GE 12724/12723 Zwave 3 Way Wiring - Help My Issue

I am really perplexed here - Hoping that it can be resolved.

Currently - There is no power to the light using the NEW GE Switches wired as above.
However, the Smart Switch appears to be working as the light is Blue and the Smart App thinks the light is coming on and off.

I tested the bare wires - (From the left side Switch)
RED Connecting with WHITE Shows Current
RED Connecting with GROUND shows Current
Connecting the bare wire Black & White - the light goes on. (The Smart Switch 12724 is active)

This basically creates a on/off circuit - However, this does not give me a 3 way switch.


Did you see this post?

Maybe it will help?

Thanks- This might apply to my circumstance. I am hoping it is incorrect
and I can find a way to have this supported in my 3 way.

You will need to trace the wire out from your main switch (one working) to the remote switch.
On GE switches the remote switch requires neutral, traveler, and ground. The traveler is coming from the main switch traveler.
If in your remote box you have a black, white, and red, and these all 3 go directly to the main switch then typically you cap the black at both ends. Hook red to traveler on main switch and remote switch, hook white to neutral on remote switch and to a neutral bundle in main box.

A drawing, picture of what you have would help. We’re all guessing since we are not there to verify it.

PLEASE be careful and aware of what your doing. It’s VERY easy to make a simple.mistake that could be deadly. Ensure power is off EVERY time you wire something and verify you understand your connections and they are right before applying power again.

Just more guessing, but as a start, something in the “current” setup just isn’t right - what you’ve outlined as the original configuration wouldn’t have worked, plus there’s no reason for there to be a common on the old three-way. My guess is that the white on the left is not Common, but goes to the load. The red and black on the left are the travelers and match the red and non-power black from the right. The right switch state determines which of red and black carries power between the switches, and the left switch state determines whether that gets connected to the white load wire.
IF that is right, what you would do is tie the black to the white on the left, so switched power from the Smart Dimmer goes to the load, and plug the red into the Add-On as instructed so switch state gets communicated back to the Smart Dimmer. Label the white as “Load” since it should be black. If you need a common on the add-on, need to add one.

But really, when you’ve run into a situation like this where things aren’t normal, the safest bet is to hire a professional.

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Thank you - You may be on to something here.

I have the GE Smart Dimmer 12724 Wired up …I then …

Connect the bare wires White-Black (from the original left switch)
The Smart GE Switch Works 12724 with my Overhead light goes on.
But obviously I don’t have a 3 way control. (It acts as a On/Off)

I could twist the White-Black Together -
The RED has the power. (Connect to the GE Switch Top)
Can I create pulling a White Common (Connect to bottom of switch) from the
Bundle in the Switch Box (since there are other switches in the box)

I think I figured this out … Maybe -

White and Black (Left Circuit) should be wired together (This turns on the
Pull a NEW White Line from the White Bundle in the Box
Connect Red Top and New White Common bottom to the Dimmer Add on Switch

I’ll have to do more testing before I do this.


The original 3 Way working connection diagram is listed on top of this thread -

Before the modern electronic age - (Pre-1960’s) how do you think people tested wiring ?
(as long as it is not 240V)

Ummm, just like they do now, with a freaking multi meter, or at the least a standard incandescent bulb connected to two test probes…