That’s impossible. It’s connected to a hot in another box. Either the one you have shown or the fixture. Does the circled white wire below go straight out of the box in the same bundle with the red? If so, that black wire that is wire nutted to the white is your hot/line.
The white and black wires you circled enter the box together there, and are wire nutted together. For what it’s worth, the box we’re referring to is at the top of the stairs, the single gang is at the bottom/basement. The basement was redone, all new wiring, but the box at the top of the stairs was existing hence most of the older wire you see in there, except for the black and white on the left wire nutted, and the red white black wires entering just to the right of those which are all new.
There are only two switches in this box, the one on the left which is the one being changed, controls a hanging light at the top of the stairs which was existing, as well as a couple new pot lights at the bottom of the stairs. The switch on the right controls an outdoor floodlight.
I’m not saying you’re wrong, I certainly have no clue here, but going by the GE video, and using my multimeter with the lights switched off, when I test the common (black screw) of both switches, it is the one at the bottom of the stairs that has power even when switched off…though there are other wires on the top switch that have power when turned off as well, just not on the black screw as described.
BTW Thank you for taking the time to even entertain the conversation of helping me figure this out, I really do appreciate it.
So I have to somehow get that hot wire to my new switch? The load wire will be the one currently attached to the black screw? The neutral will come from the white bundle? And the traveller either the red or black from where the hot wire is originating in the box?
Ps. If you’re right about what you identified as the hot, why is there no connection of it to the current switch? Just wondering, I have no idea.
No worries I won’t hold you to anything, but you obviously know a little more than me. What do you mean by the hot is already in my main box? Doesn’t the zooz need a hot connection? Based on what you’ve seen, what wires would connect to what on the zooz?
Ok! So progress! Got it to work! Now only thing is, I put the multimeter on the red wire and ground of the dumb switch while the lights were turned off, and this completed the circuit or something and turned them on! Both switches are grounded properly. Is this okay?
Just tested the same thing with another three way switch in my house and it did not turn those lights on as the others did. Something can’t be right
I think this is normal. This is speculation, but I believe the Zooz works by passing a current from the traveler to the neutral over the dumb switch. When it detects a state change it turns the main on/off. So do both the main and the dumb switch work?
Yes everything works as it should. It just seemed slightly disturbing that testing the one screw and ground resulted in the flow of electricity and the lights powering on, even more so when I tested a different three way circuit and the results weren’t replicated. It just seemed like this might be some sort of bad grounding, or what people warn against using grounds as neutrals or something. I really don’t know, just weary of putting everything back in the box if there’s a chance I could electrify something unknowingly with the current setup…