Z-Wave Smart Energy Meter - 9.99....Really?

Is it safe to open the breaker box? Is there a way to stop the power to it before that?

Second question first. The only way to completely cut the power to your breaker box is to remove the electric meter that’s outside your home. You’re not supposed to do that and typically they have a seal, so the utility company will know if it’s cut.

First question, yes but only if you know what you’re doing. The front cover is usually held on by 4 or 6 screws and once they are removed the front cover lifts off. If you’re careful you can absolutely do this, assuming you have a somewhat ordinary circuit box. If you like, post pics of what you have. However, if you’re at all uncomfortable then get a friend who knows what he or she is doing to help.

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Yes if you know what you can/can’t touch. If you aren’t sure, please don’t do it!

You can shut off the master breaker if there is one, then ONLY the biggest black/white cables coming into the panel will be live. Those of course are the ones you need to connect to, so due diligence is mandatory here…

Those heat pump based water heaters are nice I’ve had mine for 7 years I think it is now. It’s the 1st gen GE one, had 1 little issue with it but GE sent someone out to fix it. I like it so much when we moved 3 years ago I uninstalled it and brought it with us. Saves us tons of money.

If you have to ask - I’d say no :slight_smile: I know full well what’s what and have no issues, but advise the same as others, nope, unless you know what you are doing.

One possibility - some places require an external main shutoff, outside usually as part of the meter box or close.

I wish I had added one when I replaced the meter box 12 years ago …

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@johnconstantelo does your device handler work with the 3.64 firmware? My HEM v1 came with version 3.60 and I upgraded to the latest posted on the Aeotec site, which was 3.64:

http://aeotec.com/z-wave-home-energy-measure/1262-hem-firmware.html

Well that drove it to report some crazy kWh numbers and not refresh the power numbers. I ended up having to exclude and repair the HEM entirely and then it still didn’t work. I found this thread:

Strangely, while I was working on the issue, the HEM, still with the 3.64 firmware magically started to work correctly, or so it appears. Any idea what’s up with that?

Not wanting to derail this thread much (I brought two Aeon meters!) but I was just about to purchase the GE Geospring 50 gallon water heater that has this heat exchanger on it and I was looking for some experiences, there are some seriously negative reviews on the Lowes site…

I was thinking the same thing! Apparently it, or an older version, leaks. I think I read somewhere that they fixed it though.

Sure does! I’m using the same version as you.

Nice, thanks!

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@johnconstantelo one more question, maybe you know the answer. If I set the DH to log the power every 60 seconds, do I get the average over that past 60 seconds or a real time sample at that instant when the value is logged?

It’s the value at that instant.

Anyone notice any reporting errors? I have on that shows lower than 90watt unless I kill the breaker and i KNOW it’s not pulling more than a watt or so when not running.

SO I have no choice but to use batteries and my box is outside and there is no plug to go into. So I have to wait to get an update. To be honest not even sure that I can see the device after I put the cover on it. Is there anyway to see if my system can still see my device or do I have to wait to see if it ever reports. I also have a weird configuration in my box. I have 600 amp service at least that what the cables say. I have to main feeds coming into a 150 amp breaker and another feed coming into the main circuit box without the breaker.

None of that makes any sense. I would not worry about what is printed on the cables, it’s the breaker that’s important. Can you post a pic? Maybe the one that bypasses the breaker is the ground?

I’m wondering the same thing. I have ben playing around. I turned off my furnace, water heater, every light inside and out, the TV, still over 600 watts reported being consumed. Yesterday I got it down to 270 watts without having to trip all the breakers.

The big cable that bypasses the breaker is the ground. It looks like you installed it correctly, although I don’t know how stuffing it right next to the main breaker will impact it. Since it’s in the circuit box you could provide AC to it rather than depending upon the batteries.

Ok thx I moved it under the box on the outside and we will see what happens but again I am not sure if my hub even sees it even though I was able to get it to pair. May be iffy

I think it’s prudent to remind people that you are dealing with electronics here that will, without any hesitation kill you.

I see some people here not entirely clear on what they are doing, opening up boxes and working with electronics that can kill. This makes me really nervous. Please, if you’re not sure what you’re doing, ask an expert, really. A device that merely allows you to monitor your energy usage just isn’t worth it…

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