Fireplace Dry Contact + Two Switches?

Currently I have much gas fireplace setup with a Remotec ZFM-80 and a hardwired normal toggle switch to manually control the fireplace if SmartThings or the Remotec are not working, say a power outage. I am moving all my switches from Z-Wave to Lutron’s offering and one thing I’ve always hated is the look of Remotec.

Is it possible to have a dry contract relay allowing me to then have a smart and dumb switch that both can operate the fireplace? I want a smart switch (Lutron) to be able to operate as needed remotely but also to have a physical on/off dumb switch which can kill the fireplace for emergencies or turn on without any power to the house. I do have an on switch under the fireplace so no big deal of the dumb switch won’t be able to do that as well but would be nice.

I hope what I am asking makes sense. And if there are any prior threads, sorry for another one. I just couldn’t find exactly what I am asking.

Is should be as long as the dry-contact can still close the circuit. Not unlike how a dry-contact works on a garage door.

You could use a Sonoff dry-contact inching switch to achieve this. I use one on a Samsung smart lock connected to the remote intercom relay to remotely control the door lock.

Some of the Sonoff can be flashed to run with Smartthings rather than using eWeLink but unsure of the inching switch.

The SV can be flashed to use with Smartthings but more complicated to use as a dry contact.

This is what I did:

@netsheriff Looks interesting. It’s making me really think of ways to get this to work and maybe that is it. So far in my head I don’t think I can get the dumb switch to turn on the fireplace but this could at least get me having the smart switch control it and the dumb switch could kill it in an emergency.

@rontalley I did read what you did before posting. It mostly does what I’m looking for but still has the con of say the hard dumb switch not able to kill the fireplace if turned on already by the smart switch. Or I was reading your post incorrectly.

Yeah, that was my thinking as well. You need the manual emergency kill. Even some sort gas sensor for an emergency alarm would be good.

I’ll say this since @JDRoberts hasn’t gotten to it yet. Be very careful with anything fire related. In most places in the US it’s against code to have anything controlling a fireplace that can be operated from outside of the room. That’s why IR remotes are OK. If it is against code, and it causes a fire, your insurance most likely won’t be responsible to pay out anything for damage to your home or any damage you cause to other people’s homes. So, not only is automating a gas fireplace a really bad idea from a safety standpoint, it isn’t a good financial one either. Ask some of the folks on here if they’ve ever woken up in the middle of the night to lights being on all of a sudden without turning them on.


I’m wondering if this would work.

I am moving most of my switches chest to Lutron Caseta. Hopefully this could work with it but even if their Select bridge is needed I could go that route as well but hoping to stick with Caseta.

Not sure just yet how this device will work. Trying to picture is in my head as I write this.

Okay, this wouldn’t work either. Unless I am reading incorrectly, it looks like you only can pair a pico remote and the remote talks to it directly. it doesn’t seem to have the ability to connect to anything outside of that such as the Caseta or Select bridges, or even full RA2.

Plus that device uses 24V power. Why would you want to run 24V power for one thing?

Would have to agree. Although I used a 120v to 24v transformer to a 24v contact. This was necessary, well…not really necessary, because I stole power for my Smart Switch from the fan for the fireplace.

My fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is to turn the fireplace on using micro thermal voltages from the pilot light. The other switch controls the fan which runs off of 120v. The fan has a thermal coupler that opens once the temperature reaches 120 degrees.

My setup takes the feed from the outlet, that’s inside the bottom of the fireplace, to the 120v to 24v transformer. Then from there, a 24v relay opens/closes the gas valve according to the status of the fan.

If ST turns on the fireplace, then it can be turned off either by the Smart Switch or by ST.
If the power goes off then the dry contact opens which turns off the circuit.
The manual switch still works in case of no power.

The only downside is, if you turn it on via the old manual switch, you must turn it off at that switch.
If you turn it on via ST, then it must be turned off via the Smart Switch.

It would be cool to have it either way (3-Way) but it really hasn’t been an issue for the last past 2 years.