Not sure about his use of the extra outlet. I just set mine up with the relay wired to the contacts on the side of the opener that the wall box connects to. I’ll add a sensor to the door next week but for now with an IFTTT recipe and Launch Center Pro on our phones we all can open the garage doors with our iPhones.
Hi @jimcil, I used a remote connected to the relay, as an easier way to troubleshoot. You don’t want to cliemb up to the garage door opener every time it doesn’t work. In my case, all I do is check the clicker and if it does not respond, all I do is change the battery on it.
@Conan_Lloyd, I use the power module between the outlet and the garage door as a safety. I and another person on ST had an idiot drive through their neighborhood with a frequency blaster opening all the garage doors. After that, I found ST and used them to protect my vulnerable garage door.
@Conan_Lloyd Thanks for your reply!
@lmosenko I thought about using a remote, but I only have one extra remote. I do have three buttons on the remote, which can be independently programmed. I guess I could hook one relay up to one button and another relay up to the other. That would certainly simplify my setup, but it would take up two outlets in the same location. I wonder if I could hook both relays up to one power cable?
I see that the Linear FS20Z is less expensive than the Evolve LFM-20, but are there limitations compared to the Evolve based on your experience?
Thanks!
In theory, you can. However, I would not recommend you do that as this may create a short and trigger a fire between the 2 relays. The simpler choice is to use an extension cord with two outlets on it.
@jimcil I used the Linear FS20Z, and it has worked great. I initially also used the Ecolink tilt sensor, but returned it because of all the false positives. I now use the Smartthings multi-sensor, which has been very accurate.
I had to strip the blue wires of the Linear device because it wouldn’t fit in to the wire terminals of the garage door opener. other than that I used a computer power cable to connect the linear to the secondary plug outlet, next to the garage door opener.
Finally I used the presence sensors in our vehicles, but these work about 90% of the time. They work great when picked up by the hub, but due to the cloud integration, there are times that the garage door wont open for 20-30 seconds. Also when the battery gets really low, it sometimes triggers the garage door to open when you don’t want it to.
Do to paranoia, I have put a camera on the door, and have uninstalled the auto open due to presence smart app. I hope this helps.
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@Lupismaximus This does help! Thank you for all of the good information. With so much information and products out there it’s hard to know what to go with without hearing from others.
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I agree. I also added am IP camerat to watch the garage door for motion.
When you setup the Linear in the ST app, did you just choose the “Evolve” fixture module since the Linear is not a device type listed?
Thanks
Yes I did. All the needed choices are there for ST control.
Hey Dan99,
Can you provide and explanation of how to connect the FS20Z-1 in parallel to my garage door opener?
That depends a lot on your specific garage door opener.
The relay switched contacts should be wired to the same wires as the remote push button. So that way, when the relay closes, it “shorts out” the two contacts on the garage door opener as if the remote button was pushed.
If I remember correctly, the blog post describing the automated garage door, had pretty good instructions.
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Success but no success! So I’m happy to say that after several cramps in my shoulder, I got it hooked up to the garage door opener and connected the blue wires to the wires of my push button open/closer. I have it paired and can see it connected to my hub. I have both Android and iPhone devices. If I tap to toggle it on, I can hear the power click in the opener but unfortunately the garage door does not open. I checked all normal devices such as the opener in my car, the keypad outside, and the push button I tapped into and they all work. My garage door opener is a Craftsman if it matters. My assumption is that it does not. I would love some help.
David
So your relay is powered continuously? And then the blue wires go to the same two screw terminals where the push buttons are connected? Does the garage door open / close if you temporarily short out the same two terminals with a short piece of insulated wire?
Can you post a picture of your wiring, and perhaps the model number of your opener?
If you are following my original instructions, than during the ST setup, you need to tell ST that this is a Garage Door and not a Standard Door. Also, depending on your proficiency with Hacking hardware, I recommend you mod a Garage Door Remote instead of connecting the relay directly to the opener. I myself had some inconsistencies with the door opening/closing part way when the relay was connected directly to the Garage Door Opener.
If you need help with Hacking a remote, there are many Youtube videos on how to do it correctly.
P.S. If something dosn’t work, please post photos of the problem here and we will try and help.
Hey Dan,
So attached are some photos. Yes, my blue wires go to the same terminals where the push button is connected as I just split the wires from the push button. My push button also has a light button. I’m wondering if this may interfere. One of the wires from the push button has a red line on it. I do not know how or understand how to short out the terminals.
Your advice is appreciated.
David
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That looks correct. My relay is wired the same way. My remote switch also has a button for a light, and the switch itself has a green LED.
Did you follow the instructions on how to add the devices as a garage door in the SmartThings app? It’s been so long that I can’t remember the exact way. It has to be set up as a garage door.
By shorting out, I mean briefly touching the wires inside the wire nuts together to simulate what happens when the relay opens and closes.
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I had the same problem when I wired directly into the garage door opener like you’re attempting to do in these photos.
In my case I had a newer garage door opener that has an encrypted opening signal coming from the button on the wall.
You can easily test if this is the case by jumping* the two wires coming from your wall switch.
(*touch a screwdriver or scrap wire between the two wires)
If your garage door goes up, it’s an older unit and your current setup should work.
If it doesn’t move it’s probably a newer unit and you’ll need to wire it to the little cpu board in the wall mounted unit.
It’s not as hard as you’d think, just find the switch on the board and start touching the contactors on either side of the switch with a scrap piece of wire until you figure out which two are needed to move the door.
Connect your two blue wires to those two contactors and BOOM - your done!
Basically the Linear FS20Z-1 will “press the button” and the electrical signal will match the encrypted signal the opener is expecting from the wall switch.
good luck!
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For that reason, I soldered the relay to to one of my Garage door remotes.
I got the idea to wire it to the wall switch from your post about using the garage door opener and the fact that you said you had to change the batteries in the remote every so often. 
That being said, I’m now at the point of making this operational with Linear FS20Z-1 connected to the smartthings hub as a z-wave switch and I need a little guidance on the best way to utilize it from here.
I tried editing the type from a z-wave switch to a z-wave garage door opener in the smartthings “my devices” tab and it says the status of the door is unknown, so I don’t think that’s going to work. Your thoughts on the matter?