I got it to work in heat mode but not cooling mode. The cooling mode doesn’t have terminals that can be used by ecobee. In cooling mode variable speed is the only option. I’m heating mode you can choose.
In the end I reinstalled the iComfort thermostat. I rigged up an automation to control it through Alexa since they have an Alexa skill. I use BigTalker from Sonos to ask Alexa to do things with the thermostat. Robot talking to a robot… squirrelly but it works.
True … so true… And BigTalker refuses to say a number properly unless you put a word after it so what is even funnier is my Sonos speaker asks Alexa to set bedroom temperature to 64 please. If he leaves off please Alexa ignores him. It’s like husband and wife. And of course I use a male voice on Sonos for effect
Hey all, not sure if it’ll help but I was able to get my Lennox SLP98V Furnace and Lennox XC17 AC unit to work successfully with AC and Heat, I was using the old Lennox iComfort Wi-Fi that used the R, C, i+, i- wiring. It was pretty easy to wire up the heat to work, but the AC is what took me a while. On my Furnace’s control board there were a couple things hooked into these 2 ports, TB83 and TB84.
TB84 had my old iComfort, and some other weird thing, but TB83 had the same R, C, i+, i- wires going out to my AC unit, i went out there, and saw that there was a Y1, Y2, C, and R.
I simply attached those 4, to their corresponding places on the furnace’s control board. Threw together what i did.
Hello Seton,
Thank you for the clear graph and it really helps a lot. I have the exact furnace + AC combo as you do. Couple question regards to your graph and set up,
-From the SLP98V manual, for a 2 stage Heat/ 2 stage cool set up, the graph is missing the G wire from the control board to the Nest. Do you leave it out on purpose ?If so how did it go without the fan control?
-I know you need to set the board to non-communicating mode, may I know how exactly you do it? Which DIP switch you need turn on/off, and anything else you did on the board for it to work?
Ah! thank you for that, completely forgot to draw G, ill make a note of that in my original post.
As far as setting the board, i didn’t change anything that i remember? but to be honest its been a while since i did this and forget. I’d make sure to look at the dip switch diagram from your furnace to see if theres anything that should be changed.
I will mention the only problem i have with the system is there’s no independent zone control (we have a 2 zone system).
I want to thank you all. I have a Lennox ML180UHE furnace, with an AC condenser outside. After reading these posts I got brave and went up to the attic. My furnace has your standard W-C-G-Y-R plugs, and they had wired those 5 wires out to another box, which then turned the signal into the C-R-I+,I-, requiring the communicating thermostats.
I’ve gathered that you do lose a bit of advancement of the system, but my system is just a single blower, single heater and no extras system, so the communicating setup was just being wasted on my basic system.
I got some new wire, bypassed the communicating Lennox Icomfort box, and ran right down the wall. Connected from the furnace board directly to the new Sensi thermostat, and it worked right away!
The issue I did have, I must not have been too careful with the power, because I took off the thermostat after it was working, hung it on the wall, and plugged it back in, and the entire system was dead. After an hour of searching and cursing, reinstalling the old setup to no avail, I figured out it was the fuse, and popped in a new fuse and it was good to go.
Thanks everyone for the comments. With these I was able to replace my broken icomfort with an Ecobee3Lite. I have the SLP98U furnace, and the M/N XC17 air conditioner.
This thermostat has a power extender kit (which converts 4 thermostat wires into 5 at the furnace to complete the circuit and power the thermostat if you don’t have a C wires.
Here’s what I did:
Thermostat: installed just as directed by Ecobee
Furnace:
Thermostat wires: Removed thermostat wires from R,I+, I- C. Those wires go into the PEK. The PEK wires into the conventional slots (W1, G, Y1, C, R).
Air Conditioner Wires: Moved from “outdoor equipment” to conventional wires, R → R, C → C, I+ → Y1, (Y2 is attached in picture, but not used by thermostat)
My iComfort thermostat shuts off at night. I want to replace it with a Nest 3rd generation thermostat. I checked the connection of the indoor and outdoor units. The wiring ports look the same as what was posted by @Seton_Carmichael. I have some questions:
@Seton_Carmichael@Tyler_Goeckner-Zoell What do you do with the wires to TB83 and TB84? Unplug them all? Or would there be an issue if I keep them and just add the new connection according to your diagram?
Molly, your connection to the outdoor unit doesn’t use Y2. Do you know the difference between your connection and the additional connection to Y2?
My icomfort wifi display just died. I also have a single blower system. Are new wires necessary? Could you install a new Nest thermostat with the existing 4 wires by disconnecting those wires from the Lennox control box and rerouting them to the furnace board directly?
Hi there - suggest you read through this thread. Standard thermostat wiring doesn’t work with iComfort thermostats unless you reconfigure the furnace as explained in several posts here. I sold my home that has this Lennox system so now I’m a happy camper with a more standard setup - even though my heater unit is still Lennox it doesn’t have the same goofy setup. Check your system to see if your old thermostat was a digital one with an intermediary box. If it is you will need to rewire it to use a Nest or Ecobee.
I know this is a few months old. I have a Lennox system (new furnace and heatpump) that came with the iComfort wifi thermostat and it died on me recently…less than 5 years old.
I am looking to move to a 3rd generation Nest learning thermostat.
It appears your setup is similar to mine. I have the four wires connected to each the indoor and outdoor equipment with the same R i+ i- C on each.