Wireless, Battery Operated Wall Switch

Well, I sure am glad I came across this thread. My wife is so stubborn when it comes to my Home Auto obsession. She wants physical buttons to push, so I have two secondary remotes connected. However, the Cree/GE bulbs of course are Zigbee. I just ordered the three button switch straight from the Smartenit website. Was surprised it was only $49. I can’t believe I am now using “only” when it comes to a light switch, but I have really gotten into this HA thing. I was a little disapointed in the shipping cost. I look forward to seeing more of their products on Amazon Prime :slight_smile: Thank you all for this thread. You may have saved my marriage! haha

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Please make sure you follow all the steps in the original post. Especially steps 14 through 16c. Otherwise it may not work.

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I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb wireless switch last night. Not for a lack of trying, but I could not get my STH to connect to it. I tried over and over, but finnaly broke out my old Wink Hub and it connected in a snap. How can a exceptional device like the STH v2 have such problems with Zigbee controllers, while a lesser option like the Wink have no problem? Very frustrating that I now have one bulb on my Wink hub just so I can use the switch. I sure hope the Smartenit switch brings me better luck!

Completely different issue. It’s based on existing business arrangements. WINK made the decision early on that they would have an official integration with Lutron. That’s why they work with the pico remotes as well. SmartThings chose not to pursue that relationship, probably in part to control the price point of the device.

Zigbee does not have the concept of secondary controllers in the same way that zwave does. So it’s not a standard integration. It’s something that wink and Lutron agreed to work out for themselves.

On the other hand, Smartthings has an official integration with harmony, which wink does not. Again, it’s not that wink is technologically inferior, but rather that two companies agreed between themselves to work out a direct integration.

It’s all part of brand differentiation. Each company decides where it wants to invest and what price point it wants to ultimately hit, and which features it thinks customers will want first. As customers we vote with our dollars as to whether they guessed right about the features that were important to us. And of course we can send them direct feedback through the forum topics like “suggest a device” to help encourage them to make future integration decisions in the directions that we would like to see.

@JDRoberts, wow, thank you for taking the time to explain. That was quite a response. I totally get it with the whole difference in tech between Zigbee and Z-wave. However, with most of the bulbs being Zigbee, Smartthings really should have thought more about a product such as the Lutron, which can operate the bulbs wirelessly. Even a keyfob would have been nice. I have a Securifi keyfob, but could not get it connected with my STH either. Thanks again

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Based on what others have said, if you reset your Lutron zigbee remote (not the Pico, though), you should be able to get it recognized as a zigbee “thing.” That would be enough to put it on the same network.

So you could use the Remote to toggle lights on and off which were also controlled by smartthings. The only thing is that the smartthings hub wouldn’t know when you use the remote (which Wink does) so they would get out of sync.

That can cause problems because although smartthings does poll the bulbs periodically to get their status directly from the bulbs, in between polls Smartthings might refuse to toggle the bulb because it thought the bulb was already in the state you are requesting.

It’s important it’s one of those things where one person might have the set up and be really happy with it, and another person would be totally frustrated. It really comes down to how often you try to change the bulb state and whether you are controlling bulbs in groups.

You could try and see, but you would need to reset the device before you add it to smart things.

As for the Securifi fob, if you mean the little one that’s about the size of a half-dollar, it does work very well with smartthings, but you need some community contributed code for it. There’s a link off off the list of remotes topic. And again you have to reset it before you can add it to SmartThings. With the community code, you get full “button controller” functionality, which means things don’t get out of sync. It’s a nice little device.

Where do I use this? I mean, I don’t see an option for coding.

To use this custom device types you need to cut and past them into your IDE. https://graph.api.smartthings.com/ Just create an account if you don’t have one.

Are you asking about the smartenit 3 toggle switch? There’s an FAQ for that installation it was linked to above (this is a clickable link)

If you’re asking about custom device types in general:

If you’re asking about the LUTRON connected bulb remote, I don’t think there’s a device type for it yet. It just pairs as a thing. After that I believe you can use it with zigbee bulbs that are also connected to your smartthings hub, but there’s no interaction between the remote itself and the hub.

(If you quote a small snippet of whatever you are replying to, it’s easier for everyone to follow the conversation. The discourse forum software is great for a lot of things, but it doesn’t thread replies.)

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Any chance of tweaking the Button Controller code to trigger an IFTTT script from a button? Now that would be handy!

You could do this with a virtual switch.

Button push turns on a virtual switch.
Virtual switch being turned on triggers your IFTTT recipe using the “Switched On” trigger.

Keep in mind you’d still have your standard IFTTT delay.

