The big cable that bypasses the breaker is the ground. It looks like you installed it correctly, although I don’t know how stuffing it right next to the main breaker will impact it. Since it’s in the circuit box you could provide AC to it rather than depending upon the batteries.
Ok thx I moved it under the box on the outside and we will see what happens but again I am not sure if my hub even sees it even though I was able to get it to pair. May be iffy
I think it’s prudent to remind people that you are dealing with electronics here that will, without any hesitation kill you.
I see some people here not entirely clear on what they are doing, opening up boxes and working with electronics that can kill. This makes me really nervous. Please, if you’re not sure what you’re doing, ask an expert, really. A device that merely allows you to monitor your energy usage just isn’t worth it…
5 Likes
OK I know have it installed in my main panel and a sub panel with batteries only and not having a lot of luck. it has not reported anything. I guess I will need to have a few weather plugs put in off my panel for this to work properly. Good thing they were only 9.99
I can’t entirely be sure from that photo but it looks like both clamps are on the same cable. That break is two phase, black cable on the left for one, other cable on the right for the other, you need one clamp around each.
Again, not an electrician, but that’s what it looks like to me. Having both clamps on one cable would double actual readings I think.
2 Likes
yep you were right. never was good at puzzles. thanks
1 Like
I think you are correct- can’t see it that well either. If we are seeing correctly - be a real PITA to get on that one leg.
1 Like
and it was. Had to actually separate the two pieces and put them on one at a time
1 Like
My device just arrived, can I check firmware version?
Can I use this DH?
Gulp…glad you are still with us. 
Even though I’ve been in a lot of electrical boxes, I always get nervous, maybe that’s what keeps me alive!
1 Like
Trust me been into many of them also and always am VERY careful not to touch the wrong thing. I guess I did also lear that not having constant power really does nothing unless someone can tell me differently. I am pretty sure that zwave is getting to them. They just dont report anything. As a matter of fact the last time they actually spoke to the system was a few hours ago. Getting outdoor plugs put in tomorrow. That should help
You did install the device handler, right?
Yep the one that is posted above
Okay so do you have any other Z-Wave devices? How far away is the nearest one? When you paired it where was it (how close to the hub) and I assume you paired it while plugged in to AC?
Also, putting a low power radio device inside a metal box can be a problem. The radio signal from the HEM may be being blocked by the breaker box.
Thanks for your reply. I actually paired with the batteries and have moved my devices outside under the box since they are weather proof. I have a zw4201 about 30 feet from the box that can be used as a repeater. It works just fine. I guess I will just have to wait until I get permanent power
Also do you know of a way to know if it is being seen by the network?
I can agree with some of those complaints on there that GE’s customer service department can be a pain if you need to call them. The problem is the GeoSpring units and kind of an anomaly for them because it’s not a water heater in the traditional sense and it’s not an A/C unit either so the CSR’s don’t know who to transfer you to. There is a dedicated department that handles the any issues for these units it’s just hard getting transferred to them.
The thing to always remember on any online review is that far more people get motivated to write bad reviews than good ones so it’s not always a great indicator of a units performance. I also personally feel that for many things like this that are different than what a normal plumber or A/C would see just plum confuses them and they may not install it properly. I installed mine originally and uninstalled and reinstalled it myself when we moved. It’s not rocket science and no different than any other water heater install wise. The thing to also remember on these units is if the heat pump portion were to go out as did mine due to a poor factory brazing on the condenser (first gen problem long ago addressed) and the heat pump fails, the water heater defaults back to a normal electric water heater.
If I had the opportunity to buy one with a $750 credit from electric company and couple that with the $350 federal tax credit on my tax returns I certainly wouldn’t hesitate personally. Now the only case where I would potentially think twice about it would be if my unit was to be installed inside my house like in a closet or the like depending on your setup. I say this because at least with the 1st gen units there are somewhat noisy when running full blast. To hit full heat pump mode though usually only happens when we have family over and more than my normal 4 people are showering. When this happens the heat pump kinda goes into over drive to try and keep up with demand. Otherwise I don’t normally even know its there except when my electric bill comes in and it so low
1 Like
Water Heater Info.
FWIW - doesn’t the Energy Star rules now require the heat pump models above a certain size? Electric of course. I don’t follow it as I use gas, but seem to have heard that. Over 70 gallon or something.
National Grid is offering $750 rebate through January 31, and it’s good on 50 gallon units. I may just do it. A 50 gallon Rheem heat pump water heater is $999, but the rebate rules require installation by a licensed contractor so that adds to the cost.
Should be able to get a $300 fed tax rebate (if eligible) - Check your state program as well.