something that you don’t need forwarding on? Hopefully you can solve it!