I’m having an odd result from these buttons. I’ve got it all paired and working as expected, until I try to use one of the buttons to dim a light 10% in Rule Machine. A single brief button-press gives five or six events and a series of debug messages in the IDE Logging.
This is with V2 ST hub - I’m wondering if the device driver needs an update?

5317b17b-3e35-4263-b199-23c8aa19c652 5:28:59 PM: info Button 2 Triggered
5317b17b-3e35-4263-b199-23c8aa19c652 5:28:56 PM: info Button 2: Buttons button pushed
9e347f5a-066b-41cb-bd96-98865d973538 5:28:59 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 59
0f7b3e78-2e92-41e3-bfc9-f1f02a89fdc2 5:28:59 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 59
8e1c44c5-790e-485b-b198-11221f8223e6 5:28:59 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 59
948dcde8-bf21-4e7f-9a18-4342190cafb1 5:28:59 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 59
9e347f5a-066b-41cb-bd96-98865d973538 5:28:58 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 69
0f7b3e78-2e92-41e3-bfc9-f1f02a89fdc2 5:28:58 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 69
8e1c44c5-790e-485b-b198-11221f8223e6 5:28:58 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 69
948dcde8-bf21-4e7f-9a18-4342190cafb1 5:28:58 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 69
9e347f5a-066b-41cb-bd96-98865d973538 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 79
0f7b3e78-2e92-41e3-bfc9-f1f02a89fdc2 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 79
8e1c44c5-790e-485b-b198-11221f8223e6 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 79
9e347f5a-066b-41cb-bd96-98865d973538 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 89
0f7b3e78-2e92-41e3-bfc9-f1f02a89fdc2 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 89
8e1c44c5-790e-485b-b198-11221f8223e6 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 89
948dcde8-bf21-4e7f-9a18-4342190cafb1 5:28:57 PM: debug setLevel >> value: 89
56e48f57-8808-4252-a228-59b2b57a4da0 5:28:56 PM: info Button 1 - 78F for One: Buttons button pushed
2f8b7d83-445d-4e80-a350-c7c438e552bb 5:28:56 PM: info Button 3: Buttons button pushed
b7c6e645-99e5-4177-a2c7-41984b82ff93 5:28:56 PM: debug Parse returned Buttons button 2 was pushed
b7c6e645-99e5-4177-a2c7-41984b82ff93 5:28:56 PM: debug Button 2 pushed
b7c6e645-99e5-4177-a2c7-41984b82ff93 5:28:56 PM: debug Parse description catchall: 0104 0006 02 01 0140 00 45A6 01 00 0000 02 00

Who wrote the device driver your using? There have been so many of us contribute to this guy I’m not sure who’s code your running.

I’m using this one by Gilbert Chan : https://github.com/obycode/smartthings-smartapps/blob/master/VirtualButtons/SmartenIt-ZBWS3B.groovy

soooooooo just to clear something up here, can each of the 3 switches/buttons on the " SmartenIT ZBWS3B " be used as like an ON/OFF switch . . . for instance could i have it setup like this:

BUTTON 1 - press to turn on light 1 / press again to turn off light 1
BUTTON 2 - press to turn on light 2 / press again to turn off light 2
BUTTON 3 - press to turn on light 3 / press again to turn off light 3

id like to put one of these at the side of my bed, and have the 3 buttons operate as follows:

BUTTON 1 - Turn On/Off the bedside lamps
BUTTON 2 - Turn On/Off the tv via virtual switch linked to harmony activity
BUTTON 3 - Turn On/Off All lights in the room

is this doable or does each button only have one command it can process as a pose to two per switch?

THIS VIDEO ANSWERED MY QUESTION:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67uWzVu6Obg

:slight_smile: - excited, now just need to find a way to get two of these shipped to the UK

Yes, each switch can be a toggle.

That said, for the UK I think I’d first look at the devolo or zwave.me battery operated zwave switches that @adamv has working with his custom device handler.

These have 4 usable buttons and lots of options.

http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-me-wall-controller-set-with-frame

just looking now and each of these only look like 2 button devices, where as this is a 3 button . . . is that correct or can each corner be used as its own on/off switch, thus making it actually 4 on/off (toggle) buttons?

Each corner is a button as shown with the cover off.

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You really are the Oracle aren’t you JD :slight_smile: what a legend, thanks mate

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I purchased the Smartenit Zigbee 3-button switch and followed the instructions here and it worked so well I just purchased another one yesterday. Today, I came across this GE Z-Wave wireless controller that appeared to do the same thing - http://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457081363&sr=8-1 . Does anyone know how this compares with the Smartenit? Thanks.