Internal contacts on ecolink door sensor (DWZWAVE2.5-ECO)

Got it… thanks. I’ll try the automotive relay trick. The 12v from from the float should energize the relay and the other two terminals that the relay will open will be hooked up to the sensor. Easy enough. I’ll be heading up to the cabin this Thursday and will do this then. I’ll let you know how it goes.

I just ordered this:

It seems it will look cleaner than just an automotive relay dangling around.

I’m assuming this would work? The relay energizes at 12v which is what the float switch sends when it’s activated. I’d then hook the dry contact switch to the NO terminals on the relay correct?

The reason I like the RIB’s is they are all enclosed and made to mount on the side of a junction box so you can see the light when they are activated but don’t have any exposed wires. But what you bought should work fine.

I didn’t see your recommendation on the relay before. I like it, so I ordered that one instead!

Thank You!

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Lay question, I swear…

Attached is a drawing and the wiring scamatic of the relay.

Basically cut the black (neg) wire and wire put the relay inline with it? Black wire from float gets attached to relay’s wht/blu wire then relay’s wht/yell wire gets attached back to the float’s black wire going to panel? Then wire the sensor’s dry contacts to the relay’s common (yellow) and the Normally Open (org) wire?


This is awesome. So many possibilities doing this. I’m sure I could even set something up with my smoke alarms as they are inter-connected using this same setup. It would save money over buying zwave smoke alarms.

Yeah, that should work. And yes, thats how I would wire it also.

As for the smoke, if you have Kidde sensors: Integrating Kidde Smoke / CO Sensors into SmartThings Properly .

And if you really want to be able to pull a whole bunch of stuff into your system relatively cheap: [RELEASE] ST_Anything v2.9 - Arduino/ESP8266/ESP32 to ST via ThingShield, Ethernet, or WiFi

There is a lot you can do if you are willing to play with it.

Ok… so I wired it up as described and tested it. It did trip the smartthings sensor which is awesome. The light on the relay also turned on when the float ”floated”. However, the buzzer doesn’t work anymore. I’m thinking there isn’t enough voltage after the relay to go to the negative terminal on the buzzer panel? If that makes sense? Like the relay is robbing all the power. I kind of want the buzzer to buzz as well as trio the zwave sensor.

Any ideas?

I can’t imagine the relay drawing that much power to not have your buzzer make noise but ya never know.

How about first taking the relay out of the circuit and re-testing to make sure the float going high sets off the buzzer like normal. Once thats verified working are you sure the alarm panel is pushing out 12+ and then returning to ground? Is the input on the alarm panel just called “input”? Can you get a picture of it?

I think you need to put the relay across the float power and not in series with it. According to the coil spec that relay pulls 15ma @ 12VDC. Your essentially putting a 800ohm resistor in series with your buzzer. By putting it in parallel as long as your float can provide an additional 15ma or current your voltage to the buzzer will remain the same. That voltage drop across the relay coil is probably what is causing you buzzer not to work.

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Yea I believe this is the problem. And I figure I’d have to run it in parallel. It can’t figure out how to do it. I mean I know what it means to run it in parallel I just don’t know how to do it in this situation. If I connect it to, what I think, is parallel, it would basically just close the circuit and energize the relay and and trip the alarm constantly. See image… maybe I’m thinking of this wrong. image

Are there smaller relay’s that draw less power?

Your drawings are correct. If I understand what you have here The float is not shorting it is turning on a power source, +12VDC. That 12VDC is energizing you buzzer. In your parallel drawing, the +12VDC now energizes your buzzer and the relay. The coil resistance of the relay across the buzzer should have no effect.

Unless something else is going here that you’re not explaining, that should work.

Yeah, I’m a little confused which is why I asked for pictures of the panel. I was under the impression that the panel was pushing out +12 and looking for the return (first post mentions this) so if put in parallel you just be completing the circuit regardless of the float which is why it would need to be in series.

Or if the buzzer is coming off of the panel when the float triggers then you could put the relay across the buzzer parallel so it activates both the relay and the buzzer at the same time and effectively do the same thing. Think we need more info…

here are pictures. The panel sends power to float switch which is open when not “floated”. When float switch “floats” it closes circuit and sets off alarm. When I connect relay as shown in drawinh, it sets off alarm (at a lower volume) and trips zwave. I figured this would happen. As vseven said, you basically bypassing the float switch and just energizing the relay (path of least resistance). I think I may have to choose if I want just a zwave alert or the buzzer. I’m not sure if I can do both unless I do something fancier or buy different panel with outputs or something. I could probably open the panel and tap off of something too

Below should represent what you have. Unless I am missing something. Whether the float is completing the positive or negative side of circuit should not matter.

OK the power is on the buzzer and the float completes to ground. So you need to get the relay coil as shown which you probably don’t have access to, unless you can open the box.

You could just tie the float to the Ecolink and then have ST turn on a buzzer or somehow power your current buzzer with a smart plug, that would turn on when the float closes.

This is what you have now, I take it

Yeah, I would think it could power it in series. The part about the buzzer not being as loud kinda gives it away though…that RIB is pretty low power draw and still affecting it.

Can you possible open up the box and see how the buzzer is wired in and parallel the buzzer? So when the buzzer goes off so does the relay?

Otherwise as Mike said maybe just use the EcoLink as a dry contact on the float and get yourself a alarm that can be triggered when the EcoLink closes.

I got it working. I just opened up the box, cut the wires to the buzzer and wired the relay in parallel with the buzzer. It works now. Tested it by shorting the terminals going to float switch. Volume of buzzer loud and sends alert to phone. Just need to find or write a device handler. Shoews it open or active when idle and closed or inactive when buzzer is going off.

I like this way because I can also trigger the zwave sensor when I press “test” on the alarm box

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Awesome! Glad you got it working. For the device handler do you mean you just want to update the screen to say “Alarm” and “Normal” instead of open/closed?

Yes! Know one I can use? Or even active or inactive but like the alarm and normal better.

I was going to see if I could find the generic zwave open/close DH and just modify it to say alarm and normal

I’m assuming the EcoLink is using the default “Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor” ( Easiest thing to do would be to copy that code into your IDE (Device Handlers -> New Device -> From Code and change the name on line 20 so you know its customized). Once its there change lines 56 and 57, remove the ‘${name}’ part and put in what you want like “Alarm” and “Normal”. Leave the icons but you probably want to reverse the background colors too so closed will show in orange and open (normal for you) will show in blue. Save it, publish it for you, and under My Devices switch the device to using your new one.

PM me if you need help.

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