Understandable, I completely get how to do this (I’m an engineer by trade), but it is as you’ve eluded, a terrible idea. I just wanted a zone cotroller by my main entry door, it seems this is not cut out for the task.
Regardless of what the code is supposed to do, it’s stopping at button 4. It’s properly aligned in my hub, registered correctly, but doesn’t control anything.. As I said, thanks for the assist, but this thing clearly doesn’t work right
As you can see… This Topic has over 400 posts.
Nobody said it was going to be easy.
But, in my home, it is working acceptably. There are very few alternatives at this time. There’s a FAQ on button controllers around here somewhere.
I’ve already pulled it out of the wall. THe whole point of these technologies are that they’re supposed to be easy. In a network of 47 devices, I’d think this would be relatively complicated, but I’m done after 2 hours reading and 3.5 hours of fiddling.
400 replies means it’s popular, not difficult. Most of these comments are about how great it is or oddities about some people’s not working the way everyone else 's does
Many people use a tablet dashboard for this purpose. You can get an inexpensive android tablet for around $50, or even a wifi iPhone for under 20. Combined with the popular community created SmartTiles app, you have a highly customizable modern zone controller.
The following topic is specifically for discussion of various mounting options for this lots of pictures, some very creative ideas:
Another alternative is the smartenIT 3 toggle switch. This is very simple, battery-operated, so you can put it anywhere. Works well with SmartThings.
That still leaves the issue of controlling the light which is controlled by the original dumb switch. You have some options there. You could use a micro relay inside the switchbox keeping the original dumb switch, or replace that individual switch with a smart switch.
So it’s not completely ideal as a substitute for the a SC7 since you end up adding the zone controller to the area rather than replacing the existing switch, but might be worth considering.
I appreciate your effort good sir!
However, I do own 12 android devices, I wanted a physical switch to control my zones as I come/go. The ‘presence sensors’ have not been particularly reliable for me, and sometimes internet goes out.
[I know how to control this switch over pure z-wave commands (and have done so on many similar devices professionally) and have a hardware setup for controlling most of my home’s simpler tasks even when ST hub fails due to connectivity. It’s from an older version of my HA system. But I’m no good with the more exotic code seen here. Don’t presently have time to learn, which is why I was hoping for simple, reliable hardware that I could backup with z-wave rest commands.]
And the multiswitch operated device has two issues for me;
- I want to replace my single slot wallplate, not drill new holes. This takes 2 slots of wallplate to control half as many buttons.
- That tutorial is longer than this one, and I’ve already wasted half a workday trying to get this one operational (under solid community feedback that it’s “possible”).
Funny… I didn’t think “engineer” would make such a presumption. There’s plenty of evidence in this thread that the device is more trouble than it’s worth.
I’m sorry for the little jab, but ya can’t assert your professional credentials in one post and not expect to be judged upon it.
The dashboard apps that run on the tablets are not used as presence sensors. You touch the icon on the touch screen that you want to control, just like the Things screen in the official smartthings mobile app. But it’s true they won’t work if the Internet is out.
I’ve spent 30 hours & several threads working to make this easy/popular. We aren’t there yet. It’s not only difficult, it’s fussy.
Try running the configuration tile again — from the sound of it, not all of the zwave association commands made it.
Sir, you may have missed what I was explaining; I want a multi-zone on/off switch because presence sensing is unreliable. I want to press a button to turn on the dining room when I arrive or the whole house as I’m leaving. Manually.
As I said, already pulled it out of the wall, not interested in spending more than 6 hours on a single part, which this has already cost me.
Excuse my ignorance, I am not an engineer, but if you want to switch on a specific light and off a collection of lights (scene), then you can use one switch in conjunction with a virtual switch that runs an action phrase (routine). I know you’ve mentioned that you’d like the physical switch to operate when there is no Internet, but scenes are powered by the internet, unless you have a local network or you have physically wired all of your controlled lights to that one switch. I am using the combo discribed above in my home, so if you’re interested in my set up, please PM
The problem here is twofold;
The switch doesn’t actually relay electricity to the light socket it controls (I’m not parallel-wiring the socket to be ‘hot’ even if it is a smart bulb installed,that’s unsafe).
My device failed to power-on correctly the first several attempts, actually had to relocate it to get it to come online correctly (Z-wave network was not detecting its handshakes correctly). I think there was damage to it before I plugged it in; it paired correctly, but I could not (with any of the 3 code bases in this thread I found) get the 5-7 buttons configured (the menus would not launch on the apps; I have 6 platforms using the ST app). When I configured buttons 1-4 (for press OR hold) they did not take action at all. The Z-wave rest states did not change either.
And for the record, Phillips Hue’s engine backs my lighting grid and a tasker automation handler backs that. My lighting scenes are perfectly capable of operating with no internet ever. So, yes, my design is valid. I even had at one point a 3-way lutron witch doing this very task. I resist buying another because they’re $200, and it broke in ~3 years.
I agree, there’s way too much tinkering involved right now in setting up any zwave home automation, but this particular device is just problematic.
It’s not on the official “works with” device compatibility list, and no one has added it to the list of compatible button remotes topic. as @tgauchat said, it is known in the community to be “fussy.”
(Many of us here are engineers: I am surprised that an engineer would skim this topic before purchase and not assume this device was going to be tricky. Too many obviously knowledgeable people reporting too many unresolvable problems.)
There is a huge gap in low end home automation between current offerings and real plug-and-play. It can be very frustrating.
I personally don’t spend more than 45 minutes on any device. If I can’t get it working in that time, I return it as defective. That’s just based on my personal priorities. There was a time when I would spend days tinkering with something to get it to work, but now I’d rather spend the time elsewhere.
This is not entirely true. With Z-Wave, you can create scenes and activate them without the Internet. In fact, you don’t even need SmartThings hub for that. Z-Wave network protocol supports scenes “out of the box”. All you need is a Z-Wave “Scene Controller” (e.g. a handheld remote) and “Scene Actuators” (many Z-Wave dimmers support this functionality) and you’re all set. Note that Z-Wave scenes are “native”, i.e. they’re implemented in the device firmware and do not depend on hubs or the Internet.
SmartThings does not use “native” Z-Wave scenes though. Instead, ST defines their own software scenes. The advantage of that is that you can have heterogenous devices included in the scene (i.e. a mix of Z-Wave, Zigbee, WiFi, etc.). The downside however is that they depend on the hub, the Internet and whatever bridge technology is used to communicate with WiFi devices.
Thanks for your explanation, but using the native z-wave features, without a hub, wouldn’t that make it a “local network”? Or is that not the correct terminology?
In Z-Wave (or Zigbee) terminology, there’s not distinction between “local” and “remote” networks since these protocols are not routable. Both are “mesh” network topologies.
If the ZWN-SC7 Enerwave wall switch works with SmartThings, why isn’t is listed on the things supported page? I want to be sure before I purchase it. Thanks.
If you look through these comments, you’ll see that only some of us would say it “works”. Mine work great, but I don’t think it is reliable enough to say that it is officially supported.