The easiest way to do this would be not to use a GE master switch, but instead to use a linear/go control accessory switch at each position.
Unlike the GE add on switches, This device does have a Z wave radio, so it can communicate directly to the SmartThings hub. But it is not intended to control the fixture, so it’s easy to bypass Control of the load and leave the light fixture always on power.
That would give you the look you want and give you switches that would control the smart bulbs by having the switch talk to the hub and the hub talk to the bulb. The switch is widely available including at Home Depot and Lowe’s, so shop around as the prices will vary. It is sold under both the linear and the gocontrol name.
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y
This is the same approach as using the Eaton Cooper auxiliary switch discussed above, it’s just that the gocontrol switch is now a little easier to find and is a standard rocker design. 
The biggest problem is that there is going to be no Plan B: if the SmartThings cloud is not available or your hub is not working, you will have no switch that can turn the light bulbs on or off. Whether or not that’s a problem for you just depends on your own household situation and what other lighting you have in the room.
The advantage of the smart switch covers is that the original switch is still there underneath the cover if you need it. But I agree that the look is not as nice.
There is one other Plan B option: if your Hue bulbs are connected to the hue bridge you could set up a Hue tap or hue dimmer switch just for emergencies and keep it in a drawer and it would still work to turn the lights on and off even if your Internet is out or smartthings just isn’t working. I know you don’t like the aesthetics of those, but it might be worth the $25 investment just to have the Plan B. You can control bulbs in multiple rooms if they’re all connected to the same bridge, so again, it could just be for emergency lighting control.