I have the Smart dimmer 12724 and add on switch 12723, the application is a three way with the light mid run.My gut says that the wires at the end of the line should be wired to the add on switch as they are currently with the addition of the neutral. But i would like to know if anyone else has installed the switch in a similar situation.
I believe even with smart switches, this is the correct way by electrical code to wire 3-way switches together.
There are least eight different ways to wire three way switches that will meet US codes. Just depends on the details.
However not all of them will work for SmartSwitches. The diagram linked to in post 2 will not work with most SmartSwitches because there is no neutral to the switch.
See the wiring FAQ:
No smart switches are unique in that even the remote switch requires a neutral, specifically the GE switches add on or remote requires a ground, traveler and a neutral nothing more in a typical installation. I have a non-typical installation where the three-way remote switch is at the end of the line and the light is mid run between the switches. I was hoping for only responses from people who can read the original post and offer input that is correct.
There’s an issue with the Z wave GE switches in particular, because they require that both the master and the aux be on the same neutral, and to be honest I’m just not sure how that works when the light is Midway.
@Navat604 is a lot better at wiring than I am, he might know.
If it’s not easy, another option would be to choose a different brand where the aux is just an RF remote and doesn’t need a traveler wire. It does have to have power, although there are also some that are battery-powered like the Cooper. But basically the aux talks to the hub and the hub talks to the master. Just another possibility.
But again, I was a network engineer, not an electrician. So there may be other people who have much better ideas about the original set up.
As mentioned by @JDRoberts . There are many ways to look up a 3 ways. If you go here and look at the wiring. GE will work with option 3 or 4. If you have option 7 or 8. Then an Aeon micro, Linear switches or relay will work. The tricky part is figuring out what you have.
Based on your original post, it sounds like your light/switches are connected like option #3 in the link that @Navat604 posted. If you look closely you’ll notice that the two traveler wires between switch #1 and switch #2 merely pass through the light junction box and the light is connected to the ungrounded (neutral) run. This configuration meets the requirements laid out in NEC 404.2.
As stated by previous posters, the GE switches will work with options #3 and #4, but will require some rewiring inside of the three boxes, with the biggest change coming from only needing two conductors (plus a ground) going to switch #2.
I have the option 3 layout, the end run is where I’m confused I’m not sure how to wire the add on switch. I believe the main switch can be wired per the manual but still what to do at the end.
Here is what to do. The red wire will be your traveler. So no need to do any mod to it. Just hook up traveler at both switch.
The black wire from you aux (add on switch) to the light fixture cap off both end. You no longer need this wire.
The white wire from aux to light fixture will be your neutral. Remove the black wire from it at the light fixture and hook it with the white from the light bulb and master switch white.
The black wire from the light bulb. The one you remove from the last step will be your load. connect it to the black wire from the master switch. This black wire is now your load at the master switch.
Hopefully this will help. I can mod the picture later when I get on my desktop if it’s not clear.
See the attached sketch on how you can hook up your switch. Notice that you will only require two of the three conductors going between the light and the add-on switch.
Also note that I did not include the grounds, but those shouldn’t change…
Best of luck.
Thanks to everyone for your help, I truly appreciate it.
Has anyone confirmed that Ray’s explanation or Matt’s diagram works properly?
Just so everyone knows, I tried the diagram Matt drew up today and everything works great! Thanks Matt!