Hooking up a 3way switch, one zwave and one regular

Is it at all possible to hookup (on an existing 3way switch) one zwave rocker switch and have the other switch a regular switch? The reason being is to still be able to switch on the light in case of an outage.
I am new to all of this so I am still trying to figure out how everything works.

I just told my wife of my plans and she said so if the Internet is down we can’t turn on the lights.
I don’t expect the Internet to be down but am trying to eliminate “the look” if our connection does go down and she try’s to turn on the lights :slight_smile:

Most z wave switches (including 3 ways) will still turn off\pn the light even if the hub is down. They are relays in the switches which trip when the button is pressed. The only way this would not happen is if the switch is no physically connected to the load or you are using those HUE bulbs where each one is a z wave device. I have a: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZS15-1LZ-Decora-Controls-Capable/dp/B00LEWQYHG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1419992113&sr=1-2&keywords=leviton+z+wave

with the following remote and it works fine if the hub is down.


zwave or zigbee switches will always work from their attached real switch, internet or no internet. If your internet is down you will loose the ability to control the lights from the ST application and any smart apps that run that light. You will always have local control over the light.

Thanks to both of you for straightening me out :slight_smile: That makes sense now that you explain it…sorry but I’m new.
I am using a Jasco 45609 and 45610 so those should work the same.

Sorry for the dumb question but thanks for answering.

@swindmiller, welcome to ST and the community, and no questions are dumb!

I use the same switches you mention above. They work great. Just remember you will need a neutral wire (typically white) in each location. The 45609 is the switch doing all the work - it is the switch controlling the lights, so if you can get that switch to turn on/off the lights you are 90% done. The 45610 uses the traveler wire to connect to the 45609 to send the signal to turn on/off the switch, it does not control the light/load itself.

Look at page 6 here:

Thanks…I did take a peek and I do have neutral wires in the box.

The other thing to remember is that the 45610 isn’t an actual switch, and thus doesn’t get a hot wire into it. The traveler wire is just for signaling, not line/load.

I may or may not have fried one that way…

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Thanks, I was just reading your post about the Lowes switches. I did not realize the Lowes ones were the same. I am going to pick up a pair of them (for the same price I paid for one on Amazon) tonight and try them out.


This page is very useful for comparing switches and features, particularly if you have any old wiring without neutral wires:


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Thanks…that helps!

I just hooked up 3 switches, 2 in a 3way and one single and they work great. First time ever swapping an outlet, all the info here helped me greatly. You may have created a monster, I will be swapping all my outlets out now for zwave outlets. :smile:


Scott - I’ve been doing the same thing and feel like I’m getting addicted! :smile:

I’ve swapped out 2 single switches and 2 dimmers so far. I would like to do a 3-way now, but only have the z-wave single switches. Do I need to get a compatible switch for the traveler line - or can it work with the old traveler switch?

As far as I know you have to have a compatible switch but they are not as expensive. I originally bought the GE 45609 and would have need this one GE 45610 in addition which is $20 compared to $41 for the single switch. After I had bought the single switch I found out you can use these Lowes Iris switches that are $45 for BOTH switches, $4 more then what I paid for one and appear today be the same switch. I used the lowes switches for my 3 way and the 45609 for a single switch.
From now on though I am buying the lowes brand.

Be careful when you hook up the aux. switch as you only connect the traveler, ground and neutral and tie the 2 power wire together. Otherwise you will destroy the switch.

I hope this helps!

Yep - that’s exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Thread necro!

So I want to make sure this is right - to control a light that is currently wired with 2 different switches, using the GE Zwave switch, I need a GE 45609 (the zwave switch) and a second ge 45610. I do not need to run a traveler wire, do I? Just the power and the neutral and ground. (black, white and copper).

And the Lowes Iris system is the same package?

Read the manual for the specific model that you were looking at. As far as I know, all the GE zwave switches still use a physical traveler wire. Most other brands don’t.

Yup, I bought 5 of those packages, and they work perfectly.

You’ll need a traveler wire for sure.

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So does traveler wire need to be installed? Or do I use the red wire? Sounds like this might need a real electrician…

Otherwise maybe I can use the Linear wt00z-1 and wd500z-1 pair?

In my house the red wire was the traveler and I used it. The neutral, ground, and traveler all connect to the slave switch and the two black wires get twisted together.

You can use a regular 3 way if you want to just control on/off after the zwave switch is turned on. But you cannot turn on the light from a normal rocker switch if the zwave switch is not turned on unless you get the $20 switch being described above.

This would be on the other end of your zwave 3 way: